Barry Clemmons Photography

<p>I don't think it is an error. I also saw it at my Best Buy store here in Birmingham, AL for $1489. I don't understand it either. I wonder what Nikon has to say about this.</p>

<p>Tolga, that is a Bird of Paradise. Very nice picture!</p>

<p>Yes, it is still under warranty but I'd better check the expiration date. I took the flash off first to see if that would fix it, but it didn't. Hopefully it was just a one time occurrence. I have another job tonight but it is sports related and I won't be using the D810. I will play with it over the weekend to see if I can replicate the issue.<br> One thing I didn't check was the flash cord I was using (I was using a flash bracket). I should have disconnected it as well but at the time I was just trying to quickly get everything working again and felt very confident that taking the batteries out would solve it for the time being.</p>

<p>I searched to see if anyone else has experienced this issue recently, but only found a post from 2012 involving D4 and D800 bodies. Yesterday I was shooting a conference indoors with my D810 using flash. About halfway through I noticed the top LCD was lit and the shutter release would no longer function. I tried to turn the camera off and back on but that didn't work either. In fact the LCD remained lit even after switching it off. Finally I removed the batteries from both the body and grip and that fixed the problem. Has anyone else experienced this? I have never experienced this with any other body. I am going to email Nikon to see if there is a known issue, but just thought I would check with you guys first.</p>

<p>I have never received spam mail from Nikon either. I have always assumed they need your email address in case they need to contact you regarding recalls or other issues with your Nikon product.</p>

<p>Shun, I purchased a lens today and it had the new white warranty card.</p>

<p>Ara, you might want to try a factory reset to get everything back to where it was when the D810 was shipped. You would then need to go into the menus to set everything where you want it.</p>

<p>Here is an explanation from the Nikon website:<br> https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9602/~/slr-exposure-compensation-in-manual-mode</p>

<p>To the point Les brings up about overexposure, for this photo you had your camera set for an exposure value of +2. Was that intentional?</p>

<p>I agree with Ilkka about the skin tone. It looks normal to me if I mask off all of the green around the subject. Keep in mind also that it can be based on the individual monitor you are viewing the photo on. Do you calibrate your monitor? I also don't see any abnormal noise in the photo. As far as focus, using f/2.8 at this distance gives a very narrow DOF. If your lens is back focusing or front focusing even the slightest bit it can throw the focus off in such a small focus area. I normally shoot portraits at f/5.6 or f/7.1 which gives a larger DOF for the face or faces. This may require bumping the ISO up to 400 but that is not an issue with the D810. Can you post a photo with the noise problem you mention? </p>

<p>You say it isn't the battery so I am assuming you have tried a different battery with the same results. I would try cleaning the contacts on both the lens and camera body. You may also want to check the contacts inside the battery compartment of the camera.</p>

<p>Sorry about that. Amazing there doesn't appear to be one on the web anywhere.</p>

<p>Dean, I believe you are looking for the MD-15 manual, not MB. If so try this website.<br> http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_motor_drive/nikon_motor_drive.htm<br> Scroll down the page to find the MD-15 manual. The person running this website asks for a donation, but that is not necessary to download the manual I believe. </p>

<p>The dogwoods have been in bloom here for the past week, along with plenty of rain.</p><div></div>

<p>I keep a roll of gaffer's tape around for just such situations. Just tear off a small strip and cover each command wheel. Comes off easily later without leaving residue.</p>

<p>Shun, that is still very good results in my opinion. I don't know what Nikon has done to get these results at ISO 6400 with the D7200, but I really like it. </p>

<p>Goker, All of my images of the "Toy Story" watch can are 100% crops. As I indicated, the first two ISO 6400 were jpegs straight out of the camera with no post-processing applied. Someone then asked that I post the shots from the ISO 6400 NEF files converted to jpeg with no post-processing applied which I did. I agree that the images look very good, in fact better than I expected. But they are in fact non-processed images as indicated. I prefer a DX body for my bird photography but understand that not everyone agrees.</p>

<p>Girish, Some of my favorite photos (especially of birds) were made with the D300. My main advice would be to stay at ISO 200, but for certain not to venture beyond ISO 800 for best results. As you are aware, it is a 12MP camera while the latest are 24-36MP. Obviously that will somewhat limit any PP cropping as well for 16x20 prints. Just try to frame your shots so that the need to crop later will be limited.</p>

<p>And what would a Blue Angels airshow be without the Blue Angels? They were kind enough to line up for this shot with the moon in the background.</p><div></div>

<p>Later the F-22 slowed enough to allow a flyby with a WWII era P-51 Mustang.</p><div></div>

<p>Attended a Blue Angels airshow over the weekend and caught this shot of an F-22 Raptor with afterburners on.</p><div></div>

<p>So if I am reading Bill Claff's graph correctly, the D600 outperforms the D810 in PDR. Seriously?</p>

<p>I haven't tried the focus in low light yet vs the D7100, but it does seem to focus a little quicker than the D7100. That is just subjective though on my part since I don't have any way to measure it.</p>

<p>Okay Noreen, so the shot below is not in shade but it was a very overcast day and it was shot at ISO 400 and not 6400 using the D7200. It is also cropped slightly. Still pretty good details I think.</p><div></div>

<p>Eric, great shot! I agree about the D3s and use one for all of my high school sports photography. The lighting at most of those stadiums are not up to NFL lighting standards by any stretch. When the D4 came out I decided to just keep my D3s for two reasons. First I just didn't see enough improvement in the low light shots to warrant it, and second I didn't want to have to add a third type of memory card to my bag.</p>