Peter_in_PA

<p>Extension tubes or revering rings for a guy who is doing this with an entry-level DSLR?<br /><br />I don't think so. I don't even like them for someone who knows what they are doing unless you need to go greater than 1:1. I don't think the OP needs that.<br /><br /><strong>We need to know how you are using these photos how big you're going to use them.</strong> If you're not going really big, and can crop in, I would certainly stick with a 105, Tamron 90, or Nikkor 85. <br /><br />The good lighting and sturdy tripod you need are just as important.</p>

<p>A fisheye isn't a stay-on-camera lens, but can make for some fun images for sure.</p>

<p>Once you know how to navigate the menus (and it doesn't take long) Nikon's menu system is fairly easy to navigate. I was able to get to every single setting without thinking much about it within a week of owning the 2 Nikon DSLRs I used to own.<br /><br />That said, maybe I'm not the best judge. I use Olympux µ43 now and everybody complains about how hard the menu system is and I find the interface really easy.</p>

<p>The 85 is too long for many portraits but on DX that length is fantastic for really close-in faces or for getting more distance between you and the subject. For head and shoulders portraiture, the 50mm offerings from Nikon are a really good idea actually. For family and group shots where you have room, the 35mm DX is wonderful, too.</p> <p>When I shot DX I had the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 which was a fantastic lens. But, to be honest, after the novelty wore off, I found I didn't really shoot much of use at those really wide angles. Good thing the new version of that lens goes from 11 - 20. That is an awesome range, basically 17.5 - 30mm field of view. It's a nice lens to have, but most of my favorite landscape images were shot between regular wide angle (about 28mm f.o.v., 18mm on a DX camera) to about 60 or 70mm.</p>

<p>If you're stopping down a stop or so it matters very little and the extra .4 is worth nothing.<br /><br />If you like to shoot wide open, the f1.4 is worth every penny.</p>

<p>mary,<br /><br />I am reasonably sure you can only use an µ43 based flash with µ43 based cameras.<br /><br />You want auto flash or TTL flash, a Nikon (or other non-µ43 camera brand) just won't do it.</p>

<p>I used a Nikon flash on my EM-5 with no problems except the flash could only be used in manual mode. If that is what you're looking to do, you don't need anything.</p>

<p>I STILL believe that Nikon should and will respond to the Canon 7D Mk II. That camera is freaking amazing. I don't know how it is selling, but I haven't seen blowout deals, so that has to be something.</p> <p>If I was still a DSLR shooter and if my kid was into sports instead of music, it would tempt me to drop my Nikon stuff in a heartbeat. As it is, I went smaller and went mirrorless (Olympus µ43) and am happy... but then I'm really an amateur.</p> <p>I am predicting, not a "D400", but a "D9x00" that will be a hybrid between the control layout of the pro bodies and the features of the D7x00" series, and probably not in the D300 size, but closer to the D7x00 size, because I suspect that it is what Nikon thinks people want. But I've been thinking that's what they'll come out with for years, and they haven't...</p>

<p>I wish they would update the EM-5's firmware to do stuff like this. But that's okay. I never buy a product based on what it "might" do one day.</p>

<p>The 7200 is the easy choice imho. </p>

<p>Oh my goodness, I don't think anybody's hearing me. I will simply bow out now... See ya.</p>

<p>Dieter, the whole thread was started by commenting on some debunked rumor. How much more "bad info" can we get.<br /><br />I'm not necessarily talking to you in this next statement, Dieter... but...<br /><br />Look, it's wonderful we have choices, but if the only way to enjoy our choices is to find ways to deride others choices, and if the only way my Whizbang 2000 can be cool is for me to talk about how the people who make the GeeWhiz 3000 are doomed...<br /><br />...sorry, but that kind of junk, which this part of the forum seems filled with lately, is useless to everyone ultimately.<br /><br />It's kind like when I was a kid and you could be a Who fan or a Stones fan, but you couldn't like both. Or you can root for the Bengals (which I do) but that meant that you had to HATE the Steelers.<br /><br />Or if you're a musician... My Fender guitar is awesome and they are all awesome, here's why all Gibson guitars suck. (especially if I just plunked 2 grand down for a Fender and am trying to convince myself I didn't make the wrong choice...)<br /><br />The whole discussion is bad info. Someone reading this hoping for some guidance in what brand they should get are instead confronted with knee-jerk fan-boi ranting lately... and then they head over to the Nikon forum where the moderators are exceptionally skilled at keeping that from happening and still allowing stimulating dialogue.</p>

<p>anecdotal information is not data, though. Do these guys SELL cameras in the video? Doesn't that always make their "anecdotal data" suspect?<br /><br />Don't get me wrong, I'm glad we have choices and I dumped Nikon for mirrorless (albeit Olympus), but he's never seen mass migration before? Pros went back and forth between Nikon and Canon all the time 10 - 20 years ago as they leapfrogged each other.<br /><br />If you're happy with your thousands of dollars invested in the Whizbang 2000, you don't HAVE to assume that the people who bought the GeeWhiz 3000 are somehow worse...</p>

<p>Dieter,<br /><br />http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/36976-USA/Nikon_1435_NIKKOR_Normal_50mm_f_1_2.html</p> <p>http://www.noct-nikkor.com/</p> <p>Lots of bad info in this thread...</p>

<p>Edward,<br /><br />Actually this thread was started to discuss a wild tale on a rumor site. And from what I've heard, it's been debunked. So there's that...</p>

<p>I would go right to the Tamron or Sigma 17-50 f2.8 zooms. They are universally very well regarded, and cheap enough that you can take the rest of that thousand dollars and do something else nice for her!<br /><br />When and if she moves on to a different camera that either of those may still suit her well if it's a DX body.</p>

<p>The customer for the Olympus/Panasonic µ43 and the customer for the Sony mirrorless are totally different customers.<br /><br />I'd never consider the Sony. I don't blow up stuff huge, don't want anything big to carry around (or I would have kept my Nikon) and I don't want to use every conceivable brand of lens on my camera (although, obviously, I could and do use one Nikkor).<br /><br />But Thom is not the only one who is saying that Sony has a lot of weaker lenses either.</p>

<p>Louis, I've adapted lenses and stand by my statement firmly, as do loads of other guys who've written gobs about it on the web.<br /><br />There are a lot of concerns about adapted lenses, more stray light coming in because of much larger image circle (on µ 43, or using MF lenses on regular format DSLRs and such), the inability to AF (and sometimes fully meter) as you mention, the fact that the camera and lens now don't communicate, etc. If you're shooting totally still objects that never move in a controlled situation... I guess... but really...?<br /><br />Virtually every user is better off just using the mount your camera has. Chasing around really high end bodies to use with other camera brand lenses is, in almost every case, folly.<br /><br />Besides, the OP has a Canon 5D3. How much better IQ is he REALLY gonna get with something else. This reads like measurebating to me.<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Stick with what ya got. Adapted lenses are never the way to go for best results possible.</p>

<p>So, Sony starts to catch up with Nikon in terms of lensing just a little more and this is supposed to make Nikon nervous (and Canon)? I doubt it.<br> </p> <blockquote> <p>This is the least exciting thing I've read about mirrorless cameras since the Canon M10 announcement.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Oh, yeah... an interchangeable lens camera with no flash hot shoe. Wow. Bigger fails are few and far between. Perhaps you were kidding.<br /><br> <br> I don't think Nikon and Canon think that the future market for mirrorless is going to be large heavy full-frame cameras, and I think they're right, and I think fanboi's warning that the sky is falling on them based on rumor sites is just a little premature.<br> </p> <blockquote> <p><br />If one of the least successful makers of mirrorless cameras buys the unsuccessful mirrorless business of another of the least successful mirrorless companies, the result is going to be an incremental change at best.</p> </blockquote> <p> </p> <p>yup.</p>

<p>A newer Tamron or Sigma 24/28-70 will destroy that old 35-70 from Nikon.</p> <p>If you gotta have Nikon, get the 24-70, don't do the two lens thing, especially for weddings.</p>

<p>Any µ 43 lens works in all modes on any µ 43 camera as long as it's an AF lens (as ALL current Olympus and Panasonic lenses are). It's a multi-brand standard, so you need not worry about those functions.</p> <p>I do, however, believe that some panasonic lenses don't get auto-corrected for everything (fringing, vignetting) on Olympus bodies and vice versa. But when I use my panasonic lens on my Olympus bodies, it gives me fantastic pics.</p>

<p>If you want to mess around photographing non-moving stuff, I recommend a cheap 55mm f2.8 or f3.5 manual focus lens. one or two hundred bucks...</p> <p>No, it won't AF with your camera, but you don't need that for real macro anyway.</p> <p>No, it won't meter, but go into manual mode and if what you're shooting doesn't move, keep adjusting exposure till you get it right. And then, you will learn more about understanding exposure than you could guess you will.</p>

<p>Yes, (I have an EPM-1, similar generation), it shouldn't even be necessary to set the focal length, the camera knows just how to run the IS for any µ43 lens you put on it.</p> <p>It's not as good as the IS in the EM-5, but it is not so bad.</p> <p>That lens is a STEAL right now. I didn't buy one because I prefer the 20mm f1.7 which I already have.</p>

<p>You can force the flash to be off in M A S P modes with any Nikon DSLR ever made. In green auto mode it will fire if the camera decides it's needed though.</p>