nickwhite

The 'Seagull' is an excellent item that comes with adapters for many different cameras, I use mine on a Nikon D80, and is remarkably cheap.

 

Mine has 1x-2x mag, but I see it advertised as 1x-2.5x now. It cost me about ?35 ($70) but they sell for less than half that in the US I think! They also provide a corrected, vertically and horizontal, view - which many of the pricier ones do not!

 

Seagull is/was one of the oldest established Chinese photo firms, reputed for their medium format cameras, mow relaunched making Kodak cameras, according to this review - http://www.digicaminfo.btinternet.co.uk/rightanglefinder.htm

Kim, Unless you habitually need to get the camera into very inaccessible type places - in which case I would recommend a Benbo (with a 'B') - I don't think you will find a great deal of use for the 'lateral arm', after initial experimentation anyway, and it is adding an extra 1/2 LB weight and about 20% in cost to the virtually identical C-258 model.

 

With any tripod maximum stability is obtained at the apex of the legs, without the centre column extended, the lateral arm design is taking the balance off-centre so reducing the stability (especially with a heavier camera and/or lens).

 

I find there are very few instances where I am not able to get the shot with a 'standard design' tripod, especially where you are able to reverse the column or use a short one, as with the Benro. I have had a Kennett Benbo Mk1 for about 25 years but it has been in the back of a cupboard probably for the last 8-10, I do do allot of macro (insects flowers etc) and really do not have any problem that the lateral arm would solve.

 

I'm not trying to put you off buying that design if you are sure you need it, but I do think you may find it is a feature that you rarely, if ever, use after the initial experimentation.

 

Nick.

 

Ps I've been referring to the C298/C258 models which are 4 section as opposed to C297/C257 which are the 3 section versions - my 4 section one is extremely stable and I have no regrets at all about choosing it over a 3 sect one, indeed the extra leg section just gives more control.<div></div>

"Half price yes but remember that you always get what you pay for..." - well in my case that's higher capacity (1600mAh/1500mAh), better reliability (the only battery, of four, that gives me problems is the Nikon branded one!), and available at 1/4 - 1/3 the price of the Nikon (which costs $70-$80 in UK) - chances are they are all made in the same factory anyway, since my 'third party' ones are also made in Japan!

 

If you buy a Sony TV - do you insist on using 'Sony' batteries in the remote?

Judging by the product pics on Nikon UK site it looks to me like the design of the new G version is similar to the 105mm - that being the case I would expect it to be internal focusing rather than the extending front element of the D, also, since it does not have the deeply recessed front element I would expect it to give a slightly improved working distance from the front of the lens.

 

Still showing as 'pre-order' in the UK.

Probably the best backdrops are hand painted canvas - but these can be very expensive, I only have one 'Old Master', it is certainly my favourite but too small for much more than h/s.

 

I use mainly muslins - I keep mine crinkled in a bag, which I find adds rather than detracts; trying to get them crinkle free (almost impossible) just draws the attention to the odd wrinkle you missed! just keep them a good distance behind the subject.

 

For smaller backdrops I use the Lastolite type ones - not cheap but quick and easy to set up almost anywhere.

 

I no longer use paper except for close-up table-top type shots. Apart from plain backgrounds being very bland, handling full width rolls of paper in anything other than a permanent studio can be a nightmare; they also need regular replacement.

For less than the cost of the 055MF3 you could get the superb Benro C-258n6, which will be taller and lighter (3.6 lb), or if you must have the (IMO rather useless) lateral arm arrangement the Benro C-298n6, again taller and lighter (4.1 lb).

 

Benro tripods are on a par with Gitzo which for many years have been the benchmark for tripods; Benro are Chinese made near copies of the Gitzo models, are made to the very highest standard and now have distributers in major countries; they sell at about half the price of the equivalent Gitzo model without any loss of quality IMO.

 

I have been using the Benro C-228n6 (now C-258n6) for about a year now; formerly I was using Gitzo's for about 20 years (I still have two) but I do think the Benro is actually better made than the current Gitzo equivalent and it cost me well under half the price!

 

I think B+H are the US distributers, in the UK it's Photopal UK - http://www.benro.com/

 

My own preference would be for a ball + socket head rather than the pan/tilt, but only if you can afford a good one such as Arca-Swiss, Kirk, etc. I have both types and generally use the b/s at least 95% of the time.

 

I have to disagree with Alan, once you start using a CF tripod there is no going back; apart from the weight issue, which is noticeable, the CF feels sturdier and will not freeze to your hands in sub-zero temperatures like alloy!

I currently have a Sigma 50mm, which will give you a working distance of 2" @ 1:1, so I would expect the 70mm to be around the 3" - 4" mark, but I've not actually used that lens.

 

I used to have the Sigma 105mm but replaced it with the Nikon 105mm VR which gives a working distance of 6" - as I recall the working distance with the Sigma was a little less probably about 5", as you rightly say the Sigmas extend for close focusing, the Nikon focuses internally which I do find more convenient especially when tripod mounted. I've not used the 60mm but I think the latest AF-S version is also internal focusing.

 

If you want the lens to double for portraits, and are not chasing small skittish insects allot, I think my choice would probably be the Sigma 70mm (gives the equivalent coverage of a 105mm on FF) or Nikon 60mm (90mm equivalent) I find the 105mm is too long for portraits on DX, for a longer lens perhaps the 150mm would be worth a look, I'm told it is superb (my brother has one but we live 3000 miles apart).

 

It would make life allot easier if the manufacturers were to quote the actual min focus distance from the front of the lens, but as you rightly say they all quote from the film/sensor plane to the subject.

 

Clive, "the stated working distance is from the front of the lens to the subject and not from the focal plane to the subject." - Nikon (UK) quotes 22cm for the 60mm - that is the distance from the film plane to the subject - oh that it were the actual shooting distance!

 

PS - I am also using the D80.

I have a Benro C228n6 which I bought about a year ago; I was weighing up whether to pay the (considerable) extra for the equivalent CF Gitzo at the time - I am now very happy that I opted for the Benro.

 

I also have two older Gitzo's - a 'Sport' which was my travel 'pod for years, and a 'Studex' - I've not used either since getting the Benro, which is as light as the Sport and bigger and far, far sturdier than the Studex! I'm about 5'6" and find the C228 (current version C258 I think) plenty tall enough (without centre column extension), If you are very tall you might want to opt for the 3 series.

 

Personally I would not opt for that Flexpod/lateral arm design, but of course that is your choice; if you really need a tripod to get into any nook or cranny then I would say check out the BenBo (mk1).

 

When I had a retail outlet, a fair while ago, I stocked Manfrotto among others, but I can't say I was ever very keen on them, although they did sell well and I've not seen the current CF models.

 

BTW there is a short column available for the Benro's which allows the legs to splay fully to ground level.

Ben,

 

You're welcome.

 

If you can get to the NEC(Birmingham) in the next few days 'Focus on Imaging' started today and ends on Wednesday - often you can get a good deal at the exhibition. http://www.focus-on-imaging.co.uk/

 

I bought my Multiblitz lights there (used off one of the guys on their trade stand) and they have served me well for the best part of twenty years!

 

I'm not sure how much entry to the exhibition is now since I have not been for several years, and I used to get free entry anyway. Most of the good used stuff gets sold in the first couple of days though.

 

Nick.

 

ps I have a couple of old Photax stands, also two Larsen umbrellas which I've been planing to list on ebay - if of any interest feel free to email me.

It will almost certainly be marked somewhere on the lens; (often preceded by a O with an oblique line through it).

I suspect that the first flash is simply the 'monitor preflash' which is not contributing to the exposure (fires simply to determine the correct flash exposure). you will not notice it on front curtain sync since the preflash and actual flash are almost instantaneous - on rear curtain sync the camera is delaying the main flash so you then see two (prelash/main flash) with a short delay,determined by shutter speed, between the two.

Ben, since no-one else seems to be responding I'll try to help, although I have to say that I have not had any experience of these particular strobes.

 

I did a search on ebay(UK) and found both items; of the two my preference would be toward the PS4101 purely on the basis that they provide fuller specs etc - which are very much lacking on the 'Red Dragon' listing, although the PS head looks a bit of an ugly brute!

 

Both state that they use 'S' type fittings - before purchasing either I would make absolutely sure that they do indeed mean "Bowens S Type" - this will be very important for using any sort of light modifiers apart from a simple umbrella; at the very least you will need a 'speedring' for attaching softboxes etc. You also need to seriously consider the availability of spares (esp flashtubes/modeling light bulbs) and also repairs on these Chinese imports. (will the ebay supplier still be there when you need spares/repair?).

 

My own preference would be to get a Bowens Esprit Gemini 500 (GM500) which at only ?100 more than you are currently looking at (Warehouse Express = ?359) would be well worth the extra money IMO, if you can possibly rise to it.

 

Are you prepared to buy used? if so there are quite often good deals to be found - eg on ebay - there are a couple of Elinchrom kits at the moment; I would look mainly for Bowens or Elinchrom (or Prolinca, which is/was Elinchrom's budget range), possibly Multiblitz (no UK distributer now but I get excellent service from Germany - not that I need it, they are ultra reliable) after that you could consider Interfit, Courtenay, Photax, Jessop etc., but I would avoid any brands that have not been or still are widely available in the UK, for the reasons already stated.

 

Nick (N Devon)

These HK distributers taken from Benro's main site -

 

 

 

 

Company Name : LB Shop

Tel : 00852-28933355 / 96335967

Fax : 2892-0756

Address : A2, No.220 Cheung Sha Wan Road Kowloon Hk.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Company name : Ying Kee Trading

Address : G/F162 Apliu Street Sham Shui Po KowLoon

Tel : 27252373

 

Fax : 27252989

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address : Block D, 14F, Hong Kong Industrial Building Des Voeux Road West HK

Tel : 90159736

E-mail : hkdigiport@gmail.com

 

I have a Benro C228n6 - much better than my two Gitzo's!

The Sigma 10-20mm F4/5.6 is an excellent choice, I use mine on a D80 also. That extra 2mm at the wide end really does make a great deal of difference and it costs less than half the price of the Nikon 12-24!

You can download the PDF manual here - http://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/nikoneurope_en.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=10268&p_created=1086864643&p_sid=YhThW*Yi&p_accessibility=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MTUmcF9wcm9kcz04OCZwX2NhdHM9NjUwJnBfcHY9MS44OCZwX2N2PTEuNjUwJnBfc2VhcmNoX3R5cGU9YW5zd2Vycy5zZWFyY2hfbmwmcF9wYWdlPTE*&p_li=&p_topview=1

 

Regarding triggering the SB600 from the Sunpack - i've just tried that using a small gun to trigger but without success; I think you would need to use an additional trigger cell to fire the SB600 (in manual mode) that way; or else you could connect both guns via PC cords/adapters. http://www.jessops.com/Store/s9094/0/Slave-Units/Jessops/Minicell-Slave-Universal/details.aspx?&comp=n

Presuming you are shooting digital and not film, I would think the 18-70 would be the ideal choice since it fits neatly into your current lens line-up - it is the best of the 'kit' lenses and produces excellent results, it also weighs in at about 15oz as opposed to the 24oz of the 35-135 which would cover full frame if that is a consideration.

Have you tried the Canon ij Printer Utility to do a Nozzle check print? I expect one (or more) of the inks is clogged.

Don't forget to order the Dedicated Matched Multiplier and spare Li-ion batteries!

If you can afford $25,000 for a lens, you can afford the camera to use it with!

As others have already said, you do not have to limit your search to AF-S or USM (Sigma's equivalent) for the D80.

 

You will find pretty much any fixed focal length macro lens will be of high quality no matter who the manufacturer, more so than with other types of lens, eg zooms.

 

Personally I like the Sigma macros http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/macro.htm - I currently use the 50mm on my D80 and used to have the 105mm before I got the Nikon 105VR. I would look at the Sigma 70mm macro if I were after a single macro lens now, it is one of their more recent introductions and is already highly regarded quality wise; it is also a focal length that can double up quite nicely for portraits etc. on the D80.

There is only the SB-800, the only other thing it could be confused with is the SU-800, which is a commander unit not a flash.

You need to press the two buttons till 'for' appears, release them and then press the two buttons again within the aprox 10-15 sec window - it is the second press that will format the card.

Vicky, is that on all the files you are converting or just the odd one? The only time I have had that it was due I think to a NEF file having been corrupted before trying to convert.

Steve,

 

I have not tried the Sigma 80-400 but I did have the 135-400 version before updating to the Nikon 80-400. Whilst I had no complaints about the optical quality of the Sigma I did find the lens 'creep' very annoying, this is something several of the Sigma zooms suffer from, so I would check that out before buying (they may well have sorted it on the 80-400, I don't know).

 

I presume you are in the UK, due to your ?200 quote, in which case I think you will find the 'street price' of those lenses is much closer than you say, I am seeing the Sigma at ?827 and the Nikkor at ?884 (which is about ?200 cheaper than it was selling about a year ago!). That being the case I would go for the Nikkor.

 

It is a shame Nikon have still not updated the lens to AF-S (but then neither is the Sigma a USM); not being AF-S many on this forum criticize it's focusing, but I find it fine on my D80 - I doubt you would find a great deal of difference between it and the Sigma in that respect.

 

I am not anti Sigma - far from it - their macro lenses are second to none IMO - I have had numerous Sigma's, and currently use a 50mm macro, and all have been excellent (with the reservation of the creep on the long zooms already mentioned).

 

Nick.

Avoid the 'budget' ebay kits at all costs, you will probably be replacing them within a very short time.

 

The fact that the white lightning are 25 years old and still going strong says it all! as Van says the stands/brollies are probably worth that.

 

I don't know the white lightning brand (I am in UK where they are not sold) but I use Multiblitz lights which I bought used 20 years ago and are still going strong - stick with a top brand name if you decide to buy new, even if that means only being able to afford one light initially.