sngreen

Lovely images,

- Sergey

Congratulations!

- Sergey

<em>You need an Adadtall-2 to Four Thirds adapter, preferably with a

Dandelion chip.</em><br>

I did not pay attention it was adaptall to OM. Yes, Beth would need OM to Four Thirds adapter as well.

<br>

- Sergey

If you plan on using Tamron adaptall lenses then why not? If you already have them. If not then you do not need it.

I wanted to use Tamron sp90 lens back when there were no Sigmas for Olympus mount available yet, so I had Olympus OM adapter to adaptall-Tamron-sp90 in Nikon mount. It worked fine, and was fairly inexpensive solution for longer reach macro lens on E-500. When I bought Nikon I even used the same lens without adapter few times. Now it is probably not worth it, since these days there are more lenses available for Olympus and if you mount lenses via adapter you still get only manual focus and without confirmation.

Which lens would you use it with?

- Sergey

Very often I go through my old images that were taken some more than a year ago, and with different cameras. The ones I like I pull out and add to my galleries. I do not know if it makes sense, but I think it often shows how and what I have learned, helps to see things I disregarded at the time when I saw them first, and certainly adds to the list of what to look for next time. It can not be bad thing. And if I come across the image that I DO like I will not hesitate to put it up for critique as to what the others think of it as well. There are many ways to learn, some things do work, some don't, but forum critique is definitely a good indication for photographer to know if he sees the right thing or not. Even if it happens to be an image that was not shot in the last weekend. IMHO.

- Sergey

Zuiko 50mm is fine also, but it is not a true 1:1 macro lens. It is a very good closeup and portrait lens though.

E-500 is not a weather sealed body (although it can take few drops), so weather sealed lens may not necessarily be the first criterion.

- Sergey

<p>Here is the pdf

<a href="http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=146&topic_id=41468&mesg_id=41468">

( link )</a></p>

<br>

- Sergey

I misread, I thought you meant 150 (and not 105). I would still go for 150 instead of 105, although I hear nothing but good comments from 105 owners as well.

- Sergey

There are pluses and minuses for both lenses (35mm zuiko and 150mm sigma). In most cases, if you really get into the macro photography, the distance to the subject may not necessarily matter. As to catch good shots you will have to get up early when most bugs are still sleepy and not active.

The 35mm is easier to hold without shake, it is VERY sharp, and works very well with external flash mounted on top of the camera. The 150mm is also sharp, it will allow you to shoot from a distance, but it is harder to hold this lens steady with stopped down aperture.

I have them both, except sigma 150 is for Nikon (I use it on both D200 and D300) and I do think that one can shoot bugs with 35mm just fine. When I was using 35mm more often I think I had as good success rate with it as I do now with Sigma on Nikon. Although it is good to try both worlds. Plus you can not go wrong with Sigma 150, as it is an excellent portrait lens as well.

- Sergey

Almost forgot,

http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=show_topics&forum=146

- Sergey

The photozone.de as already mentioned.

See also http://www.slrgear.com/reviews

- Sergey

By his work I meant.

- Sergey

Thanks Hajo,

I have no intention to use it as regular macro lens, but thought to try it as reverse lens. This darn thing however gets so dark when stopped down that it is almost impossible to see the subject. I thought the bigger ff lens (??:)) would let more light into the mirror chamber (although much of it would fall off) thus allow easier focusing.

I thought Nikon would be better option of course. I am inspired by this guy,

http://blog.mdsign.nl (see information)

I asked him few times about the lens he uses, he says it is Sigma most of the time.

Thanks Hajo,

- Sergey

Does anyone know if Sigma 24/2.8 macro is indeed a full frame lens or if it is

an aps-c variant? The reason I am asking is that the back lens in it is less

than 2cm in diameter, whereas (as an example) the back glass in Nikon 50/1.4 (or

most of any ff lenses) is almost 3cm.

I am planning to use this lens as reverse for macro, but wondering if this

indeed a good solution when stopped down.

Thanks,

- Sergey

<P><I>Asking others what to buy in this situation is only inviting

people to trumpet their choice, which doesn't tell you anything.</I></P>

Excellent!

For 724g it is not quite a pocket camera. In usage it is good for landscapes or stationary objects. It is almost useless for sports or most that is moving.

I do not know what your deal is, but in comparison if you really want to have P&S that is light and *very* good then I would look into Sigma DP1. It has CMOS Foveon dSLR like sensor in it and weighs 270g only.

http://www.sigma-dp1.com

Or even Olympus' own E-4xxx and E-5xx models.

Things I did like about C-8080,

* Excellent colors and resolution

* Live view

* Macro option

Things I did not like about it,

* Extremely slow (it takes about 5 to 8 seconds to write raw file)

* Relatively heavy for P&S camera

* Not the best placement of buttons

- I was often pressing 'OFF' instead of the shutter.

- Sergey

If you want to learn the camera Nikon digitutor is always a good start,

http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d80/index.shtml

- Sergey

D60 looks almost the same size as E-420.

- Sergey

DNG would be only useful if the brands (Nikon, Canon, Olympus, etc.) agreed to support it. So far the best colors from Nikon I get through Capture NX, which unfortunately (?) does not support DNG format.

I do not know, perhaps the latest variants allow true raw to be embedded into one file, for backward compatibility, but I see very little benefit in the format that only certain raw converters (mostly from Adobe) are able to process.

- Sergey

Absolutely wonderful!

Thank you :)

- Sergey

Josh, so I take it there is no way to lift the limit on the size of the images (for the galley)?

Another question; when directly linking the images, I also noticed they get somehow downsized - is this the feature of the browser or is there some setting within the site? As here,

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00PUAw

Thanks,

- Sergey

My first digital cameras were also Olympus (C-8080, E-500) but I find it is easier to compose with 3:2 aspect ratio than with 4:3. It (3:2) is wider for landscapes, one needs to tilt the camera less for verticals, and and the rule of third just works kind of better (and easier) with wider frame. Having used Nikon longer than Olympus now I find 4:3 even somewhat uncomfortable, if it makes any sense. IMHO of course.

- Sergey

Nikon 85/1.8 (or 1.4) would be my first take. If this is for portraits only. The 1.8 is *very* good wide open.

- Sergey

The DoF should remain the same with

1) the same focal length lens

2) the same distance to to the subject

3) the same aperture

The difference comes when the crop factor is introduced, where to maintain the same field of view one would need to use shorter (and wider) lens (to what is mounted on larger sensor cameras). And that shifts the entire equation off.

I think 1/1.8" sensor (which is in P5000) has something like around 4.6-4.8 (diagonal and horizontal) crop factor (to 35mm equivalent). So f/7.7 on P5000 should be close to around f/24 on D60 (1.5x crop). Even at f/2.8 on P5000 (and I do not know if it allows it) you would need to set D60 to around f/9 to make it DoF equivalent. I think from this point on you would need to be very close to the subject to see any incremental difference.

Hope that helps.

- Sergey

There we go. I do not know if that is how it is to be posted, but I think that should work. Some travel snaps with Tokina 12-24/4 on D200 and D300.

<br><br>

- Sergey

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