nickwhite

The three head kit might be overkill - better to get the 2 head kit and only add to it as you really feel the need; the cash saved can be better used for backgrounds and the like.

 

Those heads would probably last you 20 years or more, the Bowens 's' mount means modifiers will be widely available for many, many years to come and if you need to shoot independent of mains power there is the 'Travelpack' to consider which gives battery power for 2 heads.

 

I can't comment on the use abroad, but they are rated at 190-240v 50hz

For extension tubes, the best option is the Kenko N/AF DG set since they will retain full compatibility with any of the lenses mentioned. You can also use tubes to reduce the closest focusing on long lenses (usually losing the AF function).

 

There are no optical elements in tubes to degrade the image but there is the extra light loss to be considered the closer you focus.

Chris, for the UK that is good; Canon, Nikon etc usually just change the dollar sign to a pound one when pricing for us poor Brits (even with the exchange at $2 to the pound) - that's why we are poor!

Since you are likely to get a D80, you should perhaps also consider the range of Sigma macro lenses.http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/macro.htm

 

I use the Sigma 50mm (on a D80), and have also owned the 105mm version (although I have the Nikkor now); I think the newer Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro could suit you ideally, due to the slightly increased working distance over the 50mm focal length and 1:1 lifesize reproduction to get you in on the flower details, and yet an ideal length for portraits too (equiv to 105mm on full frame).

You could still get the 50mm f1.8 if you really need that one extra stop (or even the f1.4) but personally I have never felt the need for it, since I shoot mainly macro, nat history and animal portraits.

There are three models L-758D, L-758DR and L-758cine.

 

The L-758D is the basic fully spec'd meter.

 

The L-758DL is exactly the same except that it comes with a pockewizard transmitter installed - make sure you get the correct one for your location - US and Europe use different frequencies, hence different modules (about time they did an Elinchrom transmitter!).

 

The L-758cine is the L-758D with the addition of cine speeds from 1-1000fps.

 

You can download a brochure here -

http://www.sekonic.co.jp/English/product/meter/download.shtml

It is being caused by your camera's pre-flash - you just don't see it on the shorter exposure. Your strobes are being triggered on the pre flash, so have already fired when the shutter opens.

 

You need to go into your cameras menus to find a setting which will stop the pre flash - can't help you with the details, I don't use Pentax; on a Nikon you would set the on-board flash to manual, and reduce the output to minimum so as not to add to the overall lighting.

This from mir.com states that it is Non-AI (half way down page).

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/6070nikkor/micro/index.htm

Sorry wrong link! - http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Arca-Swiss-Monoball-Z1-Ballhead-Review.aspx

The head all the previously mentioned ones are measured by is the Arca-Swiss Z1 - why settle for anything else. http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/locations

You can check for fairly competitive prices with Warehouse Express http://www.warehouseexpress.com/Home/default.aspx

 

If you need Pro equipment then Calumet is probably the best place to go http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/locations

 

I would avoid Jacobs at all cost - I have had two bad experiences with them - never again!

 

Jessops are on every high street but charge top price with no room for negotiation.

 

LCE (London Camera Exchange) have many branches and carry plenty of used equipment also http://www.londoncameraexchange.co.uk/index_group.php

 

You will find the smaller independent photo shops will often 'match' national prices for genuine UK products (ie not grey imports) - my local shop (in Devon) certainly will (but only if you ask!).

 

Most prices on UK websites will include VAT at the UK rate of 17.5%, but It's best to check.

The travel plug adapter is essential - get the multi connector type if possible (eg UK is different to mainland Europe etc).

 

The Sigma 10-20 Ken suggests is indeed an excellent lens - but would blow a quarter of your budget at $500.

 

'many European buildings like museums, churches, galleries, stately homes, etc don't allow flash' - that also applies to tripods.

Stanley, perhaps you could provide a link to the ebay trigger concerned; maybe I'm missing something here but all the triggers I've used/seen including ebay ones, elinchrom, pocketwizard, etc would NOT connect to the flashgun hotshoe - they all connect via PC (with hot shoe adapter if no socket on the gun).

The only hotshoe connection is on the transmitter which is a push fit in the camera's hotshoe, the reciever connects as previously described to the flashgun. The SB-80DX has a pc socket on the side, which the receiver should connect to?

The Hoya Multihood (multi lens hood) is a rubber 3 position hood that might suit you.

That is certainly the best of the 'kit' lenses IMO; If you do not already have the D80 it would be cheaper to buy the D80 + 18-70 kit, than to buy both separately. Nikon also do 18-55 and 18-135 lenses in the kits, but both of those have plastic mounts; the 18-70 is better built.

 

Sigma also make excellent lenses, the AF lenses will all be fully compatible.

John, the EM has a mechanical back-up speed of 1/90sec; if you set it to M90 you can expose manually, but only at that one speed, or on the 'bulb' setting for long exposures - you could meter with your D70.

 

Alternatively use 50 or 100 iso film and compensate in the development time for the overexposure.

 

A repair to the EM would not be economical.

Another happy D80 user.

I use the DK-21m on a D80. There is very little difference in magnification over the standard one I find - but what I do like about it is that it sits prouder from the camera, so more room for my nose!

 

There was a post a few days ago, week maybe, from someone who bought a (chinese?) flip up magnifier 2.5x and was pleased. For low level work you can use an angle finder, I have a 'Seagull' which is excellent http://www.digicaminfo.btinternet.co.uk/rightanglefinder.htm

No problem with the lenses; you will probably need a wider angle lens though eg 18-70, in addition.

 

I believe the flash is also ok, but I would suggest you consider the Nikon SB-600 for the D80 to make full use of that camera's capability.

In addition to what Craig says, you can also use the pop-up flash (with the power dialed down to minimum output) to trigger the Geminis; the advantage being you don't have the sync cord to trip over. Also, but at a cost, you could go for a radio trigger system, such as the Elinchrom Skyport or more expensive Pocketwizard.

Yes get the shoe 3, and T32.

 

There's one on ebay -UK Item number: 330213233020

One other thought - are the batteries in the winder providing enough oomph? - cheap torch cells just won't cut it.

It is a long time since I used olympus, but I can certainly confirm that the winder is not operating correctly - I can only suggest you try removing the winder and reattaching it (if you have not already done so), as I recall the linkage of the drive mechanism to the body could jam if done too hurriedly.

Bert, elsewhere the SB-800 manual also states that 'multiple TTL flash using cords is not possible on digital cameras' P72.

 

Setting "--" on the D300 etc will set the flash to no output - BUT you still get the pre-flash firing, which can cause some people to blink.

 

I have to repeat that I do NOT think the SU-800 is necessarily your "ultimate solution", on it's own anyway - as part of the R1CI kit it probably WOULD BE but as Shun says that kit is not cheap. You could also consider the R1 kit if doing lots of macro work: the main advantages of the SU-800, apart from the lack of pre-flash are the extended wireless range (that doesn't help you in the macro situation) and ease of use over the built-in controller.

 

If your flashes don't fire when controlled by the pop-up, then they are also unlikely to fire just because you replace that signal with the one from an SU-800!

 

I use the R1C1 kit, occasionally adding an SB-600 to light the background, and find it completely trouble free.

I have the SU-800 which I use with both the SB-600 and SB-R200s (R1CI kit), it is a superb bit of kit, however I do NOT think just buying the SU-800 will necessarily solve your CLS problem! and if the pre-flash is an issue the SG-31R IR panel is a far more economical solution.

 

It is far more likely that the non-firing in CLS is due to poor sighting of the CLS sensor window on the guns and the camera - the manuals are very poor in covering this! eg if you are using one gun on the left of your subject and the other on the right, the latter needs to have the head rotated 180deg so the sensor (by the battery compartment door) faces the camera. See my replies to other posts on this matter.

 

I suspect, as someone else has already said, that your overexposure with close-up subjects is because the guns are just too powerful in close, so they can not dial the output down low enough - maybe try using neutral density filtration on the flash heads, or just move them further away; I believe the minimum subject to flash distance for the SB-800 is quoted at 2ft, with two guns you might need to extend that a bit more. It may also help to use the built-in/stofen type diffuser and/or set a wider zoom setting.

I used to use the T32 on my OM2,s and OM4's - I also had the superb T28 macroflash which was far in advance of anything else at that time. http://www.alanwood.net/photography/olympus/t28-macro-twin-flash.html