hoshisato
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Posts posted by hoshisato
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<p>Would the Hewes reels for 35mm fit into a Paterson System 4 tank? With the central column of these tanks, and all?</p>
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<p>Unfortunately you don't tell us where you are, but if you are in the UK, you could use the Ilford Labs for development and enlargement of any black and white film: http://www.ilfordlab.com/<br>
I have used them for film development and was very happy with the results.</p>
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<p>Sadly the whole film is affected and fogged. I might have had a light leak when putting the film in the tank when using the changing bag, I just want to make sure that the problem could not have happened because of developer pollution, or something similar. I tried refixing but that didn't help.</p>
<p>As for different size syringes, I buy mine via Amazon.co.uk: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sterile-Catheter-Veterinary-Syringes-Singles/dp/B001A38JNQ/<br>
They come in different sizes and are pretty cheap.</p>
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<p>Thanks, I'm using a Patterson changing bag and I might have been careless closing it tightly. I doubt the camera is the issue as I have developed film I shot after that film without issues.<br>
The light leak has affected all of the film very evenly if this is a clue as to what happened.</p>
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<p>Hi, I developed a Rollei Retro 400S film 35mm film in Rodinal 1:50 and fixed it with Ilford Rapid Fixer 1:4 for 4 minutes. The film came out very dark with the sprocket area and the area between the negatives also being very dark and not transparent as I would have expected. Do you have any idea what could have gone wrong? The developer was freshly mixed and the fixer had been used one time a couple of days ago without trouble and was stored in a bottle without air on top.<br>
<br /> Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi, I shot some Fuji Acros at EI 64 and am looking for suggestions to use either Rodinal or HC-110. I use these developers because of their shelf-life. Most photos were taken at sunny days, some with a yellow or red filter to emphasize the clouds and sky.<br>
<br /> Since the Massive Dev Chart has no entries for this film for either developer at EI 64, could you also suggest developing times at 20C and agitation? I usually use HC-110 at dilution 'H' and Rodinal at 1:50 or 1:100.</p>
<p>Thanks<br /> ----<br />http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/</p>
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<p>Thanks everybody!</p>
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<p>Hi, I did google this question but there are so many answers that I'm more confused than before, sorry :-)</p>
<p>I got hold of some Fuji Neopan 400 and Neopan Acros 100 and I'll be taking it with me on my citybreak to Lisbon where the subject will be cityscapes; the forecast is sunny with a chance of rain and I will be out there early mornings, but unavoidably also during the afternoons when the shadows are likely to be deep. I will be developing the films most likely in HC-110 or Rodinal (I use these because of their shelf-live). What would the EI be that you would recommend for either film?</p>
<p>Thanks<br>
---<br />http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/</p>
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<p>An additional question: If I have taken a film out a film out of the freezer but leave it unopened, is there an issue putting it back in when I didn't need it on a trip?</p>
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<p>I can read the imprinted info just fine on ADOX film, but have to set it to the lowest imprint value to be able to make it out on Ilford film of the same speed, and even then it is sort of over exposed. I love my MZ-S, however, really a great camera.<br /> <br /> I have used my Pentax M lenses on my MZ-S and it works fine, much better than on my K20D which has the crippled mount. I select the aperture I want to use and the built-in lightmeter uses the selected setting for the exposure correctly.<br /> <br /> See here for examples of my MZ-S with my 32 years-old SMC Pentax-M F/1.7 50mm lens on F/22: http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/p/273 and F/1.7: http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/p/272</p>
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<p>7dayshop.com has good deals for film and are tax free for orders under £20 and have free shipping: http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1&products_id=8370<br>
They're shipping from Guernsey so the only drawback is that it usually takes a week for the films to arrive.</p>
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<p>Same here, I used to buy it via Retro and now I buy it via Ag Photographic. The couple of times I have used them the delivery was quick.</p>
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<p>Thanks everybody!</p>
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<p>What agitation would you recommend for HC-110 dilution H for HP5+ at boxspeed? I used one inversion every 30 seconds and the results were rather grainy.</p>
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<p>Apparently it is classified as a repro toxin and since a save alternative exist as cleaning product, it sort of makes sense to have it removed from the shelves. Ah well, it looks like I'll have to visit the Silverprint shop. Thanks everybody.</p>
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<p>I would like to experiment a little by adding some borax to my Rodinal developer, but I cannot find any borax in the supermarkets. Where do you buy your borax, UK members?</p>
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<p>I host my blog myself and had no problems setting up a blog with Pixelpost from http://www.pixelpost.org/ and there are plenty of attractive templates available. All for free.</p>
<p>Have a look at the results: http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/</p>
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<p>I had been using DSCL a lot (http://www.dscolourlabs.co.uk/documents/DSCLBWMAILORDERFORM_006.pdf) and they were okay but then I started using the above mentioned Ilford service which I would recommend. No idea how the situation outside the UK is.</p>
<p>Only recently I have been going back to developing my own films and really start enjoying that. I don't have a darkroom but bought a Patterson change bag. So far so good.</p>
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