j_rgen_loob

<p>Sorry Simon<br>

I forgot to mention , that I was using the KODAK PORTA NC160 profile for scanning .<br>

This profile seems to be very much like the new profile for the EKTAR 100 , (Negafix Profil) which is available with the SILVERFAST Ai Version 6.6.2r2 for the MICROTEK ARTIXSCAN F1 scanner since July 2010 .<br>

That reminds me to upgrade to that new version .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>Simon<br>

I shot a couple of rolls KODAK EKTAR 100 (120 film) last year and all scans were done on my MICROTEK ARTIX SCAN F1 .<br>

Scanner software is SILVERFAST Ai Version 6.6.1r2 . I got absolutely correct scans with no color casts at all .<br>

I believe , that the results depend very much on the scanner and the scanner software .<br>

Do you have a chance to get scans done on a different scanner ? ? ? If so , I think , it is worth a try .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Pietro</p>

<p>Where do you live ? ? ?<br>

Do you have a lens board and can you mount the lens yourself .<br>

I have a chance to get you a brandnew lens with full guarantee .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p>There is NO V-SYSTEM lens correction for the 4,5/38mm BIOGON lens available in PHOCUS .<br>

Not even in the latest version of PHOCUS .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>I recently have made some tests with the HASSELBLAD CFV-39 back and the 905SWC BIOGON .<br>

The sensor size is 37x49 which is about the same size as the LEAF APTUS 22 has .<br>

I received a magenta cast on the right image side and a cyan cast on the left side . Taking a custom WB shot , this can be eliminated . This might not be very handy for many shooting situations and I do not know , how good the image sharpness is on the left and right side . <br>

This does not degrade the CZ BIOGON lens , which is still perfect for film .<br>

Therefore , I say , go for the DISTAGON 40 mm lens . The newer the version , the better .<br>

No visable color cast with the DISTAGON CFE 4/40 IF .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Kevin<br>

I have an ARCASWISS 6x9 F-LINE METRIC + ORBIX and I love that camera .<br>

I also like the MISURA .<br>

But both of them can hardly be used handheld .<br>

The ALPA and "ALPA like cameras" can easily be used handheld , or be used with a <br>

monopod . I include here also the HASSELBLAD SWC .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Stuart<br>

I know , that the image circle of the RODENSTOCK DIGARON-S 23mm lens is only 70mm and can not be used with the 60MB sensor .<br>

But I also did not say so .<br>

I know , there are some other cameras which can also use the DIGARON-S lenses . (or Schneider) But they were not mentioned before .<br>

Fotoman and Mamiya 7 are not the ones .<br>

Therefore your response is correct and a good contribution .</p>

<p>Regarding ALPA , which is on the top of my wishlist , you could also see it from a different position .<br>

Some people like ROLEX or IWC or Jaeger Le Coultre wrist watches . (or others) These watches are extremely expensive and show you the time as well as a SWATCH .<br>

But , if you are a technique freak , and many of us are , (I am) , then you might easily come to a point , where a desired gear becomes a must .<br>

Then economic thinking is out of the game .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>Frank<br>

Simply said , your answer is incorrect .<br>

An ALPA 12 camera can take various 6x9 filmbacks and can take a digital back of the newest generation .<br>

That means a digital back with a sensor size of 60MB .<br>

Not to forget , that you can use a RODAGON DIGARON-S 23mm lens of outstanding quality .<br>

That is real digital WA photography .<br>

All other gear suggested here is unable for such a combination .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>D F</p>

<p>NO , YOU DO NOT NEED AN ALPA .<br>

You do not need a luxury car either . But shooting with an ALPA is like driving a luxury car .<br>

It takes you to your destination , but much more comfortable and precise . Believe it or not .<br>

Its just state of the art .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>Julian</p>

<p>If you plan to have a 5xx body at a later time , you should think of getting a metered prism .<br>

You would not need this prism on the 203FE of course , but you will then be happy to have it for the 5xx body.<br>

One buy for two cameras .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>Pablo</p>

<p>I had a quick check in the internet for AGFA SCALA 200 , a diapositive film .<br>

I have worked with this film in the size 4x5 . A great film .<br>

It looks as if this film is still available , but I am not a 100% shure . It might also depend a bit on the country you live in .<br>

What you could do , is google for AGFA SCALA 200 4x5 etc.<br>

I think , it is at least worth a try .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p>Dean</p>

<p>Thank you very much for that nice joke .<br>

That gives me a happy weekend and wipes the rain away .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p>Ian</p>

<p>The CFV-16 has a square sensor and would not need a tilt sensor then .<br>

But I did receive a tilt sensor error with my CFV-16 . So obviously , that back has a tilt sensor .<br>

I can not speek for the CFV-39 , as it has not arrived yet .<br>

Perhaps it is not even produced .<br>

I wonder , what the 30 and 60 degree setting will be used for .<br>

I can understand 0 or 90 and auto .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>Wilko , Paul , Jeff and Ian .<br>

Its nice to read your comments .<br>

Ok. Now we have some explanations , of what a tilt sensor is or could be .<br>

But the actual question is , why do we need a tilt sensor in a digital back .<br>

We don't have a tilt sensor in any HASSELBLAD camera , or a LEICA or a NIKON etc .<br>

I have never even heard of such a device in my CFV back till a tilt sensor error was indicated .<br>

The CFV-39 back has some tilt sensor settings like 30 , 60 or 90 degrees or auto .<br>

So again , can anyone here in this forum explain , why we need a tilt sensor in a digital back .</p>

<p>Jürgen</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Q.G.de Bakker<br>

Here we are again .<br>

In whatever forum you post , you always follow the same procedure .<br>

Information , contradiction , provocation and nasty abuse . This must be an addiction for you .<br>

You are well known in the forum world for that outrageous behaviour .<br>

What the hell drives you to do that ? ? ?<br>

When will you finally free peaceful and respectable persons from your presence .<br>

Jürgen</p>

<p>If you don't know an anwer , so why do you post then ? ? ?<br>

jotloob</p>

<p>Fred<br>

I have a SW612PRO and as far as I can see , the only difference is , that the pro can do shifts in either direction .<br>

But that does not answer the question completely .<br>

If you live in Europe , you might try to contact PLAUBEL in Frankurt .</p>

Steven

It looks as if you need seriesVII or series7 or seriesVII/7 . Three different writings , but they all mean the same .

A seriesVII thread is approx. 54mm . That thread is not common in Europe any more , but you might find some in the U.S.

If a friend of yours has one of these , he might let you try out.

Jurgen

Erik

What camera did you use and how were your settings in the CFV BACK ? ? ?

I experienced almost the same and found my setting for the SWC was wrong and since I use the sync cable

for the SWC/CFV combination + the proper shutter time

setting , which can also be longer than the actual used

time , the problem has gone .

There is no way of rescueing the damaged files .

Jurgen

The information about the design and measurements of the RODENSTOCK and SCHNEIDER lenses can be found here .

As I only have the german versions , you might have a look here :

http://www.schneideroptics.com and

http://www.linos.com

click on the english language versions .

Yes , there is no ARCA modification required for the RODENSTOCK APO GRANDAGON 4,5/45mm . I have that lens and all works fine .

Regards Jurgen

d g

As I have the HASSELBLAD CFV digital back , I use a HASSELBLAD adapter and the RMfx viewer for focussing .

You can also use the ARCA ground glass adapter , but I prefer the HASELBLAD viewer solution .

I use the ARCA-SWISS rotaslide adapter and I believe , that this slide adapter is the very best on the market . For square

format , of course , you do not need a rotating slide adapter . But I am a friend of solutions from one and the same brand .

The ROTASLIDE is not cheap , but perfect for rotation as well as stitching .

To use the RODENSTOCK 35mm digital lens with the ROTASLIDE , the backframe of your ARCA needs a modification .

This is , because of the design of the ARCA backframe and also of the rear lens barrel of the 35mm lens .

If this modification is not done , you can not slide without damaging the 35mm digital lens . This is valid for infinity focusing .

Also , you will need a super wide angle bellow , which just has one fold . A recessed lensboard of 15mm is required .

If you want further information , don't hesitate to call MARTIN VOGT from ARCA-SWISS . His number is : 0033 3 81854060 .

arca-swiss@wanadoo.fr

Martin speaks fluent english . The ARCA-SWISS company is a small but very efficient company and they are situated in FRANCE .

Also , if you have further questions , come back , and I will try to answer them .

Jürgen

Viola

Your camera is obviously a 503CW . A very good camera in deed .

If you go to the HASSELBLAD website , which is http://www.hasselblad.com you will find a download section for documentation .

Register yourself , it is for free , and you can download a user manual for your camera .

It is available in different languages .

Regards Jurgen

Igor

Welcome in MF photography . I had the same feelings , but that was many years ago .

About ten years ago , I added an ARCA-SWISS 4x5 to my gear and when I saw the first

ARCA color slides , it was overwelming again like from 35mm to MF.

Good luck for your MF photography .

Jurgen

Kausthub

There is no lightmetering in the 501CM and also not in the 503CW .

The only V-SYSTEM cameras which have a lightmeter system are the 203FE and the

205TCC/FCC .

The 503CW has a TTL flash control "metering" , which the 501CM does not have .

So you will have to use a handmeter and control the metering by using the digital

backs histogram .

Regards Jurgen