debejyo
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Posts posted by debejyo
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Guys, sorry for the back photo. I have uploaded it now.
Forgot to put that picture. Now you can take a look.
Thanks for all the input.
I got this flash from KEH this week. in a like new condition and it does not work. I have put in new set of batteries but even before it could charge fully it drained all the batteries. So I guess its gone. Can't believe KEH sold me this!!! Lets hope I can return it for a refund.
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Ok, I have put some pictures in the link below:
http://community.webshots.com/album/560955322vYlVDr
Please let me know if there is any help.
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I have actually got the LENMAR 50SBT-XD (GN100) / BOUNCE SHOE MOUNT FLASH. Now the problem is that I do not know how to use it. I had mounted it on F100 and it does not seem to respond at all. It turns on with one red LED behind. Does anyone have any idea how to use it?
Thanks.
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Hi,
I have acquired a Lenmar 50SBT-XD flash. I have no clue how to use it. I do not
even see any button to discharge the flash manually. All I could do is turn it
on. Can anyone help me with some manual or a guide of some kind about this flash?
Thanks a lot.
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Hi Kevin, when you said that "FR1 is a aperture-selected", do you mean that I do not have an option of manual shutter at all? Does it have a bulb mode?
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Thanks for your response. But guys, whats the flash sync for K1000? Do any of these cameras sync at 1/500 or at least 1/250?
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Hi,
I have a few questions about a few old cameras. I want to know about the cameras
i'll mention later the following things:
1) Is it worth the price (maximum $50 I think)? Paying how much is justified for
this camera? I saw them all on ebay.
2) What is the flash sink speed of this?
3) Does it have DOF preview and mirror lockup?
4) Does it have full manual control on aperture and shutter speed?
5) Are there any major limitation of this camera?
Now let me enlist the cameras:
1) Asahi Pentax K1000
2) Yashica FX7 35mm
3) Yashica FR1 circa 1978
4) Pentax MX
5) Yahica FX-D Quartz
6) Yashica FX-3 Super
Whatever you know about these cameras can be helpful for me. I'm planning on
getting one. I love manual cameras. I have use Yashica mat 124G at present and
want to try out some 35mm for a change. Thank you very much for your help.
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PS. I just downsampled them and made them JPEG for uploading here. I did not try to correct anything. I have no clue how to get rid of the "RED DISC".
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I apologize for budging into the conversation. I use Yashicamat 124G. For me digital is just a point and shoot. The pain is in making digital copies to share. I tried scanning and they are fine as long as it is not a sunset at grand ganyon or some fireworks. Pictures with sharp color transitions have made my scans look so ugly that I wished scanner was never discovered.
What would you guys do with such pictures? I'll attach one right out of the scanner in a photo lab. I saw them and shrieked. They were 8bit TIFFs.<div></div>
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Thank you all very much. Your responses had been very helpful for me. I am following Jimmy's footsteps. I have already bought one of those slaves from ebay. Let me see how well it goes. The most inspiring was to see the pictures that Jimmy posted. Do you actually use some plastic bowls from some grocery store as flash diffusers? I never thought of that. Probably I should check them out. Do you have any specs on them?
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Ok, there is a slight confusion here. I am planning not to use any slave units. I am planning to connect all the flashes using some multiple pc-sync connecting unit that makes all the flashes master and no slave. so, each flash will draw the amount of current they do. Is there any limit on how much current the Yashica PC-connector can withstand?
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Hi, I was curious to know how many flashes Yashica 124G (or even Yashica 635)
can drive. I am using one at present but I plan to buy some more and connect
them via some multi-connector and stuff like that. Can the camera handle that
kind of load or do I have to rig up some electrical buffer?
My other question is this:
Does anyone have any idea what (how good or bad or old) the following flashes are:
1) LENMAR 50SBT-XD (GN100) / BOUNCE SHOE MOUNT FLASH
2) SOLIGOR MK-2 (GN56) SHOE MOUNT FLASH
I am looking for completely manual flash so I really do not care about anything
fancy.
Thanks for your response.
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Hi,
I want to get a lightbox that has uniform lighting and will allow me to get a
correct judgment of exposure and color temperature of my slides. I guess a 8x10
is a big enough size for me. Can anyone help me choose a good one within an
affordable limit.
Thanks.
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Hi All, I recently purchased a B+W NL+10 close-up attachment lens (+10 diopter).
When I put it on my Nikon D50, I can see 1" in the long dimension through my
view finder. This is giving me about life size. My lens focal length is 50mm
(75mm equivalent on 35mm). I know of the formula that relates the diopter (D)
and focal length (F) to the magnification (M) as follows:
M = F*D/1000
This formula gives me 50*10/1000 = 0.5. This number happens to be much less than
what i am getting (1.0). Can anyone explain what is going on? In fact, I have
checked it on my Nikon 35mm camera and the Magnification is still 1!!
Does magnification depend on format?
Thanks for your response.
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Hi All,
I recently purchased a B+W NL+10 close-up attachment lens (+10 diopter). When I
put it on my Yashica mat 124G, I can see 4cm through my view finder (for a
6cmx6cm format). This is giving me more than life size. My focal length is 80mm.
I know of the formula that relates the diopter (D) and focal length (F) to the
magnification (M) as follows:
M = F*D/1000
This formula gives me 80*10/1000 = 0.8. This number happens to be much less than
what i am getting (1.5). Can anyone explain what is going on?
Thanks for your response.
How was the light set up for this portrait?
in Lighting Equipment
Posted