bruce_mattes

<p>The photo.net insurance thread got me to thinking along the following lines, so I decided to start this thread..</p>

<p>I am a photographer that currently has no plans on selling any of his work..I do not feel that my images are up to the standards necessary for commercial sales..I also have no plans on ever working for pay as a photographer..To do so for me would take the casualness and joy out of what I consider a hobby..To pursue photography for money would require a completely different mindset..One which I currently have no intentions of adopting..</p>

<p>I pose the following questions to those photographers here on PN that earn their living by photography..</p>

<p>Do amateur photographers become professional photographers in the eyes of the law as soon as they receive payment for that first photograph?..Do their responsibilities and liabilities change at that moment?..Do they start needing a different kind of insurance policy?..Do they put their families, home,jobs, businesses at risk by selling images for money?..At what point does an amateur photographer morph into a professional photographer?.</p>

<p>I am not asking about the quality of one's photography as regards to their level of professionalism..This is another topic entirely..I am simply asking these questions from a legalistic point of view..</p>

<p>Thanks for your input..</p>

<p>Bruce</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Let us presuppose that a photographer wants to scan traditional B&W films such as Tri-X and HP5 in 6x7 format..</p>

<p>Would the more experienced members here please list the scanners most suitable for this purpose that will yield the best results??..</p>

<p>Do not let the type of scanner (drum, flatbed, dedicated film, Imacon), nor the scanner's price factor into the equation..</p>

<p>I understand that the competence of the scanner operator plays an important role in achieving first-class results, especially with drum scanners; so for the purposes of my questions let us assume that the scans will be made by an experienced operator..</p>

<p>I intend to travel down the medium format road shooting primarily black & white film sometime in the near future..</p>

<p>Scanning these types of films will be an important factor for me..</p>

<p>I am willing to purchase a used drum scanner and to spend the time learning how to use it if that is the best choice..</p>

<p>Thanks to any members answering my questions..</p>

<p>Bruce</p>

<p>Rose</p>

<p>Scientists now estimate that as much as 25% of the Canada geese population no longer migrate, but instead are year round residents..</p>

<p>Here in Maryland these year-round formerly migratory ducks and geese are a huge problem, as I suspect that they are elsewhere..</p>

<p>In Ocean City, Maryland, where I lived for several years the feces from these birds covers virtually every square inch of the grass in the parks and playgrounds..</p>

<p>Special measures have to be implemented in order for summer sports teams to utilize the fields..</p>

<p>Film is not dead..</p>

<p>Film cameras have magic inside of them..Digital cameras do not..</p>

<p>Both types of cameras require the same amount of thought, technique, and talent in order for a photographer to produce a high-quality image that has the capability to WOW!! its viewer..</p>

<p>The cost of film is actually less when <strong>ALL</strong> factors are considered and weighed..</p>

<p>Film bodies used daily have lifespans measured in multiple decades, usually 3-7..With regular CLA's, of course..Digital bodies and backs that are used daily have lifespans that average, at most, 5-10 years..CLA's for digital are generally not cost effective, or in many cases not available..According to the informal data that I have accumulated, most digital photographic tools used daily wear out between 3-5 years after purchase..</p>

<p>Digital cameras are more convenient..They offer an immediacy that no film camera can..They encourage poor photographic technique by virtue of that convenience and immediacy..</p>

<p>Film has never been what could be termed convienient, especially compared to digital..As long as there were local, easy-to-access labs that could process film at medium-to-high quality levels, the relative inconvenience of film was acceptable..Especially, when there were no other alternatives..</p>

<p>To try and achieve the same colors and WOW!! factors in a print that a good color film, such as Velvia, has with a digital capture requires a stunningly huge investment in time, skill, and money..</p>

<p>When you add up the costs for the FF digital camera; the best lenses to accompany that camera; the multiple computers; the best large-screen, high-resolution monitors; the monitor calibrating software and hardware; the various post-processing software packages (usually 3-5, sometimes more); the high-end inkjet printers, the custom calibrating RIP's and other software for these printers; the custom ink sets for these printers; the high-end, high-quality papers required for a near silver gelatin realistic print; and all of the other ancillary hardware, software, and materials that I have not mentioned; one ends up with a price tag that rapidly approaches 200K..</p>

<p>I an not talking about your average inkjet print that simply looks good..I am talking here about inkjet prints done by a master printer that attempt to equal and fool the viewer into believing that they are a silver gelatin print done by an equally masterful wet darkroom printer..Two prints that viewed side-by-side would require close examination to tell the difference..</p>

<p>This is the Holy Grail the all digital photographers are striving for..For the amount of money required to duplicate a high-quality silver gelatin print with a start-to-finish digital capture system, one can purchase , used and new, an entire film camera / lens/ wet darkroom / film / chemicals / paper setup..And, afford to shoot an extraordinarily large amount of film, as well as process that film oneself..</p>

<p>What it will not be is as convenient, nor as immediate, as the digital system in the capture part of the equation..</p>

<p>The two systems are not mutually exclusive..I have both..I prefer film, especially for black and white, which is my true passion..</p>

Great photos from a simple camera!

"When is a chair not a chair?"..

Doug

I have had light frostbite on my hands several times, so riding when the temps drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit is painful without proper gloves..I found that the ONLY thing that makes winter riding pleasurable are my Gerbings electric gloves..I tape the thermostat to the side of a water bottle cage that is mounted just inboard of the left controls..When it gets REALLY cold I pull on a pair of lightly insulated GoreTex mitten shells over the gloves which have ShoeGoo spread on the palms & thumb for a sure grip..Have ridden when the wind chill was -30 degrees Fahrenheit without ANY discomfort..YMMV

For my feet I wear SmartWool socks inside of a pair of lightly insulated ankle boots..Over the boots I wear a pair of the NEOS (New England Overshoe Company) Adventurer Overboots, which I purchased from Aerostich..They look clunky as can be & I have been made fun of by countless Harley riders..They add, IMO, AT LEAST 20-30 dergees Fahrenheit of additional warmth over riding with your boots exposed to the wind & cold..They are waterproof & seam sealed..I have walked in puddles 10" deep without any moisture penetrating to my boots.. Practicality reigns..

Once your hands & feet are warm, everything else becomes much more manageable..With the Darien jacket & its liner; and the Darien Light pants coupled with the Wind Block fleece pants I have seldom ever been cold..Most times I get cold because of under dressing for that day's anticipated temperatures..Layering long underwear & NOT wearing street clothes over the long underwear is KEY to not constricting one's circulation..Most of my trips & rides are under 1.5-2 hours so my experiences might not work for extended trips..

Bruce..

Doug--

I've got just over 100,000 miles on my Darien coat & pants since I purchased them in 1999..Mine need a trip to Aerostich for repairs soon..I agree that their gear is top-notch & well thought out..I use mine all year long as I do not own a 4-wheeled vehicle..My coat & pants have kissed the pavement at least 15 times since I purchased them, most of the time at speeds under 10 mph..You really learn how to ride, & how your bike handles when you are forced to ride in all kinds of weather, especially snow & ice..I rode to work during the Nor'easter of 2005 & never had a drop of water enter through the fabric..A little down my neck, but very little..Aerostich gear is the best..Leather has its place, but for my money, I'll take the Aerostitch for three season riding, & switch to my Joe Rocket perforated & armored synthetic gear for hot weather..

Regarding the Cirkut, can you use the 70mm bulk film currently for sale in the camera?..Just curious what film stocks are available for modern photographers to use in this amazing camera?..

Bruce

Doug--

I've been using the Fugly Yellow Darien Jacket, the black Darien Light pants, & various other pieces of Aerostich gear since 1999..When I got the Fall Supplement catalog in the mail the other day I saw the ad for the photos & immediately recognized your name in the text..

My dream is to someday own a BMW with a sidecar..

Great job!..

Bruce

Here is my take for what it is worth..

I have always thought that "street" photography was outdoor, available light photography practiced primarily in towns & cities that generally included the face of at least one human being..This type of candid photograph was taken to highlight the facial expressions & body language of the person(s) in the photo..These facial expressions & the accompanying body language were in & of themselves telling a story..If the photographer chose not to show the face of the person being photographed, then the body language of the person along with the lighting captured in the print told a compelling story..For me, at least, street photography symbolizes a dynamic, fluid type of candid photography that showcases the entire gamut of human emotions ranging from extreme joy all the way to extreme despair..

Can compelling architectural photographs without people in them be considered street photographs?..That is a much harder question to answer..I tend to think not, although there are many photographers such as Atget that can assuredly capture my attention..

Bruce

We live in a consumer-driven economy that does not want any limits, self-imposed or otherwise, on its acquisition

of material goods..

The average consumer, homeowner, head of family owns an exponentially greater number of labor-saving devices that

frees up time in their daily lives for activities that are not concerned with everyday survival..This is very

different from what our parents & grand parents experienced..

Most people have a finite budget with which to purchase goods & services..Even for those who choose to live on

borrowed money, there is usually a finite point beyond which further spending is just not possible..

In order for modern day consumers to be able to fill their lives with all of the material possessions that they

would like to own, it is necessary to obtain those goods & services at the lowest possible price..

If the local brick-and-mortar store is selling a good, or a service, at a higher price than an online vendor

offering the same good or service; then the majority of knowledgeable consumers will elect to purchase that good

or service from the online vendor instead of at the local store..Service is usually the last thing the average

consumer thinks about..Obtaining the lowest price so that they can own everything that they desire is usually

paramount in their thoughts..

As competition has increased between the online vendors & the local brick-and-mortar stores the knowledge of the

salespeople in these stores has in many instances declined..Couple this lack of knowledge with higher prices, &

people abandon the local merchant for the online store..

Those local stores surviving & thriving are usually successful due to knowledgeable staff, prices that are

reasonably comparable to the major online vendors, & a willingness to provide exemplary service..

A lot of businesses are starting to penalize consumers that purchase online when they bring an item into their

shops for service or repair..They feel, & justifiably so, that if you do not want to patronize their business for

anything other than their ability to service or repair an item that was purchased online for the lowest possible

price; then that consumer can pay a little more for these services..Whether or not this proves to be a successful

long-term

business stragety, remains to be seen..All I know is that this type of policy is becoming more prevalent where I

live on the East Coast..

More & more consumers are starting to wake up to the fact that purchasing a product or service online from an

unknown vendor is not always in their long-term best interests..And, that spending a little more to have a local

business that can service or repair something quickly is often a distinct advantage..

Bruce

Thanks for all the answers..

I should have been more explicit when typing my question..

Due to the overwhelming opinions on PN regarding the need for tripods of a certain weight to tame mirror slap &

shutter curtain vibrations, I had not considered using a P67 as Mr. Sunley pictures above..

I was thinking more as using a tabletop tripod as a brace against buildings & other static objects, as Mr. Watson

suggests..

Thanks to Mr. Vener, Mr Watson, Mr. Neupert, & Mr. Sunley for letting me know that regular tabletop usage with

the p67 cameras is possible..

Bruce

For those who regularly use the Pentax 67 or 67II cameras I'm curious to know if you ever carry & use a small

tabletop tripod when carrying a larger tripod is simply not in the works..As opposed to carrying & using a

monopod, for instance..

Thanks, Bruce

Nice shots!..Dramatic, but dangerous..

A 100 pound yearling black bear has the musculature & strength to seriously hurt & or kill adult men weighing in

excess of 250 pounds..Fully grown black bears are capable of doing much more damage..The blessing for humans is

that the black bear is, generally speaking, not an aggressive predator towards other animals its own size..It's

true that wild black bears that have limited & or no contact with humans are generally easily scared off by

aggressive behavior..That being said, I would never bet my safety or my life on scaring ANY wild animal,

especially one with the ability to easily maim or kill me..

I spent two years living in Alaska & 5 years living in Washington State between 1976 & 1983, with several dozen

encounters with black bears during that time..Those encounters convinced me that a .44 Remington Magnum

single-action revolver containing handloads with hard-cast heavy lead bullets would be the minimum sized handgun

I would wish carry for self-defense against an angry black bear..I came to this conclusion after reviewing my

shooting abilities with a handgun (at the time I was a very good shot), & after talking to both hunters & guides

that hunted black bears with handguns loaded with cartridges ranging from the .357 Magnum up to the .454 Casull

(at the time the most powerful commercially-loaded handgun cartridge available ..

Most states east of the Mississippi have been successful in bring the black bear back from the brink of

extinction..As these populations of bears continue to rise, it is inevitable that close encounters between humans

& bears will end up with people being maimed & or killed..The average person today has a great disconnect between

themselves & nature..This is due in large part to people being afraid of the wild outdoors..In addition, far too

many are getting their information regarding the outdoors & animals from television & the movies, as opposed to

personal first-hand experience..I personally know more than one person that I consider to be an otherwise

intelligent human being; that is completely clueless when it comes to the outdoors, especially wild animals..Even

when these people watch informational shows on Discovery, or Wild Planet, they tend, more often than not, to

dismiss the dangers of encountering wild animals as they are presented on these kinds of shows..Most of the men,

& a lot of the women, think that these animals are being presented as dangerous simply to make for dramatic

programming..

And, please don't get me started regarding the stupidity of people feeding wild bears "Because they look so

cute!", or so that they can entice the bears into staying in one place long enough for them to photograph the

animal..

Bruce

If I use the Search box I generally get more than 1 page of 10 links or PN threads as a result of my search..

After clicking onto & reading what was posted on any thread that is not amongst the 10 responses listed on the

first page; PN's software always sends me back to the first page of 10 responses, regardless of what page I

happen to be clicking onto threads from..

Before I installed the latest version of Firefox, this only happened on the second page..

Once I gravitated to the third page the PN software would send me back to the thread that I had clicked onto to

read..

I use the Back button on the Firefox toolbar to escape out of a link or thread that I am finished reading..

Is the problem in my computer, with the PN software, or something procedurally that I am doing wrong?..

I am not the savviest person when it comes to computers..

Thank you for your help..

Bruce

Thank for the responses..

I am recently returning to 35mm film photography after almost a 30 year layoff..Although I first started posting

& asking questions here on PN over a year ago, my return to film photography has been delayed for a number of

reasons..

I should have mentioned that I am primarily interested in black & white photography..Color generally represents

less than 10% of what I expose over the course of the year..Does shooting almost all B&W film have any effect as

regards to stacking filters on the above mentioned lenses?..

I am interested in switching to the Canon F-1N body, the Speed Finder FN, the AE Power Winder FN, & the lenses

listed above for fast-paced, available-light, primarily (but, not always) hand-held cityscapes & street photography..

In the past I have been exclusively a Pentax person, but the no longer manufactured Pentax lenses that

approximate the Canon one's that I mentioned above are so far out of my price range as to be unobtainable..

The filters that I can see myself using will be clear UV filters, neutral density filters, black & white contrast

filters, & occasionally star filters at night..

Thanks again,

Bruce

Can anyone tell me the number of filters that can be stacked on the FDn lenses?..

I'm interested, to one degree or another, in most of the lenses ranging from the 14mm f2.8L up to the 300mm f2.8L..

In specific, I'm interested in the 14mm f2.8L, the 24mm f1.4L, the 35mm f2.0, the 50mm f1.2L, the 85mm f1.2L,

the 135mm f2.0, the 200mm f2.8, & the 300mm f2.8L lenses..

Any info will be greatly appreciated..

Thanks, Bruce

I tend to agree with those who advocate caution in carrying a handgun while in the woods..

Although I don't currently own any large caliber handguns, at one time I did & was fairly proficient with them..

The motor skills & hand-to-eye coordination needed to shoot a large caliber handgun accurately under range

conditions with little or no stress FAR exceed those needed to accurately fire a rifle under the same exact

conditions..The skills needed to shoot the rifle under range conditions usually, but not always, exceed those

needed to accurately shoot a shotgun under the same conditions..When the stress of combat against another human

is added to the equation, then all bets are off as to ANY accurately aimed hits reaching the target; unless the

shooter is an exceptional shot, or has faced combat previously..The same holds true for facing down a dangerous

wild animal that has the capacity to kill you..Fear mixed with adrenaline makes for a dangerous situation if a

well-aimed shot is absolutely needed to save one's life..

The old time shootist Elmer Keith, who shot hundreds of thousands of rounds of ammunition through large caliber

revolvers, maintained in his later years that the majority of those who depended upon a handgun for their safety

should shoot at least 50 rounds a day, at least 5 days a week to maintain a high proficiency with ANY handgun..He

stressed that this should be done for however long they were anticipating the need to carry a handgun.. All elite

forces shoot EVERY day that they can in order to train & hone their shooting skills to the highest possible

levels..They also have the advantage of shooting houses & ranges that simulate the noise & stresses of combat

conditions so that the training is as realistic as possible..

A handgun that is capable of dropping a grizzly bear in it's tracks is going to require a tremendous amount of

shooting in order to master the recoil; even for someone that is already an incredibly good shot with, say a Colt

1911A1 .45 caliber semi-automatic pistol..The bear guides that I spoke with in Alaska during the 2 years that I

lived there told me that they carried rifles that were capable of breaking a bear's shoulder..They said that if a

client shot poorly or panicked, their goal was to first break one or both shoulders so that the bear was

incapable of attacking them, & then to worry about a killing shot...

The only shot that I'm aware of that would allow a shooter with a large bore handgun to instantly kill a bear is

a brain shot..Unfortunately, all bears & especially grizzly bears, have thick skulls that slope dramatically

along the sides & fronts of their skulls..If the bullet strikes anyplace except through the nose, there is a very

good chance that the bear will end up only being stunned & not killed..For an absolutely sure brain shot the

shooter MUST place the shot through the bear's nose so that it will penetrate through the thinnest & weakest part

of the skull in order to reach the brain..This IS NOT an easy thing to do..

A Bowen Classic Arms custom Ruger Blackhawk 5-shot revolver with a Bisley grip chambered for the .45 Long Colt

cartridge that was powerfully loaded with a heavy bullet would be the absolute minimum that I would want to carry

in bear country..Other, more powerful cartridges are also available to choose from..The Remington .44 Magnum IS

NOT one of the cartridges that I would choose as bear protection..I'd want to shoot every other day for AT LEAST

6 months, if not longer, before I'd risk my life on my ability to kill a bear with such a handgun as described

above..In my current physical condition I would need to lose weight, get into better physical shape, & seriously

weight train in order for my wrists, arms, & back to be able to withstand the sustained recoil that such training

would entail..Even if I was in great shape right now I would limit myself to low power rounds for at least the

first several months just to acclimatize my body to shooting such a powerful handgun..From speaking to several

people that have owned such handguns I understand that even the burliest men can't shoot more than 5-10 full

power rounds per shooting session from a revolver chambered for cartridges at this level before sustaining

long-term repetitive motion injuries as a result of the massive recoil that these weapons produce..

There is MUCH more to carrying & using a handgun for protection from human & animal predators than first meets

the eye..IMO, anyone that carries a handgun about for protection has an absolute duty to both themselves & to

society at large to master shooting the weapon under range conditions..They should shoot every week to maintain

that proficiency..If you don't want to do this, for whatever reasons, then I say put the handgun away & don't

carry it about..

Bruce

Don't be afraid to go by yourself..As others have said be prepared..

This includes being as physically fit as possible..Fitness is seldom mentioned in these forums..Virtually every

accident or error in judgment that has occurred to me in the outdoors has been exacerbated by being less fit than

I should have been..In many instances, the accident itself was the direct result of a lack of fitness..Many times

a lack of fitness will lead directly to an error in judgment..

That being said, I ALWAYS carry a basic survival kit with me REGARDLESS of the terrain being hiked, the time of

year, the distance being hiked from immediate help, & whether or not I choose to hike alone or with others..

My basic kit is as follows & is contained in the bottom compartment of a small day pack:

1- polypropylene long-sleeved undershirt---

1- polypropylene long john bottoms---

1- polypropylene balaclava face mask---

1- spare pair(s) of socks for the time of year & the boots that I'm wearing (multiple pairs if I'm layering socks)---

1- pair of polypropylene gloves---

1- pair of synthetic leather gloves that will comfortably fit over the polypropylene gloves---

1- high-quality light-weight rain suit with billed hood, full-length zippered legs, & zippered underarm & back

vents---

1- high-quality folding knife with a 3-4" locking blade that will reliably stay locked open & that is kept RAZOR

sharp---

1- small 1/4" x 4" x 2" diamond sharpening stone---

1- self-coiling wire saw with rings on the ends for handles (diamond impregnated rules here, but is expensive)---

1- waterproof match safe with a supply of waterproof matches---

1- small waterproof container with a screw-top lid containing 20 or so cotton balls soaked in Vaseline---

1- of those fire starters that will cause lots of sparks when struck with the back of the folding knife---

1- jumbo-sized container of plain dental floss (for making small diameter cordage)---

1- small container containing variously-shaped needles for sewing fabric & a small awl with an antler handle---

1- bundle of parachute cord measuring 100-200 feet long (amount carried depends on how far from help I'm hiking)---

1- small roll of duct tape (can be used for many things, including holding wounds together)---

1- small high-quality personal water purifier with a fresh filter---

1- small, but complete first aid kit, including needles & sutures along with liquid sutures---

4-12 energy bars sealed in foil & plastic (I look for ones that cause the least amount of constipation)

I generally carry at least 2 1-liter bottles filled with water when I hike along with any camera equipment & the

food that I anticipate needing for the duration of that particular hike..

Bruce

Does anyone know if it would be advisable to purchase either an 82mm extra wide clear UV filter (95mm front

thread diameter); or the Heliopan 82-95mm step-up ring & just purchase 95mm filters to use with this lens?..

Can I assume that the use of 95mm filters would allow at least two (hopefully 3-4) threaded filters to

be stacked before any vignetting occurs?..

I,m not concerned with the cost of the 95mm filters, just the possible effectiveness of using them instead of

82mm filters on the P67 45mm f4.0 lens..

Can anyone speak to the image degradation when using a polarizing filter with the P67 45mm lens?..

Is it advisable to spend the cash for the best circular polarizers from Heliopan for use with the 45mm?..

Thanks, Bruce

Himalayas by Yoshikazu Shirakawa..

First published in 1971..A large coffee table size book that came in a hard slip case that had a genuine ivory

button & leather thong affixed to the case to close the case up..

Considering that several years were spent at extreme altitude in what was then a very remote part of the world

with virtually none of the creature comforts that are taken for granted today, it stands, IMO, as one of the

greatest achievements of all time as regards landscape photography..

When you consider the quality of the color film stocks available in the late 60's & early 70's, the difficulty of

shooting in extreme cold, & the difficulty of preserving the exposed film until development could take place; the

end results are even more remarkable..

Then, factor in that Mr. Shirakawa primarily used a first-generation Pentax 6x7 medium format camera, & my

respect for his achievements only increases..

He traveled both on foot on & flew in a small plane over some of the remotest & most rugged terrain that our

planet has to offer in order to capture the images that are displayed in the book..

I first saw this book in late June of 1979 after I mustered out of the U.S. Army..I viewed it in a small branch

of the Seattle Public Library..I must have stared at the photographs in this book for at least 2-3 hours the

first time I looked at it..I returned many times over the subsequent weeks, finally wearing the librarian down

into allowing me to check the book out..

It was then & still is a very expensive book..The quality of the color plates in the book is simply astounding..

I recently had the opportunity to view all three editions of this book..I can state without doubt that the color

plates in the original are far better than the two subsequent editions..Neither of the later two books are poor

quality..It's just that the quality of the printing in the first edition is so good that I again felt as if I was

being pulled into the photographs..

Twenty-nine years after first viewing this book I stand by my statement that it is one of the finest landscape

photography books of all time..The early morning sunrise & late evening sunset photos have colors so compelling

that they almost make you want to cry..

I you ever have a chance to view this book, especially the 1971 first edition, take it..You won't regret it..

Bruce

I have an acquaintance that really loves M42 screw-mount cameras & is trying to get me interested in them as a

low-cost alternative to Pentax K-mount & digital cameras..

I know nothing about these cameras..Of the available cameras on the used market today, which ones have the best

reputation for reliability, durability, & functionality?..Which are the most popular, which I realize might not

translate into the previous three qualities..Which do you use & why..Can I assume that if I purchase any of these

older cameras that a CLA is in order?..

Thanks for your input..

Bruce

Thanks for all the answers..

Galen--Does HP5 Plus come in 100 ft. lengths?..If so, can you name a source?..How difficult is it to bulk load film?..

Bruce