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nickwhite

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Posts posted by nickwhite

    Benro vs. Gitzo

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <p>Gary.<br>

    Sounds like you have bought one of the older (old stock?) Benro - <b><i>without</i> </b>the option of interchangeable feet!</p><p>It also would be lacking the anti-rotation leg feature.<br><br>

    <br><br>

    If it says C-427n (or n6) on it, then it should have been supplied with the spike kit - to change the feet the rubber ones just screw off anti-clockwise by hand and the spikes screw in clockwise and can be tightened with the spanner included in the 'kit'.<br>

    <br><br>

    BTW, the 'n6' versions are also much sturdier than the earlier ones - since my previous response in this post I have bought the C-358n6 and couldn't be happier with it (used with an Arca head).</p><p>http://photopal.co.uk/index.php?cPath=41&osCsid=e9515fa58e8be095983652f633622b5a<br><br>

    <br><br>

    If you did get the older one (which is probably at least 2 years old) from a reputable dealer, perhaps they will change it for the current one?<br>

    <br><br>

    Hope this helps, Nick.</p>

    mb-d80 and AA batteries

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Jon.

     

    Go to 'Custom Setting Menu - 32' on your D80 and you will find options to set it to Alkaline, Ni-MH, Lithium or Ni-MH.

     

    Using AA batteries in the MB_D80 should be regarded as an emergency measure only. Nikon quote 2500 shots with one EN-EL3 (5000 with two) but only 480 with Alkalines; also you do not get the 'Battery info' when using AA's.

     

    I would stick to using the EN-EL3 batteries - you have to remove the one from the D80 anyway (and the battery door cover) to fit the grip, so there is no reason not to use it in the grip itself. If you have two installed it will use up one first before switching automatically to the second.

     

    IMO the only reasons to get the grip are for the increased size - if you have large hands, or for the alternative command dials/shutter button; I have gone back to using the camera without the grip because I find those awkward - after 40 odd years of turning a camera clockwise for vertical shooting, I can not get used to having to turn it anti-clockwise AND have to shift my grip to do the same thing.

     

    If you were in the UK, I could offer you a very lightly used grip!

    Portable Storage Devices

    in Accessories

    Posted

    There is also the Digimate 11, I just got one from an ebay vendor in Israel (I'm in UK). It was far cheaper than the others mentioned (65 pounds incl post to UK) for a 120GB version. I've only been using it for a few days, but so far I'm very pleased with it, my only reservation being the appalling instructions - but it is very easy to use so that was not really a hardship.

    Need reccomendations for off-site flash system

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Forget those ebay ones! "Flash output: 80 w/s full power, 40 w/s on half power" - 80ws into a brolly will probably give you no more than F4 - 5.6 at about 6ft!

     

    I can't really comment on your flashguns since I use Nikon, but I am sure you could set them to reduced, eg half, power and they would still be more powerful than 80ws, and your battery life would be extended.

     

    If you want to get a strobe go for a 'name brand' with an absolute minimum of 200ws per head.

    Sigma 80-400 OS lens

    in Nikon

    Posted

    I am a fan of Sigma lenses, particularly their macro range, however I think you would be better getting the Nikon in this case.

     

    Firstly, as Eric says it is not HSM - and yet Sigma (UK) do state that it will AF on the D40/D60?! ie "The following Nikon fit lenses all include a built-in focusing motor and are fully compatible with the Nikon D40, D40x and D60." - the 80-400 is included in that list!

     

    The Sigma zooms seem to all suffer with 'zoom creep', I used to have the 135-400, if I put it over my shoulder on a tripod it would extend with such a clunk that more than once I thought the lens had actually fallen off! I notice they have incorporated a 'zoom lock' on this one to overcome that - but I can imagine lost shots when you have forgotten to unlock it. The Nikon 80-400's zoom stays exactly where you put it.

     

    The saving over the Nikon 80-400 is actually quite small - in the UK the saving is only 15% at 'street' prices. I've had the Nikon version for about a year now and certainly have not regretted trading in the Sigma 135-400 for it.

    novice question: calumet lighting kit problem_ [master/slave/sync issue?]

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    From your description you are obviously trigering via a sync cord not by the D80's flash.

     

    With the cord connected between the D80 and one of the Travelite heads, the other one should be triggered by it's in-built photocell - make sure that the photocell switch is in the 'on' position.

     

    The D80 should be in manual mode with the shutter speed set to 1/200sec or longer. Correct exposure is obtained using the aperture (f stops) on the camera - determined by a flash meter if you have one, or trial and error.

     

    The most likely cause of your problem is that the photocell on your second light is not switched on, and therefore not being triggered by the flash from the cord-connected light.

     

    When you have both heads flashing, if the pictures are still too dark you can either increase the power of the flash using the rotary dial on the side of the heads (it has a range of 1 to 6, 6 being the brightest), or using a wider (smaller f no) aperture.

     

    If you visit this page and click on 'Download the Travelite User Guide' - http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CE1452/ - page 4 gives a diagram of the Travelite controls etc.

    Tripod question: Benro C069 - Who has got one of those?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Thanks Steve -

     

    A less permanent alternative to loctite on the Torx type screw threads might be a tiny bit of ptfe tape round the threads (as used by plumbers, may be called something else in US?).

     

    Is the operation of the ball itself satisfactory? also the clamp/plate? - if it's only those screws that are a problem I think I could probably cope with that.

    film back

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I have three backs for my M645Super - all fit snugly, so yes I do think you should be concerned about light leak anyhow.

     

    There are two spring-loaded lugs on the back which locate with the corresponding L shape clamps on the body to lock the back in place - I suspect one of those lugs may be broken or maybe just not locking firmly; Do you have a second back? and if so does that one fit snugly?

     

    The light seal Edward mentions is very shallow on these backs.

    advise required.

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    One other thing; the difference in price between the 2 and 3 head standard kits is 475 pounds at Warehouse Express; to add an extra GM500 head (on it's own) is just ?359.

     

    For 475 quid you could buy a Skyport set (115) plus a Seconic meter L-308 (125) and still have 240 quid for backgrounds etc (or even a 250ws head)!

    advise required.

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Herman,

     

    I find it's best to work on the 'KISS' principle (Keep It Simple Stupid).

     

    The best way to get to grips with studio lighting is to use just one head initially and use a reflector to fill in the shadows, the spill from that light will often be plenty to light your background; only when you are confident of what you can and can't do with that set-up do you need to introduce your second light, which you can then choose to use for whatever purpose is needed for a particular subject, whether that be background, hair-light, fill or whatever.

     

    Eventually I think you will find that two strobes such as the Gemini's with a couple of reflectors will cover the vast majority of work. If you then do need extra light for a particular task you can use a camera flash for that (I see from your other posts you are also getting an SB600?) or a much lower powered (and therefore cheaper) unit.

     

    I'm not quite sure what you mean by 'easy to expand' - if you mean adding softboxes, snoots, barn doors etc then yes - Bowens and Elinchrom are the two most widely used systems in the UK by far. If you mean to add more heads later, then the answer is still yes; for instance if you find you need more power for larger groups, you could buy say a GM750 which would then be your main light, or for other regular tasks you might add a 250ws head; the point is to buy the extra head(s) only when you find you really need them. I have got by with 2 heads only for 20 years or so, just adding small flashguns or reflectors when and as required.

     

    Don't forget to budget for a flash meter - yes you can get away without one for digital but it is so useful, and you will certainly want one in the longer term - also you might want to add a radio trigger eg Elinchrom Skyport (recommended), or Pocketwizard (horribly overpriced in UK!).

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