alfaromeo

17-55 is very good indeed and it is IS lens, however, for your trip 10-22 will do better if you're gonna shoot sceneries, landscapes. If you are not planning on shooting wide angle, 17-55 will be more than you need and it has more "reach" also. Skip 50/1.4 for now. If you want prime 50mm then get 1.8 version, it is cheaper and very good lens, and sharper then 1.4.

I would get NEC Multisync LCD 2070NX

<i>The Samsung line offers several different flat screens with the highest contrast ratio available in this price range: 3000:1</i> <p> this is what it does not have to have to be a good monitor.

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you mean you should have gotten G7?<p>

For those who asked why I posted this question: the only thing Im concerned about is the image quality, especially noise at ISO 400 at most ( don't care about higher ISO). I think there is quite a difference besides LCD size, RAW and price. Is 12.1 MP DIGIC III worse than 10 mp DIGIC II after all noise reduction and other algorithms applied? That is the question I find the most difficult to answer

If Canon G9 did not have a RAW, had the same LCD size and cost the same as Canon

G7, which one would you get and why?

post a full size picture, please, or give a link to it if you want to hear the verdict

I bought brand new 30D and because "used" CF was used at the beginning the numbering started from whatever the next number was on CF. I asked this in the store, it is normal

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when you turn it on do you move the switch all the way up or just put it on "ON" position

used G7

next time try to put a little smaller version of the image. Your image looks good color wise but it is a little underexposed. Adjust exposure compensation + and take a picture of the same scene, and see if there is any difference.

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maybe I misunderstood the question, but cant you do VIEW > THUMBNAILS

30D

I own one and it works great

I believe it is the same as V100 then see <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00IwL9">here</A>

used Canon G7

also keep in mind that the first one is the emiting light vs reflective on the print. Also since you view the print at daylight the darkroom or the monitour area should be lit close to daylight as well. I found when my room has the same lightning conditions as where I look at the prints, the image on the screen is much dimmer and pretty much resembles the prints. That's why I always make the pictures brighter on the screen than normal when I work in the dark environment

I found the LCD screens display much brighter image than it is in reality, unless you have some super expensive one designated for photo works, thats why the prints look darker. Try to calibrate it and then turn the contrast down a little to match the print. I had to buy a CRT to get it close. Also what kind of the LCD is yours? Those with the high contrast ratio prone to contrsast mismatch.

Is your monitor a LCD monitor?

epson v100 cheap and good quality scans with the Epson software

<i>German AC power is different</i><p>

just need a plug adaptor, all newer AC adaptors/ chargers operate in 100-240V region