a._valerio

<p>Danek:</p>

<p>PJ is photojournalism. I used the D1x again today in that capacity. The eyepiece Dk-17m can be used with an additional eyecup. There is no problem shooting with glasses, anymore than when the eyecup is normally used. I personally do not shoot with glasses, but it's workable; I used to.</p>

<p>Robert:</p>

<p>The D1H is noticeably cleaner at high ISO (by high, we're talking ISO 1600, not high by today's standard) than both the D1x and D200. I think Nikon derailed a bit in this regard with the D2/D200 generation. It wasn't until the D3 generation that they made serious improvements over their older models. Under some low light circumstances, the D1H can actually be clean at ISO 1600 without noise reduction. Therefore, the 2.7MP goes further. I have seen similar performance out of the D1x in those situations. I would put the D3/D700 at roughly 3 stops better than the D1H, and roughly 4 stops better than the D200, when comparing ISO 1600 on those cameras to HI-1 (12,800) on the D3 or D700 for an 8x12 inch print.</p>

<p>Will it gum up the pis if left there?</p>

<p>Also, the module itself has pins that interface with the flash when you put them together. I have no idea what the layout is, though.</p>

<p>Any other suggestions? I really need a good solution ot get this flash to stop being TTL.</p>

<p>What about using a non-Nikon module on the Vivitar meant for another camera brand?</p>

<p>I never used the D1, but I do indeed still use the D1x and D1H (as well as D200) for photojournalism.<br /> They're nicely made cameras, mechanically as good (better in some ways, like metal gears rather than plastic in the sequencing unit) as a D3 or D4.</p>

<p><br /> Batts are easy to find on ebay, and don't cost that much.</p>

<p><br /> The AF is faster and probably more accurate than the D200, and the 5 sensors take up relatively large areas, which can be nice. The viewfinder is also excellent (but you have to get the Dk-17m for it to be so).</p>

<p><br /> There are enough differences between the D1 and the later two models that I can't comment directly on the D1, but the H and X aren't bad for PJ shooting unless you're doing low light PJ stuff or want good auto flash or modern features. Otherwise, the older cams still can get the job done.</p>

<p>I tried the piece of film but it did not work. It wouldn't hold when sliding the flash in place. I went on assignment to shoot a race, and the flash became a paperweight on top of the camera.</p>

<p>I have a Vivitar 5600, and I want to turn it into a 285, basically (so it doesn't automatically set the sync speed). The modules are interchangeable, though I don't believe a non-dedicated module exists. Someone at B&H told me they do, but I've never seen one. I had considered purposely getting a module that wasn't for Nikon cameras, but people cautioned me not to do that, that I might short something out and damage the camera.</p>

<p>I'm still considering using a non-Nikon module. What brand wouldn't line up with Nikon hotshoe contacts though? Olympus???</p>

<p>Electrical tape or gaffer tape is out. What is sellotape? Someone mentioned to me a special tape that is used for electronics. Perhaps that is it. But I am skeptical that it will hold up to use, and/or not gum up the contacts in the process.</p>

<p>The flash has to be hotshoe-mounted. I'm using it for PJ work for fill-flash with a Nikon D1x in bright light outdoors (I can set almost any shutter speed by masking or removing the sync speed contact). The reason I bought the 5600 is that the head swivels for use indoors, and the flash permits the use of relatively wide apertures in auto mode, unlike the 285 (which I also have).</p>

<p>Don't ask...but for a strobist-like modification, I need to remove pins from a Nikon-type hotshoe flash. What is the best way to do this? I want to actually remove certain contacts from the foot.</p>

<p>Bought a T90 from a few months ago. It's so clean! He went through everything and made sure it was working right before putting it up for sale. He took the time to talk to me by phone for at least a half hour when I was contemplating the purchase. He also told me about a colleague of his who is working on a special FD project. Steve is Mr. Canon T90!</p>

<p>And yes, the shutters need to be fired regularly. He also told me that.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>What you are hearing is the pre-flash emitter on the flash coming on. If you haven't looked, you'll see at the front of the 540EZ every time you press the shutter button. The same thing happens with the 300TL by the way so I wouldn't worry about it.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Wow, that makes sense. Thanks! So, the preflash tube fires every time the shutter button is half-pressed?</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>as far as I know the T series flashes are for the t5- & t70 AND the ez series is for the film eos the ex is for the g series and the digital eos is there something I did noit see on the www OR does the t70 use a newer flash?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>We're talking about the T90 here. It can use either T-series or EZ-series units. The 300TL is the only T-series unit that provides the T90 with TTL flash control, but the EZ-series speedlites do, also.</p>

<p>I tried a 540EZ on a T90, and am getting a strong, sharp, short, capacitor-like "zinggg" or "whoosh" sound everytime I half-press the shutter button. It's similar to the sound you get if you put your flash unit near a radio and fire it.</p>

<p>What might this be, and is it going to damage the camera? Is it time to find a 300TL?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I just bought a used Vivitar 5600, and have a couple of questions.</p>

<p>Is there a non-dedicated (single contact) module available for the Vivitar 5600/5200? These flash units take the "PM" (processor module) series.</p>

<p>Also, I noticed that due to the recessed locking knob design, it's hard to tighten and loosen the flash unit. I can't get my fingers in there easily. I was thinking of filing away a bit of plastic near the base to make it easier. Am I missing something?</p>

<p>I may have to modify both the contacts and the plastic near the locking knob on a processor module to achieve what I need (single pin operation and secure coupling to the camera).</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Sorry to hear. My local Costco actually just <em>fixed</em> their film processor a couple of weeks ago! I believe one of the main electronic components of the computer was shot. They actually had a tech come in and replace the part. This is good, because I have 11 rolls to drop off this weekend. It seems they do approximately 10 rolls a day (not 100% sure, but judging by the serial numbers on envelopes).</p>

<blockquote>Shops like his service professionals from around the country. I know his clients include some famous institutions, NFL team photogs, and countless other groups of professionals and amateurs. I believe the promise of a business like his is personalized service, generally lower pricing than Nikon for repair, and fast turnaround.</blockquote>

<p>Agreed on all fronts...these guys are really good. I've done a bunch of business with them this past year, and will probably be sending in a Nikon lens next week. While it's too cost prohibitive for me to switch entirely to Canon all at once, I really don't think I'll be buying any more Nikon bodies or lenses after this. One issue is that I still have older bodies. If the manufacturer refuses to work on older bodies after a certain period of time, and parts aren't sold to independents, then where do we turn to get these things repaired? Might you be forced to throw out your F5 when it breaks down, for instance? There are only so many film bodies out there, and this number will decrease if we can't repair them.</p>

<p>And lot of people think they will still be able to buy rubber grips, battery doors, and terminal caps from Nikon as SLR users. They don't understand what this policy is about. If Nikon isn't going to sell to repair shops, they won't sell to SLR customers, either. Also, people don't understand that it costs like hundreds of thousands of dollars or more to be an authorized repair center...and Nikon may not even want any more of those regardless, even if somoene like Mark were willing to pay for it.</p>

<p>Will the E-series ones for EOS 630, etc, fit the T90?</p>

<p>Are there any currently available eyepiece correction lesnes that will fit on the T90?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>There is also Kodak T-Max P3200.</p>

<p>Just so everyone knows, there are several labs that will run short lengths (ie still lengths) of cine film through their processors for still photographers. One such lab is Cinelab in MA. Unfortunately their website is currently down for maintenance. There are probably others, too.</p>

<p>A problem with developing E6 film in C-41 chemistry is that E6 film requires a stabilizer with formalin in it. Modern C-41 chemistry does not have formalin in it. If you process the film without the formalin, the image will degrade over time. You almost never hear anyone mention this, probably because so few people are aware of it.</p>

<p>By the way...please drop me a line if you're interested in the following and if you do have a spare moment before the project is over...I have a few rolls of Kodachrome 40, KPA that I've been using, and I would like for you to have one of them to shoot...if you are interested. It's a teeny bit foggy in the deep shadows, but it still has that special Kodachrome 40 look to it, so if you are interested and there is a way to mail it to you at one of your stopping points in the next couple of weeks, I can do that...just let me know.</p>

<p>Dan!</p>

<p>Congratulations!</p>

<p>I suspected something major must have been happening to you.</p>

<p>I'm in no rush to do that interview...let me know when you actually have some free time again. ;-)</p>

<p>It often seems that spiritual decisions we make, like your initial one to go forth with this project, can take unexpected turns. Similar things have happened to me, where I have felt very strongly that I must do something that is difficult or challenging, and then life takes an unexpected, positive turn out of nowhere. Nothing quite like your story so far though.</p>

<p>Best wishes as you finish up your last rolls. I am finishing mine now, too.</p>

<p>B&H has them in stock, too. $7.95. Weird thing is the picture of the envelope doesn't have an address on it. Where does it go? Dwayne's?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Nice to see that they found a solution to this. Maybe I'll add a DK-19 on my next order of stuff from B&H to get that ring.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The piece comes with the DK-17m, not the eyecup. You can, however, call Nikon up and they will ship you the piece if you need it (possibly free of charge).</p>

<p>Contact PN member John Castronovo. He operates one of the best labs to offer film recording services in the US. His photo lab is called Technical Photo.</p>

<p>Ok, I shot my first ever lacrosse game this morning. It went pretty well. Thanks for the advice.</p>

<p>Duplicate post deleted.</p>