nickwhite

'I have already downloaded 2.4 (2.0 was installed as default ACR) but I still can't open them.. loads of weird error messages.'

 

Yes, sorry I should have checked first - for CS you also need to download the DNG converter, and convert the NEFs to DNG.

 

I use the D80 with CS on the Mac, also CS2 on Windows - converting to DNG works just fine on both systems, and will also cope with other raw files eg Canon CR2 etc. It is also much neater (no sidecar files) and you can embed the original NEF file within the DNG one if you feel the need; there is no loss of data/quality.

You need to download the correct version of the Camera Raw plug-in (ACR) from Adobe. I think the the version for CS is V2.4 (at least that is what I am using on a Mac); follow the instructions carefully to ensure you install it in the correct place.

 

Alternatively you can download the Adobe DNG converter, which will convert the NEF files to DNG, which PS can open.

 

Both these downloads are free from Adobe.

As I recall the OM2N has a battery check LED on the back used via the on/off lever (long time since I used one). As Andrew says it certainly sounds like dead batteries to me - those button cells are best replaced about once a year anyway. I find a typewriter eraser is best for cleaning contacts (if you can get one now) - much coarser and does not leave a residue like a pencil eraser.

To use the flash remotely on manual you will need to use either a PC cord (and hot shoe adapter) or one of the off camera cords (SC28, SC29) to connect the flash to the camera; if you are using Commander mode for wireless off camera use then you can not use Manual.

 

When shooting manually, firstly set your shutter speed to the camera's max sync speed (D80 = 1/200) or slower, also the ISO must be the same on flash and camera (set automatically with on-camera SB800 flash); exposure is governed by the power of the flash, and the distance of the flash from the subject; the exposure is set on the camera as the aperture (F no). You can alter the power of the flash with both the zoom head position and the output power (1/1 - 1/64), also using diffusers etc.

 

I suggest you start by using the gun on full (1/1) power, ISO 100, with the head zoomed to 35mm - ie the basic settings for the gun - determining approx exposure (Aperture/F no) from the tables in the manual and adjusting for over/under exposure by altering the aperture or moving closer/further from the subject. Once you get used to what to expect at those settings then you can start experimenting by changing ISO, power ratio, zoom setting etc.

 

A separate flash meter would allow you to measure the amount of flashlight falling on the subject, and take away the guesswork/calculations but I would only suggest buying one if you intend to use studio lighting at a later date.

 

Hope this helps.

I wonder why you are using manual settings with that combination of camera/flash? surely you would be better using the 'Commander' function of the D80 (in A mode) to fire/control the SB800 remotely? Just match up the Group and Channel on both; if you don't want the pop-up to contribute to the lighting set it's output to '--' (CF22, Commander mode). Ensure the sensor window (by the battery compartment door) of the SB800 has line of sight to the camera.

 

If you really need to shoot manually, you would find a flash meter useful. The guide no's are usually way over optimistic (especially outdoors), so in the case you describe try setting 1/4 or 1/2 power and check via the histogram.

Shaun, I can't see any way this would be a Nikon compatibility problem.

 

Since you now say you get the same with another camera, I would pay special attention to the sync lead(s) - these are a notorious source of problems (I did not question them before since you said the set up worked other than on the D80). Indeed under the 'customer reviews' on B+H site there is at least one regarding Impacts 'poor' sync cables failing! You can test a cable by shorting across the terminals at the PC end when connected to the strobe. Often PC cables will give intermittent problems due to a partial break of the strands within the cable, due to the flexing of the cable sometimes it will make a contact and sometimes not. Also test with each strobe separately to eliminate a strobe socket problem.

 

Another thing that occurs to me is that both the cameras that are giving the problem have built in winders - so are you allowing the strobes enough time to fully recharge? the Impacts seem to quote about 3 secs from full power, so if you use the heads at full power you may need to allow maybe 4-5 secs (due to manufacturers over optimistic specs) - most strobes will not fire until fully recharged!

 

'The cable connecting the hot shoe adaptor is PC to 1/4" Phono. Is this common?' yes, pretty standard; either that or the smaller type phono plug (just make sure if you change it or use an adapter to change the size that you get Mono not Stereo).

 

As I said before, I think using the pop-up is by far your best option, unless you are intending to give it very heavy pro use (in which case invest in a radio trigger). The only repairs my 20 year old strobes have needed have been due to sync cords pulling the lights over! I avoid them whenever possible especially when other people are there to trip over them eg models!

I use the pop-up that way and have never had a problem with those settings, even close up. I did use a cheap ebay radio trigger for a while, but that was not at all reliable. If I were using the strobes everyday I would invest in a decent radio trigger such as the Elinchrom Skyport (I consider the Pocket wizards way too overpriced in comparison) http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/prod.asp?i=16899&1=Elinchrom+EL-Skyport+Universal+Trigger+Set

 

'I wonder if any of the adaptors/cables are providing enough resistance to keep the camera from 'communicating' with the lights' - I think that is highly unlikely, but I'm not a technician; far more likely is the simple shoe or cable contact, especially with all those connections in your original set up!

Most likely a poor connection between the hot shoe adapter and the camera (that's presuming the cable is ok since it works on the other set-ups). Try reversing the adapter in the hot-shoe for a better fit? and/or clean the centre contact in the shoe with a typist's eraser.

 

Or use the pop-up to trigger them as described previously.

 

Nick.

Shaun,

 

Your monolights will have a built in optical slave, so you do not need the PC splitter - just connect one PC cord between the hot shoe adapter and one of the lights, the second light will be triggered by it's slave automatically.

 

Alternatively you can do away with the cords completely and use the D80's pop-up flash to fire the strobes (better option IMO - no cord to trip over). Set the camera flash to manual (CF22) and select the lowest power setting (1/32) so as not to influence the overall lighting, the pop-up will then trigger both your monolights cordlessly.

 

You should be using the camera in Manual mode with the shutter speed set to the flash sync speed or longer (I usually use 1/125 on the D80), set the aperture according to the light output (either measured with a flash meter if you have one or by trial and error using the histogram).

 

Nick.

One other point to remember is that you will not be able to focus to infinity when using an extension tube.

 

The Kenko/Teleplus tubes would also allow you to autofocus, although it may be very slow. The Kenko set would give you three tubes, which would allow more control over the minimum focus distance, although I would use them individually rather than in combination especially with heavier lenses. http://www.photographyreview.com/cat/lenses/35mm-converters/kenko/PRD_83453_3132crx.aspx

Randy,

 

If you want something very small you might also check out the 'Microsync' unit, although I wouldn't personally recommend it for the reasons stated in this thread - http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00O6KF

 

The Elinchrom Skyport has been available in Europe for considerably longer than in the US and has already gained an excellent reputation here; although I have only used them once in a rental studio situation, that is certainly the one I would buy if I were doing so at present.

 

The PWs have been de-facto for a long time simply because there were not any truly viable alternatives available - and they set their prices accordingly! that situation has now changed with products like the Skyport being produced from major companies like Elinchrom. Unless PW see the light and revise their exorbitant prices I can see a "the king is dead - long live the king(s)" situation developing quite rapidly, certainly in Europe where blind brand loyalty is less prevalent IMO - (gained from living/working on both sides of the Atlantic, and having dual nationality!).

 

Nick.

http://www.theflashcentre.com/skyport-remote-system-c264.html

Simone, the ML-L3 requires line of sight to the front of the camera - OK if all you want is to get yourself into a group shot. The MC-DC1 limits you to the length of the cord (about 3'); I have both and find I only use the cord now.

 

Dave, check this out - http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/home.php?cat=278&page=2 - they also list a 5 meter long one, as well as wireless releases.

Try here - http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/home.php?cat=278&page=2 - they also list a 5m long one.

Firstly you should only need two units (one transmitter and one receiver), the head that has the receiver attached will then trigger your other strobes.

 

I have no personal experience of the 'microsync' but looking at the spec at B+H, I would be wary (eg does not work with Nikon D40 D70 D80, range only 100' etc).

 

For the same price as the microsync you can get the 'Elinchrom Skyport universal' set http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/prod.asp?i=16899&1=Elinchrom+EL-Skyport+Universal+Trigger+Set

which seems to be highly regarded by those who use it, has about four times the range of that microsync and none of the camera compatibility problems.

 

Personally I find the pocket wizards ridiculously overpriced especially here in the UK, where they are about three times the price of the Elinchrom.

Gordon, I have the Fuji F31fd - and I would question your need for a spare battery; I find the durability of this battery absolutely astounding. OK I'm not using the camera all-day-every-day, but I would suggest you hold off buying a spare until you are sure you really need it.

 

My experience of third party batteries (for Nikon DSLR) has been pretty good - in fact the only one of the four batteries I use that has any problem is the original Nikon one (won't now accept a full charge) even thought it has had less use than the replacements.

Randy, I suspect you may have had your flash meter set to a different ISO than the camera setting, probably ISO100? That would account for the under exposure.

 

You didn't say what camera you use - but if 1/250 is the fastest sync speed on it (as I suspect), then I would also try using one stop slower ie 1/125. In theory that should have no effect on exposure in this situation, but in practice shooting at max sync speed can sometimes cause a problem if you are using other than the camera manufacturers guns.

Press the 'Menu' button, select 'Custom Setting Menu' (pencil icon), scroll down to no29 'Self-timer' and select the delay you require, press 'OK'.

 

If you are only able to access the first 10 items when you go to the Custom Setting menu, then you need to first go to the Setup Menu (spanner)- highlight 'CSM/setup menu' and select 'Full', press OK. (see p86/101 of manual).

Custom Setting no 29 (see p99 of your camera manual) you have a choice of 2,5,10, or 20 sec delay.

All the Sigma macro lenses are excellent - http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/macro.htm

There is no such thing as a 'US' D80 - or an English one or a German one or an Italian or French one etc etc etc.

 

ALL D80's are made in Nikon's factory - IN THAILAND!

With studio lights you need to be shooting in Manual mode; in-camera exposure compensation will have no effect on your exposure when shooting in manual. Adjust exposure by changing your aperture or the intensity of the lights.

The Kenko/Teleplus Ext Tube set will work fine retaining the metering and AF - although you would not need/want AF in macro. I don't have the 500mm but can see no reason for not using the tubes with that lens, however I would only use them singly, not in combination, since you can get minor movement between the tubes when used together and that could be a problem with a heavy set up.

Ellis - all I know is from the info on those sites; they quote - f/5.6 at 5ft (152cm) 100 ASA, so judging from that I would guess at least 3 stops loss.

I would favour the SB-600 flash over the SB-400 which can not be bounced on the ceiling in portrait orientation (no swivel head).