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debejyo

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Posts posted by debejyo

    Rollei IR disaster

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    Yes, I'm certain. This is not my first IR neg in the same setup. Nothing apart from the box of film is different.

     

     

    Are you certain the developing tank and all your blackout materials are totally opaque to IR? Many 'black' plastic tanks will allow IR through like a sieve.

     

    The only reliable material for developing IR film is stainless steel.

    Rollei IR disaster

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted · Edited by debejyo

    I bought my second box of Rollei IR (4x5). The first box went fine, though I hated the thickness of the sheet. They are thin and flimsy and consequently very hard to load into the film holders and then the developing tank.

     

    The second box was a disaster. I got it from B&H. It came exposed! I developed (normally) one right out of box and the density was 1.24, uniform across the whole sheet! Every sheet was that way. I realized it the hard way since I already did a photo trip with that box without testing. But again, who thought of testing a black sheet before starting the trip!

     

    The quality concern is big. The notch are not cut clean, the sheets are thin, and not an exposed box. I have no idea what Rollei is up to.

     

    On the up side, B&H is accepting my return, but what about the investment for the trip with no IR photos! That cannot be replaced, sadly.

     

    I thought I'd add that the film is new, bought on Nov 2nd and Exp was not till 2020.

    Colorchecker passport with Adobe Premiere Pro CS6

    in Video

    Posted

    <p>Hello folks,<br>

    I am used to using colorchecker passport to calibrate my photos in photoshop (camera raw). However, I have no idea what to do when it comes to video. Can I use the colorchecker passport camera profile in Premere Pro somehow? Any tips are welcome.<br>

    Thanks. (I'm new to video editing.)</p>

    Exif time stamp (windows) different from as seen in camera (D800e)

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Thanks Andrew and Shun. That all makes sense. I was shooting on a continuous mode, so it was buffering. My exposures were short (1/60 or faster) and my slowest card was 95 Mbps. Anyway, I'll ignore what windows says. I'll just extract the exif information and rely on it. Now at least the truth is verified.<br /> If it is relevant to anyone reading this, I just discovered that the exif also contians a subsecond time, to the 1/100 ths of second, but it appears that D800e records it to the nearest 1/10 ths of a second.</p>

    Exif time stamp (windows) different from as seen in camera (D800e)

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Hi Folks,<br /> I am reading the time stamp of an image on my camera, and comparing the time stamp in exif (windows right click properties). The time stamps differ by about 10s. The camera is obviously accurate (I verified that by clicking an image at an exact time). How does the camera display the correct time but my computer cannot? How can I get to the correct time on my computer?<br /> Thanks.<br>

    Edit: I noticed that reading the exif in Photoshop (after saving as TIFF from NEF) shows the correct time in File>File Info. </p>

    Will shoot 4x5 on Alaska cruise --- any suggestions?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi Pros,<br>

    I am potentially going to be on an Alaska cruise in July. I am taking 4x5 Cambo. I have sorbothane and snow shoes for my tripod. So I guess vibration insulation is taken care of. It would be of great help if someone shares their experience and lets me know what I should have in terms of films. I generally shoot Ektar 100 and Tmax 100. Also, I have 90mm and 210mm lenses. Its my first cruise. I have no idea what to expect and what I should be prepared for (tentatively --- as I know surprises will be there). There will be a couple of days on land too. Please advise.<br>

    Thanks.</p>

    Color issues on Epson V750M --- need help

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>I have recently started with 4x5. I shoot color negs (Kodak Ektar 100 color negs) and get it developed in a lab. When I scan them on my Epson V750M, I cannot seem to reproduce the colors at the scanner level. I have been provided a target slide, print and the corresponding values (or whatever is needed to do calibration). I understand that there is no target for a negative scan. What do I do to get around this problem? I use their scanning tool and the auto-correction sucks. I am really getting tired of getting a crappy scan and then trying to adjust the channel to generate something that would even look close to reality. I have been using the slide target that was provided, thinking it would at least help me get close. I get a cyan cast on the whole image. I really need some help.<br /> If you use this same scanner, please let me know what exactly you do using what software, etc. I would really like to spend less time with the computer and more time with the camera. I scan to 16bit TIFF and use photoshop CS4. Regarding the black and whites, I generally scan it at low contrast (to avoid clipping) and then fix it on the computer. That is much easier than colors to do. <br /> Thanks a ton for your help.<br>

    Also, any tips about dust handling? Tired of cloning.</p>

    cause of under-dense film

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>I got some ektar 100 and tmax 100 back from the lab and they all are underexposed quite severly (may be 2-3 stops). Its very unlikely that I would have messed up because I have not messed up in a long time now. Is there a way to figure out if the lab under developed the films? These are 4x5 in case you are curious.<br>

    Just to let you know, I think that the border of the films are not very clear. They look quite foggy to me. That was my hint. Does anyone have an idea?<br>

    Thanks.</p>

    New To Large Format -- Help Me Choose a Camera

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Check in KEH for the price. I bought an excellent cambo from them for $250.<br>

    If you are on a budget, use your digital camera for a light meter. It works perfectly for me as long as thre is not too little light. In that case, take a picture, use histogram to check exposure and of course don't forget to compensate for reciprocity failure on film.<br>

    Use 4x5. Forget 8x10. <br>

    My preferred films are TMAX 100, Velvia 100 and portra 100 for its ultra fine grain.<br>

    Good luck.<br>

    </p>

    Question about the 18-200

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I am concerned about the </p>

    <h1>Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Autofocus Lens for Select Digital SLR</h1>

    <p>The zoom drops out if I lower the camera and it sits back if I point it up. Its very annoying. Is this common for this lens or is my one having some defect? </p>

    <p>Thanks for letting me know.</p>

    P&S for exposure

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Here is the truth. I have been using my DSLR with a 300mm (cheap lens) in the "spot meter" mode as a light meter and have successfully used it as a meter to use zone systems (I had to remember the zones in my mind :) ). Everything works fine but these meters have a limited range. These meters do not work fine when the light is low (dimly lit room/restaurant) or extremely bright. So, for regular conditions you can use the spot meter.<br>

    You can never judge the exposure from the histograms. The digital encoding and the film responses are quite different.</p>

    Large format photographers in Detroit

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi Everyone,</p>

    <p>I am going to move to Detroit, MI from Phoenix AZ in January. I am looking for photo stores that sells used equipments and specializes in large format photo stuff. I had an excellent store like that in Phoenix: <a href="http://www.photomark.com/large_format.html">http://www.photomark.com/large_format.html</a><br>

    Also, I would need a reliable photo lab for my sheet films, like I had <a href="http://www.colormark.com/">Colormark</a> and <a href="http://www.tempecamera.biz/">Tempe Cameras</a> in Phoenix. Most importantly, I need large format buddies. Any suggestions?<br>

    I am sad to leave Phoenix, but I am keeping my hopes high. Please help!!<br>

    Debejyo</p>

    Critique, please -- Is this too much light?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>IMO, avoid strong highlights as background. It bleeds into the picture and take the attention away. You would have been better off with stopping down and increasing the light power... Now, if you were to shoot with ambient light, keep a darker background. may be underexpose the image by a stop and then you can do some filllight (show lighting) in postprocessing...</p>

    Using RC-6 with T1i for mirror lockup

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Hi,<br>

    I returned depressed from a store after checking the RC-6 remote on T1i. It does not allow me to do mirror lockup. Or am I doing something wrong?<br>

    Can someone please explain how to do the mirror lockup using RC-6 with T1i? Is it at all possible?</p>

    <p>Thanks,</p>

    Weather effects on Sunny F-16 rule

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    <p>Dear Mark Sirota,<br>

    By visibility, I'm considering surface visibility as defined in http://www.weather.com/glossary/v.html (find the term here). For example, in Tempe, the visibility can be obtained from the weather.com page : http://www.wunderground.com/US/AZ/Tempe.html (look for visibility in the table on the left).<br>

    I think I mislead you by putting '%' in the first column. It should have been distance (eg miles).<br>

    Also, where can I find the illuminance information and the EV values? Do you know a document I can refer?<br>

    Thanks.</p>

    <p>TO Richard,<br>

    Thanks for the table. Its surely very handy. However, my objective was to try to come up with a measure of estimating the exposure from the weather report data on visibility as described above.<br>

    Thanks again for sharing the information.</p>

     

    Weather effects on Sunny F-16 rule

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    <p>Hi Guys,<br /> I am planning to conduct a regression analysis on the variation from sunny F-16 rule as a function of weather. For this, I need a large volume of data and your contribution will be greatly appreciated.</p>

    <p>On a clear sky day, take a typical picture with greens, and sky. On a clear sky, perfect visibility conditions, a metering on gray card (18%) will meter accurately to use the sunny f-16 rule (1/ISO seconds exposure at aperture f-16). Please note down the visibility from the internet of your location and report at f-16 what your shutter speed and ISO was. In other words, help me complete the table below:</p>

    <table border="1">

    <tbody>

    <tr>

    <td>visibility (%)</td>

    <td>ISO or ASA</td>

    <td>shutter speed (at aperture f-16) on 18% gray card in direct sunlight</td>

    <td>distance of photographer from gray card</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>.</td>

    <td>.</td>

    <td>.</td>

    <td>.</td>

    </tr>

    </tbody>

    </table>

    <p>Thanks, hope this is going to give us some information. I'll share my findings with all of you. Also, may be you can attach a picture that includes your gray card, with colorspace SRGB.</p>

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