Wilmarco Imaging

Yes, good idea to mount the lens and open the shutter in B. Open the body film door with the shutter open, and shine a bright light into the lens, and see if you can get a clear image of the situation.

Agreed. Is there no way to open the shutter and see through the lens?

Thanks ralf. The image posted first, with sprocket marks, which frame number is it on the roll? Closer to #1, or closer to #36?

Hard to see it in the photo. Can you post another photo with the shutter and aperture blades open, with a light shining through the lens, toward the camera?

Processing, sprocket related marks, as Joe said. Where in the tank (top or bottom) was the Kentmere located? Which frame on the roll was this image, which is pictured above?

Free for shipping, let's say $5 in the US, actual cost for international. Sony ADP-AMA hot shoe adapter, new and unused. https://www.sony.com/electronics/int...sories/adp-ama Adapts Minolta Maxxum/Sony Alpha iISO hot shoe to multi interface shoe. Includes adapter, box and instructions.

Which camera do you have? PocketWizarda are very easy to use. Need to know which camera you are using to make a comparison between it and PWs.

Yep, lots of good photographers on insta doing interesting things. Have a look at @pete.ambrose.

Great images!

Agree with orsetto. Body is severely compromised. Needs to be replaced or a thorough clean and lube.

Have a look through: Search: 20" softbox | Flickr User Stuart Marshall has some images with a 20x20 softbox and an SB-900. User Rey Amio has an image with an 18x20 softbox and an SB-800.

Something mechanical is significantly wrong with the camera. I suspect the body, but hard to say. Can you post a video of the situation?

Agree with AJG, and furthermore the lamp house itself does not establish negative-lens-baseboard alignment, which is the critical aspect. On the 23C and 45V-XL enlargers, adjustment of film plane to lens axis, and ultimately to baseboard, is done in the carriage assembly which I suggest should remain mounted to the frame.

Photos will help. The lens should fit perfectly tight and perpendicular to the body. No looseness or misalignment at all. Wiggling should have no effect. Pointing the camera up or down should have no effect.

Professional bodies are older than Pro S and Pro SD, so one must always keep in mind that older bodies can malfunction. The Sekor C lens is from the middle generation, between the "non-C" and newer KL lenses. I would put more effort on diagnosing the body at this point, vs. the lens. Can you explain again, what exactly is happening when the camera malfunctions? Try the lens, not connected to the body, through all shutter speeds. Does anything change in its function? Try different shutter speed settings, when you have the camera and lens attached. Need more information on the malfunction description. Try all of the tests with the revolving adapter removed. There is a malfunction that is accentuated when the revolving adapter is attached, which relates to the coupling arms that extend from the top corners of the body, to communicate to the film back, through holes in the revolving adapter.

The comment that the lens requires some force to cock the shutter is worth exploring. If the body and lens each work correctly when disassembled, they should work when assembled. Cock and fire the body 10 times, without the lens. Do the same with the lens, without the body. Observe very closely. Listen for small ticks or clicks. Watch for slow or delayed movements. Are you conducting tests with a revolving adapter and film back attached? Is the body a Pro, Pro S or Pro SD?

The lamphouse itself is easily removable from the carrier, no concerns. The lamphouse carrier, which is attached to the frame, is best left attached imo. The frame + carrier should be detachable from the baseboard. This is the case with Beseler 23C and 45V-XL enlargers.

Great portrait.