stevenseelig

This may sound like a strange question, but if I see a dust particle in an

image, where is that dust on the sensor. If it appears in the lower left in

the image, is the dust actually located in the lower left as I am looking

through the lens (lower right as I am looking at the sensor) or in one of the

other corners.

Thanks, Steven

Hopefully, I will be able to attach a meaningful composite. Using my 28-105 Nikkor lens @

f8 and 105mm, on a tripod and using strobe to photograph a ruler laying on the floor at

about a 45 degree angle from the len. Using the 15 mark as the focus area, I first used the

far left AF region, then the center AF region, and finally the far right AF region. Not sure

whether others will be able to see in the attached file, but even at full size files, if there was a

difference it is very very minor. I did the same experiment with my 70-200mm and did not

see any difference either, but I will upload those results as well, if the attached picture is ok.<div></div>

For every shoot, I ask for a model release with the statement that, if the pictures are really

outstanding, I might want to use them for promotional purposes of my business. I have had

one attorney turn me down and one large (23 people) family shoot I could not get signatures

(mostly due to tactical implementation for asking for a release from so many people).

Otherwise, I am able to ask simply and most people are quite ok with it. Steven

About 6 weeks ago...with the Artic Butterfly. My usual test for dust does not show any.

Joseph, Yes I have the most current firmware...as I shoot with wireless transfer, at least in

the studio.

 

I have tried manual focus and have been disappointed in my ability to get it right...hence I

default to AF...

 

Will do some metric testing today..and will try to upload a couple of pictures...

Shun, That is seems like the brains of the autofocus function, but were are the mechanics held...i assume the lens...

 

I will look back and see if I can see a difference.. my problem is i have no standard image so it might be difficult and several different lenses...

thanks..steven

Anthony,

Thanks for reminding me of that test. I could that with several lenses and at the same focal length and see, first if the point of focus was in fact the right place, but also if there is variation between the lense. I think all you really need is a measure stick, 45 degrees, and focus at exactly the same spot from the same distance.. i think....

Anthony,

That seems like a great suggestion. Does Nikon publish standard deviation specification per channel. I would also guess that the standard deviation in any particular change varies with light intensity. But without a defined target, how would I know whether it was ok or not?

Shun,

I am a gentle user, but after 18 months or so, I guess that is possible. But where does the autofocus mechanics exist? I have always assume they were in the lens, but the controlling software was in the camera. So if anything got bumped...might it be the lens?..and how would one test or how would nikon test to see?

thanks steven

Matt,

I have heard people say that the autofocus function works best on the center focus area (I always use spot focus) and that as the focus area moves away from the center, the autofocus function worsens. Do you know whether that is true?

 

Software changes. Well the RAW processing for D200 in Aperture has changed from the intial launch of Aperture, "for sure", but I also know there is an interaction between RAW processing and the Apple operating system. New camera RAW processing only appears with updates to the Apple operating system, as best as I can tell. So it is hard to tell where changes might be occurring, particularly since Apple must be preparing for Leopard and hopefully Aperture 2.0.

 

So perhaps, I can ask the question slightly differently. How would Nikon test my camera and certify that it was operating within specifications (or as good as new) in terms of focus routines and noise levels?

I am using a D200 and on another post someone reminded me that the cross focus only works on the center area and others have said that the autofocus function on areas outside of the center area are worse than the center. I have not way of knowing this, but I have heard it said. Typically I will use panning, but also typically will use the non-center area for autofocus function. So that is a one possibility.

 

Another strategy that I have considered is to create a focus on a specific plane, put the camera in manual focus mode (or lock focus) and then let the subject "walk thru" the plane while shooting 5 frames per second.

 

I shoot a D200.

 

I have tried people approaching as well as at 90 degrees, panning, etc. Since most of this is outside with natural light, strobing does not seem to be a choice. Have to think about that a bit.

 

I appreciate all of the suggestions, and I am still looking for more!

steven

It seems to me that after about 35,000 pictures, the noise and sharpness of the

image is slowly getting worse on my D200. Matters are made more complex as the

processing software is also changing (hopefully for the better but who really

knows). I am wondering whether anyone has developed metrics or strategies to

evaluate the D200 performance that go beyond the subjective (looks good to me

or looks worse to me).

 

I process RAW files thru Aperture (1.5.3) on the Mac 10.4.9.

 

Thanks

I have tried without great success at trying to photograph people walking or in

motion. I typically will shoot at 1/500 for walking pictures and it seems like

the focus is a bit soft so I am wondering if there are tricks that people

employ beyond shutter speed to get really sharp action pictures, typically

people walking or doing simple actions like jumping.

 

Thanks steven

Steven...can you expand on the USB/IDE adapter..and using IDE disks? Do you use this

solution on a Mac? Thanks Steven

As an alternative (although still magnetic) going to the 250 GB WD Passport drives. At $199 a pop, it is $.80/GB vs the blu-ray of $.69/GB. I have heard that not all blu-ray disk will burn properly (10-20% drop out) which places cost about the same level...and the passport does not require purchase of an expensive recorder which will likely obsolent sooner than my USB ports.....in terms of speed of writing, I would guess the USB will beat the blu-ray. Only "advantage" ... disk might last longer as long as technology will read it...

 

Got any other suggestions for archiving? And thanks by the way. Steven

Thanks Ellis,

 

Do you have experience with OWC's recorder? If yes, do you have an impression? Also, I notice on OWC they say the Mac OS does not support blu-ray, although iDVD, and Toast It do. Once you burn the disk, does it mount under the finder and look like any other disk or do you have to do something special.

 

Thanks Steven

I have been storing and backing up to magnetic media (several terabytes) and a

couple of years ago decided that 4.4 or 8.5 GB DVD was not a solution (too many

disks to manage). So I have been using paralleled Western Digital drives, but

my computer friends warn me about keeping everything on magnetic and have

suggested blu-ray or HD-DVD, so I am exploring this choice more. I work

entirely on the Mac so I am wondering

 

1. Does anyone have any experience with either of these formats on the Mac. If

yes, what recorders have you used and what disks? What are the pros and cons

from your point of view?

 

2. Does anyone know about long term stability, if stored properly, like a

safety deposit box condition?

 

3. Other suggestions for long term, off site storage of 100's of GB monthly.

Offline web based systems seem as a very expensive solution.

 

Thanks

Steven

Josh, I am glad that you are making this effort and encourage the PN team to get fake

accounts removed. I know I really appreciate it! I always like the idea of verifiable accounts,

but suspect that might be difficult. My only other thought is to allow both anonymous and

non-anonymous rating to count in over all ratings and for ranking in the Top Pictures

section. To bias the results to anonymous is strange, because, if I know who has rated (bad

or good), I go look at their portfolio. If it is good, I take their rating seriously, if there is

nothing, or bad, then I discount their rating. Nonetheless, keep up the good work! I and I

am sure others will appreciate it. Steven

I think there must be a computation problem. In the Top Photos gallery (Portraits) and a picture of mine, Alma #2, and it says the ratings were 6 with a 5.33 and 5.17. But when you click on the picture and bring up single image, it says there are 13 ratings with a 5.62 and 5.69. Given the difficulties with 3/3's and computation(?) issues, I am giving up on ratings. Perhaps this is the plan... to make ratings a thing of the past. So I too would like to understand, but don't plan on spending too much time worrying about it.. too much to shoot and so little time...

I run MacBook Pro 2.33/3GB RAM/160 GB HD (5400 rpm) and work exclusively with Aperture as my front end and CS2 (when I need the nik filters) or CS3 as an Aperture super plugin. I gave up on NX software (not fast enough and difficult to track what you are doing). I don't seem much difference in results in expert hands between outputs.

I noticed that the ratings for my most recent rating request show 4 in the overview but there are actually 6

ratings..and the numbers don't seem to match. Seems like a bug...

steven

my wish would also include broader exposure range. there is a technical term for this but i

can't remember it this morning.

Jeremy

I shot RAW and it takes about 20 seconds for the first image and 15 second thereafter. Have

you tested the distance you can transmit. Using the built in antenna, I i would guess it is not

more than 50 feet to my MacBook Pro using ad hoc connections

 

What has been your experience?

Thanks

Steven

How are you doing the focusing. Are you letting the camera do it or are you setting in manually? I believe, without evidence, that if I let the camera focus, what it decides as the focal plane might be different than what you would select. I have particularly noticed in shooting people, when using spot focus on the camera and the edge of the persons face, sometimes the camera thinks that the focal plane is what is behind the person, rather than the face.

 

Just a thought...

funny you were asking about this.. i was struggling with the same issue with my picture at night "Lovers" You certainly got more info than i did!!!!

 

Thanks for asking again....

 

hope all is well

steven