nickwhite

You do not 'need' to upgrade PS; just download the FREE adobe DNG converter and use that to convert the NEF files to DNG - they will then open in CS2/Bridge. http://www.adobe.com/products/dng/

 

To download you will need to download the combined ACR 4.3 + DNG package - but do not install the ACR plug-in (that is the CS3 version) - just retain the DNG converter which will work with ACR versions 2.3 or higher, which you should already have installed.

There is also now a D60 in the Nikon line up which you could consider - somewhere between the D40 and D80. Personally I would just go for the D80 preferably with the excellent 18-70mm kit lens (I much prefer that lens over the 18-55 and 18-135 due to the plastic mounts on those - the 18-70 is a better quality build). You can then take your time to purchase a longer (or wider) lens (maybe used), when you are in a better position to judge what you really need.

 

The D80 will allow you to use a wider selection of lenses, new or old, with full automation; the other Nikon models mentioned require AF-S (or Sigma USM) lenses which have an inbuilt focus motor.

 

Re the 'sales patter' - if you go to a Canon dealer they will tell you to buy Canon, go to a Nikon dealer and the reverse will obviously be true - both are excellent, but whichever you chose it can get expensive to change later on once you have built up a selection of lenses flash accessories etc. Camera bodies tend to be updated about every 2 years to a new model (Nikon having recently announced the D60, I expect the D80 will have about another year before being upgraded).

 

One other point - if your interest is mainly in landscape, you may find a wider lens more useful as your second lens eg Sigma 10-20mm. On the other hand for concerts etc you will probably need a faster (wider aperture) lens especially in the longer focal length and that can start to get expensive!

I have had similar problems for a long while, with one computer (mac) either corrupting an occasional image or just freezing on download; I also work around it by downloading to my laptop, to a shared drive, all the images are then fine on both machines. This happens with both SD and CF cards. I believe it to be a USB based problem, but have never been able to get to the bottom of it. Another workaround I'm considering is to use a stand alone reader/drive, which would have the added advantage of providing an earlier backup as well, of course, of being useful when away from base.

 

Make sure you always download direct to a USB2 port on the computer - never via a hub, preferably using a card reader.

I have the Sigma 50mm macro and also the Micro-Nikor 105vr. The Sigma macro lenses are all superb optically (I used to have the 105mm also); just be aware that the front element extends with close focus so with the 50mm you will have about 2" from the front element at 1:1; the 50mm makes for an excellent portrait length on digital also.

The only problem you might encounter with the SB600 for macro is it may be too powerful very close up. Using the built in 'wide flash adapter' (which will also set the zoom to the widest position) will help and can also be used in conjunction with the Stofen diffuser https://sslrelay.com/s156287941.oneandoneshop.co.uk/sess/utn;jsessionid=1547b423e103fbf/shopdata/index.shopscript - I'm sure others will recommend other diffusers, but I find that one works fine for me; I also occasionally use some white gauze material over the flash head as a diffuser.

'Why wouldn't one SB-800/600 cut it? If it's for the shadows, a diffuser should help, shouldn't it?'

 

Yes I quite agree with you; when you move the flash close to your subject it becomes less directional anyway (less of a point source), a diffuser will help - a Stofen one on the SB600 works great; probably just as/more useful will be a home made reflecter eg made from tin foil/ white board etc.

 

I would avoid the ring flash option (especially at that price). If you don't mind shooting in manual it is pretty easy to make up a macro rig for very little cost making use of budget end flashes with PC cords.

I use the SB600 and the R1C1 kit on the D80.

 

If you decide to go for the (excellent) macro flash kit, I would urge you to go for the R1C1 over the R1 kit - the SU800 commander (although not essential with the D80) makes it so much more user friendly and gives increased wireless range; even if you decide you don't need the SU800 you can sell it on for a lot more than the difference in the cost of the two kits.

 

Regarding the SB200 - the main downside is that they do not fit in the hotshoe; but they come with a stand that can also be attached to a standard tripod screw. They are lower powered, but still have enough output to be fairly useful for portraits etc in smaller rooms, and great for providing fill-in lighting.

 

Having said all that, if you want a flash more for general photography, with occasional macro use, you might be better off getting the SB600 first. I find the SB600 preferable to the SB800 due to it's more compact size and simplified control layout (compared to the SB800) unless you absolutely need the extra (about 1 stop) power of the SB800.

 

I find the combination of the R1C1 and the SB600 covers all my needs. In general shooting the SB600 is the main flash with the SBR200s providing fill; in macro the 200s are the main lights and the 600 can light the background.

My battery experience has been just the reverse - my 3 aftermarket ones are all fine, the only battery which has caused me problems is the 'genuine' Nikon one! it won't hold a full charge, despite only having had light use, and is very temperamental when used in a D80 grip.

Looking at the camera from the front - it is top RIGHT below the D300/ D200 logo, under the cover. The D70s and D80 accept a release on the right side (viewed from the front) again under the cover. The D70, D40, D50 and probably D60? can only be used with the IR release.

The Seagull brand (Chinese made) finder is excellent value for money, and comes with adapters for most cameras. It gives a fully corrected view and choice of 1 or 2x magnification. Here is a review - http://www.digicaminfo.btinternet.co.uk/rightanglefinder.htm

 

I use mine on a Nikon D80. I paid about ?35 ($70).

Jeff, looking at your photo and the distributor's site http://www.patersonphotographic.com/benbo-tripods.htm, I think that is all part of the column assembly on that model (they do 2 versions, the normal fixed type and the 'swivel' version as per yours), so the ball and socket head will simply attach to the (1/4"?) screw on the top of the swivel bit; also as you say, on the trekker models, the hook is not removable.

 

Feel free to email me, if you like.

Are you using Silver Oxide batteries, not Alkaline or Lithium? - see John's replies on this thread http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00OFL8

Sorry, I should have said turn ANTI-clockwise, not clockwise!

As Bruce says, a photo would help. I've used Benbo tripods myself, but that does not sound like a Benbo head on it. It is very unlikely to be secured from the bottom of the head due to the design of the Benbo column, so if you can find no small screws on the surface of the head, I am sure it will come loose simply by turning clockwise - if it is tight (as it sounds) a bit of effort may be needed - if the head has a lever arm or suchlike on it, a sharp 'tap' on that might do the trick.

 

With most of the Benbo columns, you can attach a head on either end of the column - try unscrewing the 'hook' from the other end. (there is usually a 1/4" screw one end and a 3/8" the other.

 

PS I have a couple of 'spare' Benbo/Kennett ball and socket heads (but I am in the UK).

Perhaps you have a mis-match of frequencies. US and EU use different frequencies, so if your Sekonic is an EU model and your lights/pocketwizard US model (or vice-verse) you could have a mis-match; you can buy a different module for the Sekonic if this is the case, but I don't know about the Profoto.

 

 

Radio wave frequency

 

 

USA & Canada (FCC & IC)

CH1-CH16 344.00MHz

CH17-CH32 346.50 ~ 354.00MHz

 

 

Europe (EU)

CH1-CH16 433.62MHz

CH17-CH32 434.22MHz

The Sigma 150mm and 180mm macro lenses have the HSM motor so will work fully with the D40. As yet the 50mm, 70mm, and 105mm have not been updated to include the motor but all are superb macro lenses. HSM is the equivalent of AF-S. http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/macro.htm

First set your SB800 to 'Remote' (SB800/P76).

 

Match the Channel and Group on both the SU800 (P84/SU) and SB800 (P79/SB).

 

Ensure that the SB800 sensor window, located by the battery door (SB/P10 item 4) has direct line of sight to the front of the SU800; nb you may have to rotate the SB800 flash-head up to 180degs to line it up.

You can download the manual (free) from Sekonic.

 

When the Lumisphere is raised, you will have a normal incident reading - lower the sphere (gives flat diffuser) to measure the ratio between your lights (ie a more directional incident reading).

Another vote for Seconic; I use a 15 year old F-L328, very simple to use and ultra reliable, it is also very compact: I recently got the 5deg spot attachment for it for next to nothing on ebay! (originally these cost almost as much as the meter). The only meter I would change it for would be the L508/L558/L758 (NB the 558/758 use a CR123a battery in place of the AA).

 

One thing to check when buying the L328 is that it still has all three of it's diffusers (1 domed, 1 flat and 1 reflective); the 2 not in use store in a little pocket inside the case.

The Elinchrom Skyport EL syncs up to 1/1000th sec. No compatibility problems that I have heard of - they certainly work flawlessly with D80.

You could try watch/clock or jewelery outlets for supplies, since they are marketed as a 'watch' battery. If all else fails, here is a link to a UK supplier - http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_357.htm

 

Also available from Amazon etc (is there an Amazon NZ?) eg - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-357-303-Thermometers-calculators/dp/B000J657TE/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=gateway&qid=1202300330&sr=8-2

The Seagull gives a correct (un-reversed) image. About $80. http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/items/item.aspx?itemid=4445388&utm_source=baseuk&utm_medium=shopping

I use the Seagull on Nikon. Excellent value for money. Comes with adapters to fit a wide range of cameras/models.

Sheer, I am also in Europe (UK); as others have said, I would avoid the 'all-in-one' option.

 

Basically the greater no of inks a printer utilises the better result it can produce; most 'photo' printers use 6 or more, adding 'light cyan' and 'light magenta' to the basic black, cyan, magenta and yellow (eg the Epson R285) - avoid printers which use a single multicolour cartridge (you will be throwing out the cart as soon as only one colour is exhausted, the others may be half full still!), most of the 'all-in-ones' use a multicolour cart.

 

Theoretically the R285 therefore will provide better photo prints than the Canon ip4500 which has cyan, magenta, yellow, and two black tanks, the extra black tank seems to have been added for document printing rather than better colour output - for that reason I would also look at the ip3500 (b.c.m,y) which would save you a bit more money and almost certainly make identical colour prints (you lose the option to print direct to CDs - a facility you probably wont use anyway).

 

In practice I doubt you would see much difference in quality between the Epson and Pixmas - the biggest difference will be down to the quality of the photo papers you use. The Epson will be far more expensive to run than the Canon - Epson inks are extremely expensive, and the availability of third party ones can be a problem since Epson has waged war on producers! Canon produces more reasonably priced inks and third party ones are available at incredibly low prices (in UK anyway).

 

Re the film scanning; flatbed (document) scanners can be bought very cheaply with film scanning capability included; however if you want good scans from 35mm film you would do better to look for a dedicated film scanner (plenty available on ebay these days).

 

The Canon ip6700 looks to have been discontinued, leaving a big gap in their line-up since they appear to now have no 6 ink(+) A4 printer available (at least I couldn't find one on the Canon UK site). It could be a very good option if you can still find one at a knock down price!

 

Just for info, I used to always use Epson printers but changed to a Canon (i9950/A3) last time - a move I have not regretted for one second - the prints from this (8 cart) printer are absolutely superb, and the running costs a fraction of the Epson.

 

Hope this helps, Nick.

'You won't be able to read a dng file converted from raw using the latest DNG converter' - that is incorrect - I use DNG V4.1(33) with D80 and CS just fine.

 

Richard's description is good.