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sngreen

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Posts posted by sngreen

  1. I did have the same problem with it on 3.2Ghz single core Pentium. The program was almost unusable. Updated yesterday to dual core and that whole thing now just flies, absolute pleasure to work with. Perhaps there is something with you computer, like some other programs are taking too many resources or something blocking it. I do not know, slow performance for a 3-week old computer does sound kind of strange, but I did not notice NX2 to be any slower than NX1.3 either. In fact I did think it was more like the other way around.

     

    Go through your settings, check on few Mac forums, I am almost sure there is more to it than one single program only.

     

    - Sergey

  2. <br /><p><em>The 50 .18 AF D is a sharper lens than my 50 1.4. and is more flare free.

    Professional reviews have always said this about the Nikon 50 way back to 1960.</em><br />

    <br />

    <br />

    Ronald, I am not so sure. It is sharper when both compared at wide open. But if

    you compare them at the same settings it may not be quite so. In fact more like

    the opposite is true. Compare here f/8 on 1.8 version against f/2 on 1.4 version,<br />

    <br />

    <a

    href="http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/46-nikon--nikkor-aps-c/218-nikkor-ai-s-50mm-f18-review--lab-test-report?start=1">

    50/1.8</a><br />

    <br />

    <a

    href="http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/46-nikon--nikkor-aps-c/216-nikkor-af-50mm-f14-d-review--lab-test-report?start=1">

    50.1.4</a><br />

    <br />

    Not a statement, just an observation. I see very often wider aperture range lenses do get lower ratings in

    reviews and comparisons. Comparing these same lenses at the same settings often reveals that they are in fact

    better than their higher scoring rivals.

    <br />

    <br />

    - Sergey

  3. One of the most obvious issues with this lens on D3 is vignetting (which I clearly see in your image and) which

    is (clearly) not caused by the optical inaccuracy. Since mostly vignetting on this lens happens at the long end

    (and wide open) it can easily be recognized as the result of the light being blocked by its own narrow front

    elements or even the lens hood. It is not necessarily a bad thing, but the dp trolls and fans of course picked on

    that very fast and now you see the "faults" mentioned in almost every dp post where this lens comes into the

    discussion.

     

    Your image is fantastic!

     

    - Sergey

  4. Mine was made in China and I bought it almost 2 years ago brand new. I agree it is softish wide open but gets very good past f/2.8 and on. Stop it down to f/2 at least if you want to have both worlds from it.

     

    <P>Although I do not use it much for me it is much worth the price. Chinese build of course leaves something to be desired, I'd much rather have it made in Japan.

     

    <P>This is wide open (on D300),

     

    <P>

    <IMG SRC="http://i.pbase.com/o4/83/694283/1/99536052.5bU0tezd.JulyDSC_6937_FR_.jpg"><BR><BR>

     

    <P>Stopped down to f/2.2 (on D200)

     

    <P><IMG SRC="http://i.pbase.com/o6/83/694283/1/78453558.EdD2J5mj.JPGDSC_0587_FR_.jpg"><BR><BR>

     

    <P>Stopped down to f/4 (D200), sharp across the frame,

     

    <P><IMG SRC="http://i.pbase.com/o6/83/694283/1/78453557.kKXAJ9i9.JPGDSC_0585_FR_.jpg">

     

     

    <P>-Sergey

  5. I noticed two specs back in April after I shot few macros at smaller apertures. I brushed it off with arctic butterfly (less than 5 minutes work) and never saw a single spot again. So it does seem as if the bunnies I cleaned came from the factory and I had just never bothered to look for them. I never saw a single spot since then, although I shoot at smaller apertures almost regularly now.

     

    Word of advice, when changing lenses always keep the camera down and always look if the back of the lens you are about to put on is clean. The dust that is on the back of your lens will sooner or later find its way into the places from where it is harder to remove it. Also always keep your camera down, even when not using it.

     

    - Sergey

  6. <P><I>Yep, noiseless it is. . </I><BR><BR>I do see noise but it is

    not that bad. There have been numerous posts in the Internet forums

    about Nikon's blue sky noise and this is just one of them... I

    personally do like this image a lot but I would clean the noise just

    a little bit to make it even nicer. To my eyes at least. <BR><BR>-

    Sergey

  7. It is to be expected since the Bayer pattern does not repeat blue (and neither red). The blue photosites also

    happen to be the least sensitive to light, which explains why the blue channel is always the noisiest. It is not

    hard to clean it though (once you know what it is), especially when there are no other patterns that can be

    altered in the process, ex. blue sky, smooth backgrounds, etc.. Nice image, I like it a lot.

     

    - Sergey

  8. Sometimes I have similar "experiences" with their updates and I think it has something to do with the region you are in, as the update downloads but does not allow to install, or it installs but does not register as updated, etc. Kind of annoying but I can live with it. Just download the update when there is one and turn the rest off.

     

    - Sergey

  9. <P><I>I like tokina lenses, I also like my Nikkor lenses. </I><BR><BR>Ralph,

    Do you find Tokinas do usually produce somewhat cooler than

    Nikon results?

    <BR><BR>- Sergey

  10. Tamron 17-50/2.8 for 17-55DX and Sigma 150 for 70-200. Prime 150 is not flexible but if you are comfortable with primes this lens can be very rewarding for when shooting portraits. Here are few street snaps,

     

    http://www.pbase.com/sngreen/image/93762651

     

    http://www.pbase.com/sngreen/image/94026209

     

    http://www.pbase.com/sngreen/image/93762633

     

    http://www.pbase.com/sngreen/image/93796579

     

    http://www.pbase.com/sngreen/image/93796063

     

    ..and so on.

     

    - Sergey

  11. I had D200 in the past and now D300, but frankly the dropping 5D price is often tempting. I really like their fast primes, like 50/1.2L, 35/1.4L, 24/1.4L, and so on. And it is a good camera still. Will probably be for a while.

     

    Nikon on the other hand is catching up fast. The D200 was somewhat noisy, but D300 is very good. And D3 is of course the king. I like Nikon colors and absolutely love ergonomics. I do not know what I would do, I still would probably wait till the next FF Nikon camera is out. I do not think it will be long.

     

    - Sergey

  12. <p><em>Sergey... When I started to read that is exactly what I thought! They are

    a portable back up hard disk.</em> <br />

    <br />

    Thanks Rene' for clarifying. I thought so also, I even googled for it, but could not

    find anything that would seem relevant. <br />

    <br />

    I think this devices have improved over the last few years. I use Vasonic,

    plugged in large hd from the older laptop few years ago and off we go. The good thing about these devices is that even if the battery dies the images remain on the hd. I usually plug mine in in a hotel while downloading the images from the cards, and it charges at the same time.

    Very cool little device.</p>

    - Sergey

  13. The easiest is the dedicated macro lens. Add tubes when necessary. Then add tripod and/or flash.

     

    The 50mm will only get you closer (maybe), but there are so many limitations that 1:1 (in this focal length) is just plain not worth it. To gain more magnification you need wider lens, like 28, 24, etc, anything that has the same filter thread as the reverse ring adapter. See here,

     

    http://www.nikonlinks.com/unklbil/macro_adapter.htm

     

    - Sergey

  14. The compression effects do show. I was posting about it about a month ago and can no longer find the post. I think the artifacts depend on how large the original image was and how much compression was applied to it. Some still do look good, others don't.

     

    I think larger default view would not be a bad idea at all. Without asking how large - say, whatever was uploaded. And the users will see if it works or does not for themselves. Same as with pbase, there is small, medium, large, and original. The last (original) is of course always the best. And I have seen posts even in pbase forums where users where asking if the default to original could be set without cookies. When sending the link to someone else I think the default always will open as large there. You only have to open the image as original once and then all others will show as original as well, but not the first time.

     

    In short it would be a nice feature to have the default size set per gallery (or user), so that the images would show exactly as they were processed.

     

    - Sergey

  15. What you are holding down is probably DoF preview.

     

    Let's walk through it, the aperture is supposed to go down (get smaller) when number increases, but the lever (that connects it to the camera) should hold it (aperture) in a wide open position till you actually press the shutter button. It is released very fast during the shutter activation to the position of your setting and then comes back to the open again. In other words on camera the lens will always remain open till the actual picture is taken. It opens and closes when the lens is not mounted, but it will not close when it is on the camera. That is how it works on most cameras, but this functionality is completely lost in the Olympus dSLRs when new "digital" (in quotes) lenses are not used. So something must be either not right with your adapter or the lens. I can not tell you more when not seeing it.

     

    No, you are not supposed to hold anything when shooting.

     

    - Sergey

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