alexthornephotography

<p>Hi,<br>

I just got an F1-New and can't get the shutter-priority to work. I don't have the AE finder and didn't think I needed it for the camera to work in shutter-priority. The lens is set to A just like I would with my AE-1P. Is this camera just not working?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I'm not sure where to even begin here because there could be so many things you are doing wrong. But I know from experience using the V750 that even if you put the film holder in wrong, such as flipping it around, that will happen as well. I wonder if there is something on the bottom of the each film holder that tells the scanner what's going on. So, first thing is that the film holder is a must. I had the same thing happen when I put the wet mount in wrong once. Try the film holders first and see if that is the issue.</p>

<p>That's great Mark. I think we finally have our answer. </p>

<p>Oops, sorry about that. </p>

<p>Just checked KEH, they have one for $235 in EX condition. Hell, just get a cheap FD camera and use the damn thing.</p>

<p>That's a nice lens. I'd be interested. Check eBay for prices, or if keh.com has one in stock, check them as well. But let me know if you want to sell it. </p>

<p>And</p><div></div>

<p>Please excuse my attempts to resize for the web. But here are a few examples. </p><div></div>

<p>Frank,<br>

I use the 50 3.5nFD, 50 1.4nFD the 85nFD 1.8 and the 200 2.8 with my EOS Digital cameras and have gotten excellent results. I was really amazed at how good it worked for macro photography. I don't do a lot of macro, so I never invested in an EOS macro lens. However, the two pictures hanging in my dinning room were taken with the 50 1.4nFD with the FD to EOS adapter. I'll track them down and post them.</p>

<p>Thanks. These have all been really good responses. </p>

<p>I agree with David, more likely an issue in the development process.</p>

<p>Looks to me like those lines correspond to the thread holes. What would cause that, I haven't a clue except that I get something slightly similar when developing Fuji 1600 and very underexposed shots. So could be something in the developing stage?</p>

<p>Check out VistaPrint.</p>

<p>Here it is with sRGB applied if that helps.</p><div></div>

<p>I just wanted to get some feedback from folks here about the skin tones in this shot. Is there anything I could do to improve it? Please give detailed responses as I still have a lot to learn about color management in Photo shop.</p>

<p>Thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Jeff,<br>

I have the same problem when trying to scan 35mm negatives as well, using the negative holder not the slide holder obviously. I have to individually crop each negative. I'll be interested in the answers as well.</p>

<p>Read the earlier post, but always shoot raw and do your black and white in elements.</p>

<p>Absolutely, always shoot RAW even for black and white. You have 16 bits vs 8 bits to work with, exposure correction and all the color information to work with if you want to apply colored filter effects to your black and white image, meaning you can duplicate colored filters used for black and white film. Your tones will be smoother when working with levels and other light/contrast controls. There is just too much compression and loss of information when shooting JPEGs.</p>

<p>Hey Todd,<br>

This doesn't directly answer your question but for black and white film I finally decided that my best option was developing it myself. Very easy to do.</p>

<p>Also, it's always good to keep the color information of a RAW file even if you are using B&W picture controls on your camera. Elements 6 under Enhance has a "convert to Black & White" option where you can control the red, green and blue channels, similar to the effect you would get from using color filters on your black and white film to fine tune your pictures. Also, learn how to use levels, and the Shadows/Highlights feature to work on the dark and light areas of your photos.</p>

<p>You should be fine then, but shoot in raw, not jpg. I use Elements 6 and it has the ability to edit RAW files. Or, you should be able to convert your RAW files to tiffs and edit. But stay away from jpegs. I'm sure others with more experience with this will be chiming in soon.</p>

<p>A book that helped me was, "Digital Black and White Printing," by George Schaub.</p>

<p>There's nothing wrong with the software. How are you capturing your shots? Are you talking about scanning film to digital or shooting with a digital camera? If your talking about using a digital camera, are you shooting in RAW? I think we need more information on what you are using to capture your image before answering your question.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I agree with everything said. That being said, it does put added pressure on paid photographers to be that much better then everyone else. And, there are some really good non-paid photographers out there. You have to admit that it is also starting to change business models. Just my 2 cents.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>David,<br>

I went to:<br>

Ray's Camera Repair, 1214 Santa Fe Dr. 303-595-3213. I moved to the Washington, DC area last year and wish I had a repair shop that was as good as his. Very honest. I've brought in more than one camera for a CLA that he said wasn't necessary.</p>