a._valerio

Terry,

 

Thank you very much. That softbox (the first one) is exactly what I had in mind! And the video was perfect!

 

Now I have to figure out which components to buy to make everything fit together properly.

I need a suggestion for a compact (15 inch or so) softbox to be used with a Nikon

SB-25 speedlight on a Stroboframe Pro-T flash bracket.

 

I have looked into a Morris Softbox:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=WishList.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=90032&is=REG

 

and also a Westcott Mini Apollo: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/62804-

REG/Westcott_2218_Mini_Apollo_Softbox_for.html

 

However, having never seen one in person, I can't figure out how these units would

attach to the portable Nikon flash unit, or if it's even strong enough to support one.

I've read everything on B&H's site, linked to related accessories, and have read the

info on the manufacturer's sites.

 

I'd prefer a box that allows the flash unit settings to be changed from the rear

easily. If that means shoot-through diffusion rather than rear-facing position of the

flash head, so be it.

 

I'm seeking recommendations on various boxes available from B&H and also the

components needed in order to attach them to the SB-25 or Pro-T bracket.

 

Thank you!

I'm using a D1h with the latest firmware, and one of my batteries is acting up. It

indicates half full, and the shutter won't release. Upon depressing the shutter

release button, the battery indicator flashes. I have refreshed the battery twice, but

it still won't allow shutter release. It is now on the charger for a third refresh (two

consecutive charge/discharge cycles).

 

The other battery from that batch (they are Lenmars version of the NiMh EN-4)

bought the same time works fine.

 

There was one time I removed the battery during image deletion because the

camera had pretty much slowed to a stop...but I'm not sure which battery it was,

or how having done that might kill the battery.

 

Any advice or anyone who has experienced a similar flashing half-battery indicator

on a D1-series body?

 

Thanks.

I like your line of thought! But, what do you base this upon other than current trends and your hope for the future (which is also my hope)? I just wonder why they would print them with an expiration date. Then again, Kodak did the same and they are still honoring them (Dwaynes is the processor there again).

 

I guess we just hope...

What I am about to tell you might sound unrelated to your question, and I may be beaten for saying it. However, it is the truth as I have learned it over the past 11 years. Not that long ago, I was in a similar position as you are now, just starting out and trying to learn photography. The main difference was that 10 years ago, digital was still new, primitive, and relatively weak (for the money you couldn't get a good digital camera like you can today).

 

So I used a Canon AE-1 and learned using film. Today, I use both digital and film, but am primarily film-based and still exploring. I just recently took a course on color photography (my first course in photography). In it, we shot color film and learned to make prints on a color enlarger in the dark. So that is my background.

 

Here is what I learned: photography is NOT about the technique or the equipment. I chose those words carefully. Yeah, technique and equipment can be crucial to a greater or lesser extent, but again, it's not ABOUT the technique.

 

I spent over a decade focusing on technique. It was all I knew, and every book, magazine, and website steered me in this direction. It was fun to learn how to do everything, but not too long ago, I felt like something was missing. There was a void in my pursuit and I wasn't sure what to fill it with.

 

Finally, at the urging of my photography teacher (the course was only several weeks long) I stopped focusing so much on technique, and started focusing on trying to create meaningful photographs instead. The technique I already knew turned out to be crucial, so I am not saying to ignore technique. On the contrary. Learn as much technique as you can, and practice it! But technique is a servant of art; it is not an end in and of itself, to be used for its own sake. It's designed to be used subconsciously to help you transfer your vision to a print. This is the experts actually mean when they say "learn as much technical stuff as quickly as possible and then forget it all".

 

I turned out ok, but only because I saved by a well-meaning soul before it was too late. I finally saw the light. In fact, I now see light, color, depth, texture, and can sense time whereas before I saw everything in two dimensions, with subdued color, and horrible timing. I already had the technical grounding and just needed a push. If I were doing it all over again, I'd focus on BOTH technique and art concurrently, right from the beginning.

 

What the heck does this very personal story have to do with digital versus film? My advice is to go with the flow and use whatever is available. Don't agonize over which is better when; just use them and experiment. Know how to use the camera so well that it "disappears" while you shoot (so that you can react sunconsciously and quickly).

 

I could get into a technical discussion about the merits of digital versus film, but that would tire me out. I just want to go out and make meaningful pictures that tell a story, teach us a lesson, or provide us with an intimate look at what's out there.

 

By the way, I ask lots of questions too, sometimes to the point of tiring people out. There are never too many questions...it's just that sometimes the answers are actually already inside of you and you didn't even know it.

 

So yeah, use the D50, use the AE-1, but most importantly, have fun and give yourself up to the flow of life.

Are all Fuji slide mailers subject to expiration or only the onesmarked as

such?

 

There is no phone number on them to call. Dwaynes was little help.

Sounds good.

 

Now what about the advantages and disadvantages of the Fuji versus Kodak?

Once again, does anyone have a concrete recommendation or opinion on the merits of these two tungsten films?

Yes, I want the blue - deep blue skys, almost neutral rendition of incandescant lights, etc. I may add a slight warming filter to get a tiny bit of the yellow back in the tungsten fixtures, but I still want the increased sensitivity and cooler color. Ideally, I'd filter to make a 3200K light 500K warmer than it would ordinarily appear with tungsten film.

 

I do like the colors that ordinary daylight film gives, but it's time to try something new for a change.

Now that we have agreed that they are both still made, could I have some help please?

And don't forget the ear plugs!

Fujicolor Superia or Press 1600, Kodak Portra 800, Fuji Pro 800Z, Fuji Provia 400X, Kodachrome 200, Kodak Tri-X, Kodak T-Max 400, Kodak P3200, Fuji Neopan 1600, Fuji Neopan 400, Ilford Delta 3200, Ilford Delta 400, Ilford HP5 Plus are all good for this sort of thing. You may wish to push-process.

I am looking to try tungsten film for nightscapes. I read here that the newest

version of the Fuji slide film had color balance issues. How do the various

versions of the Fuji stack up against Kodak EPY? And which version of the

Fuji is the one to avoid? What was the latest expiration date of the older Fuji

64T II? Did the newest one ever come in 100' bulk rolls or did Fuji phase

these out before it was introduced? I might be able to find the older one.

Otherwise, I will just go for the Kodak.

 

Thanks.

I've had good eperiences with old E6 film that has been frozen. Now I have

a roll of Fuji MS 100/1000 that I suspect had only been refrigerated since

the late 1990s/early 2000s. I am going to use it in a situation where I only

need b&w images, just in case the color is wacked out.

 

I suspect it might have lost some speed. Is it worthwhile to rate at EI 80, or

is that risky because of the latitude of slide film? I shot some really old

frozen Ektachrome Elite 400 at EI 320 recently, and it did pretty well. Keep

in mind I will be scanning and dense slides are tough to deal with.

 

Thanks.

I recently shot some Kodak Ektachrome Elite 400 (I believe it's two versions ago and must have been from the mid to late 1990s) that I bought from a photographer. He said he had it frozen all the time. I rated it at EI 320, and it came out usable, if slightly warm.

I suppose I could trim a foot or so off of each roll. But by the time I do that On all of them, I will probably have wasted 10 feet of film...the equivalent of several rolls.

30 clicks on the lodaer gave between 40 and 46 usable frames on the rolls I did.

So my bulk loader got messed up, and I found out that a bunch of rolls got

loaded with waaaay too many frames. The way I found out, was to run the film

through the camera with the lens cap on.

 

Now, I've got rolls with 41, 45, 47, and in at least one case, even 48+

(possibly more) frames. They seem to fit onto the take-up spool in the camera

just barely. In a camera with a metal rewind shaft, I'm not too concerned

about the extra tension. I'm sort of worried about scratches, and I'm not sure

how I'm going to fit the rolls onto my Patterson plastic reels. Someone

mentioned letting several frames hang off the reel (the purists will cringe at

this).

 

So I'm wondering if I can get away with using the shorter of these rolls (45

usable frames or 51 counting the front leader ad the last two blank frames

that were exposed to light while taping in the loader.

 

There was a thread the other day about doing this intentionally by an

underwater photographer who wanted to avoid having to resurface to change

film. But in this case, the counter of my loader has become highly inaccurate

and at least a bit erratic. If it matters, it's an Alden model 74.

Typically you have about one year if the film is fresh until the date marked.

Thank you for the reminder.

Craig,

 

Same here. In fact, I think I looked at the site last month and 400 was still listed. I got quite a surprise yesterday when I went on.

 

Guess what...while ELite Chrome 100 and 200 are definitely still current products, they've been backordered for several weeks or more at B&H and Adorama. Who knows...your guess is as good as mine.

"Kodak still produces Elite Chrome 400 and Elite Chrome 100 Extra Color."

 

Just to clarify.

 

Elite Chrome 400 is no longer listed on the Kodak website under consumer film. It was apparently discontinued along with Ektachrome 400x several months ago. B&H and Adorama no longer list it.

 

Elite Chrome Extra Color (EBX) is only available as an import, and few retailers stock it. It is not a domestic US product, apparently. Maybe you can order it direct from Kodak...I have no idea since I've never tried. It is, in any case, still listed on their consumer slide film page along with Elite Chrome 100 & 200 and Kodachrome 64.

Ektachrome 64T is still made. Kodak currently has ten 35mm slide films available for US sales:

 

ISO 64 daylight: 2 films: Kodachrome 64 PKR and KR (K-14)

 

ISO 64 Tungsten: 1 film: Ektachrome 64T EPY (E6)

 

ISO 100 daylight: 5 films: Ektachrome 100 Plus EPP, Ektachrome E100VS, Ektachrome E100G and GX, and Professional Elite Chrome 100 (E6)

 

ISO 200 daylight: 2 films: Ektachrome E200 and Professional Elite Chrome 200 (E6)

Dan,

 

I think the CVS thing is worth the savings. The biggest issue other than Qualex people getting confused (see below) is probably the risk of the paper envelope ripping open.

 

I write "Kodachrome slides - process K-14 in big letters under special instructions and circle it. I also label the roll with my name using a Sharpie, and I tape the canister closed with a label saying, "Kodachrome. Process K-14!" I also tape the envelope to make sure it doesn't open in transit. Also, you need to hold onto your tear-off receipt.

 

It's $6 for a 36 exp roll and takes 2 weeks.

Nicolas,

 

You can actually get it processed for $6 per roll through CVS or Walmart. Just label everything carfully. Two weeks to get it back.

 

Yeah, scanning it takes practice and patience (and maybe a drum scanner to do it the best).

 

High school is a perfect time to try (and retry) new things! You could always get better scans down the road...

 

But yeah, you guys are absolutely right...it's not going to be around much longer. It's great that it's still around right now. And with Elite Chrome 100 and 200 backordered at B&H for the past few months, I think it might be around longer than they will.