kohanmike

<p>I've bought all kinds of factory refurbs, Nikon cameras, computers, printers and I've never had a problem with any of them.</p>

<p>I guess my only question is; WHY? Unless you're going to continue to use a Nikon body at the same time.</p>

<p>Macintosh computers come with an application called Preview to view most all image formats as well as PDFs. It has an Inspector that shows the shutter count of the camera when viewing photos from that camera.</p>

<p>I've seen lenses sold in plain boxes at Samy's Camera here in Los Angeles that are Nikon factory refurbs, 90 day warranty, would you be talking about those?</p>

<p>I had the 70-300 Dx and found it to be excellent, all the way out to 300. I guess there might be some vociferous people who had a bad copy, but mine was great. I actually traded it in for a Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 OS and Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 OS with a 1.4x teleconverter when the prices came down.</p>

<p>To clarify your wording, it would not be called a software cable, the cable is one item, the software is another item, they're used together to do the reset. As was said, most likely the cable is USB.</p>

<p>First question to ask is why is the person selling the D750. You could also ask for the serial number of the camera and check with B&H when it was sold and if it's grey market, or see if it's on a stolen list anywhere online. But with the loose way CraigsList handles posts, you might not want to trust it all and check for a good used D750 at B&H or Adorama or KEH.</p>

<p>Since you don't have a macro lens, use the 70-300, probably set somewhere around 150mm or higher.</p>

<p>No one has suggested reformatting the Sandisk card in the 5200, why not do that too? Adorama is my go to store, bought refurbs from them that work just fine.</p>

<p>My only experience with Nikon repair was as a walk in for my Coolpix 950 about 10 years ago when they had a facility in Woodland Hills, CA, about a 40 minute drive from me at the time. They were very receptive and did the repair quickly and efficiently.</p> <p>Recently they moved from their Torrence location to Wilshire Blvd., just a 4 minute ride. I've been thinking about bringing over one of my out of warranty D300s bodies that I dropped a few months ago to give it a once over, but I'm a bit reluctant with the recent posts about Nikon service.</p>

<p>Macs all comes with the Image Capture application that will tether to Nikon, which can click the shutter, show you the images and download them to a pre-chosen folder.</p>

<p>I dropped my D300s with a Sigma 50-150 OS attached, the sharpest lens I've ever used. The lens didn't focus properly after that so I sent it to Sigma and they repaired it, but it's never been the same since. I'm going to take the camera to Nikon, just a mile a way from me, to see if it needs a fix.</p>

<p>It was not wide enough for the overhead shot from a walkway above a rehearsal.</p><div></div>

<p>I got my Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 when I had to shoot a concert in a very shallow venue where I couldn't get back far enough with my 17mm.</p><div></div>

<p>When I use lithium batteries in my SB00, they last much longer and it recycles much faster. In fact, in any device I have, lithiums last much longer; remote controls, wireless mics, preamps in my ukuleles, definitely.</p>

<p>I bought one D70s and two D300s refurbs and all never had a problem.</p>

<p>Lots and lots of them, and still will be negligent often.</p>

<p>I have a Canon LiDE 210 scanner that does an excellent job and fairly fast. It's less than $100 US.</p>

<p>Oops, yes, "Does NOT" boy, I make those kinds of errors all the time. Still can't proof read well enough.</p>

<p>I'm with William, you must have made the order late on Saturday, B&H does process or ship orders from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, they observe the Jewish Sabbath and I've always seen a disclaimer pop-up that orders have to be made and will be processed after sundown Saturday evening, which as far as I know, cannot be realistically be processed and delivered for Sunday.</p>

<p>The choices are either the 17-50 f/2.8 Tamron or Sigma zooms, matched up with in my experience, the Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 OS. I have been using this combination with D300s bodies about 5 years for pro event and concert work. I know there will be comments that the 50-150 OS is the same size as the 70-200, but the 50-150 is lighter and less costly, and it's the best lens I've ever touched. These will give you the long standing pro range 24-200 equivalent, actually 25.5-225.</p>

<p>Going by the subjects you mention, I think a wider angle lens would be the choice. I like the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 and it's under $600. On a D7100, it's like a 16-24 full frame. Buildings might need a perspective control lens, but those are expensive.</p>

<p>I've used Nikon cameras since 1973, 30 years with F2 photomic bodies and lenses, then D70s, now D300s and strobes. The only time I needed repair work was for a Coolpix 995, which Nikon fixed better than new within a week. (I'm very happy Nikon repair moved within 1/2 mile of me in Los Angeles, but so far, no need.)</p>

<p>To add to that, the 35mm has an Fx equivalent of a 52.5mm, the 40mm is like a 60mm. Not to confuse the issue, but when I was shooting 35mm film many years ago (Fx), I preferred to use a 35mm lens to get a more realistic eyes view of the subject, I always found 50mm to be a little narrow for the way the eye sees. If you think you might do that, then a 24mm lens on Dx would be like a 36mm on Fx.</p>

<p>One time that stands out for me is when I was shooting posed shots of a quartet singing group in a side room from where they were performing. Some of their relatives and friends were standing around and as I was lining up the four, one of the friends kept interrupting, saying they should pose over here or over there. It got so annoying that I turned to her and abruptly said, "who's the photographer here, you or me?" It certainly shut her up, but I also realized that I need to be more courteous and never did it again.</p>