alfaromeo

For the quick sharpening I usually use the smart sharpen at 100/1/0 setting for all images and after resize down to upload to the internet or other purposes use unsharp mask at 200/0.3/0. Works good so far. Try the same image and see if there is any difference

canon sd800is

i meant to say on 1.6 crop body, not full frame, sorry

yes it will

not to bag on your post, but do you think 24mm is wide on 1.6 crop body, thats 38mm on full frame

I have a Canon 10-22mm for sale in classifieds, let me know if interested

I have both. Ther are very good lenses indeed. Even though the 10-22 will give you unique wide angle shots, the 17-40 has much better sharpness, contrast and color rendition. The 17-40 is also better build than 10-22. If I had only one , I would be extremely happy with either, but since I have both, I see a little difference. But you cant go wrong with either.

I am going to buy a compact digital camera soon. I narrowed my choice to these

two Panasonic LX2 and Canon G7. I have held both in my hands and like them

both. What I need from the camera is a good image quality, good IS, simple and

understandable controls, ability to switch between modes or ISO without going

into menu/submenu. I can live with JPEGs, so RAW is not really that important

here, same as LCD/ viewfinder. As an alternative to these two I also keep my

eye on the Canon SD800IS, in case I dont buy either of the above mentioned two.

Please, push me into the right direction, especially those who had any

experience with these cameras, I will greatly appreciate this. <p> P.S. I know

it is sort of qeustion that people ask a lot, so dont flame me please.

I was curios about this thing as well. I bought my 30D which was suppose to be brand new, an it really was, meaning all packed well, no spots, no dust, no marks. I also bought a brand new CF card, but when I made my firs shot with it the image number was something like IMG_2352. To this day I have no idea if the camera was new or not.

i agree whith what has been said above. I own this lens and your picture looks OK to me. Why other pictures on the net looks sharper--because people use sharpening before posting, try it and see.

color profiles are stored in WINDOWS>SYSTEM32>SPOOL>DRIVERS>COLOR folder. If you do not rename the color profile after you calibrate one monitor , it will be overwritten when you do the second . And make sure you disable Adobe Gamma

First you have to make one monitor primary and calibrate it. Then change the name of the newly created profile to something like lets say Monitor1 . Then make the other monitor primary, and do the same, rename the color profile to Monitor2 . Then go to settings > control panel> display > settings and make one monitor primary, lets say M1 and the other M2 secondary. You can check the assignment by clicking ' identify ' button. Dont forget to check ' extend the desktop ...' for the second monitor. . Then you have to select each monitor and go to advanced > color management > add appropriate color profile from the list and hit ' set as a default' and apply. Do the same to the other monitor. After you restart the computer you will see that two different color profiles were loaded to the video card for each monitor.

Why do you rule out 17-40? If I were you I would get this lens ( I actually did). It is not superwide, but for what you intend to do it is a perfect choice. Very sharp and tough build L lens, and it is the same price as 10-22mm if not a tad cheaper. Plus there will be no need to use your 18-55 kit lens, so no swapping anymore. As for the 10-22mm, it is a very good lens indeed

agree with those who suggested 17-40 and 70-200 f/4 L lenses. Both are very good L series lenses and relatively cheap. You can get both for around $1100. Both are extremely sharp and very well built and will cover most of what you will ever need. You may also consider a prime 50mm f/1.8 lens which is cheap and excellent lens to fill the gap between 40 and 70mm.

adoramapix is good as well, and also they have custom ICC do download

spyder 2 express colorimeter and a lot of useful information here http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm

and you have a very nice portfolio, nice BWs.

sorry , one more thing. The file's color spaces should be the same as Photoshop's WorkingSpace . Sharpen is the last step before you upload

forgot to add something. Before you convert the file to sRGB, make sure you soft proof it with sRGB, because if you dont like what you see, you may have to continue editing it. Soft-proof with sRGB simulates the look of the image on most monitors.BTW, what application do you use for editing? I assume it is PS or PS CS2. There is an example of the workflow here http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm

must have:<p>1. calibrated monitor<p>2. correctly assigned color profile (if the file does not have one assigned after you scan)<p>3. correct working color space in PS<p>4. convert the file to sRGB after you finish editing and before you upload to PN.<p> 5. If the file is resized down for web you will have to sharpen it ( usually unsharp mask at 200% 0.3 radius, 0 threshold works fine, but may vary depending on the image)

taking into consideration how the image looked before I think you did a pretty good job. Share you recipe, please

Multiply blending mode, channel mixer ( green channel R=30, G=0, B=70), levels, healing brush set to lighten<p><center>

<img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/1-1.jpg" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br>

</center>

multipy blending mode, channel mixer, levels, clone and healing.

you can soften the image like this in many different ways, like blur, soft focus, etc.

You will have to read this to have an idea http://vrya.net/ts/photoshop7.php. This is for PS 7 though, but it might work for Elements 4.0, but im not sure. The whole idea behind is you create a layer and add a mask to it right away. Any changes you did to the layer, like softening the image overall ( this example), you can undo selectively by painting with black brush the area you want to conceal, like eyes in this example. You can even do it backwards. Create a layer + mask and apply sharpening, then hit Ctr+ backspace to fill the mask with black and hide the sharpening effect. Then by painting the eyes with white brush you reveal the sharpening effect just in the area where you painted.