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j_rgen_loob

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Posts posted by j_rgen_loob

  1. Larry

     

    I have come to this point of decision some weeks ago as well .

    I find , that a FLEXBODY is no solution at all , as the HASSELBLAD ZEISS lenses have an

    image circle , which does only allow a minimum of shift operation . On the other hand ,

    the shift only operates into one way .

    The ARCBOBY can only shift into one direction as well , and is limited for RODENSTOCK

    APO GRANDAGON lenses of 35mm , 45mm and 75mm (unless you don't get a special

    make for other focal length) .

    So i decided to use my ARCASWISS 6x9 with a HASSELBLAD back attached and the APO-

    GRANDAGON 45mm . (no focus mount needed either , and i can use all my LF lenses as

    well) . This is just great gear . Shifts and tilts for front and back in horizontal and vertical

    direction . The shift amount for the APO-GRANDAGON 5,6/45mm is about 25mm , might

    even be 28mm , and of course more if you use a digital back , with a sensor size , smaller

    than the HASSELBLAD negative . But , the crop factor of course , has also to be taken in

    consideration , if you are going to use a digital back , ( I don't know , if you then would

    need a digi version of a lens) . In the moment i just still work the analog way . For film

    transport of the HASSELBLAD magazine, i have found a good and practical solution . If you

    are interested , come back and i will explain in detail .

  2. Hello Dirk

     

    Please do NOT forget , that german customs have to be added .

    The calculation is as follows : The amount of your bill + shipping cost . (plus insurence)

    Now add 4,2% tax , may be even 6,7% tax to that sum and then add 16% VAT . Plus eventually

    about 10,00� handling cost for the carrier .

    Go to http://www.zoll.de and select TARIC . Here you will find all you need to get the amount

    of TAX .

  3. Pico

     

    Don't worry , the same thing happened to me , when i used my HORSEMAN SW 6x12 PRO the

    first time . When you are used to HASSELBLAD , then you know , this will not happen to you .

    Hopefully you can repeat the shots . I could not .

  4. Mark

     

    I went into LF about 10 years ago and i would like to point out to you , that you should be

    aware of much bigger film size and of the fact , that its not just to develop like a 35mm or

    a MF film .

    So my first decision was , to use JOBO tanks (there are shurely also other brands available).

    I can use the same process and movements as for MF films and that makes it very easy for

    me .

    The second question was , what will i use the camera for . If you have to do studio works

    as a main job , the weight of the camera is not so important , but if you mainly go out

    into the field , then the weight of the camera is important .

    So my decision was for an ARCASWISS 4x5 F-Line with a small lensboard and an

    international back . All together just 3,4 Kilogram . And you should not forget the tripod .

    A heavy camera also requires a "heavier" tripod.

    Now the lenses . I use a SUPER ANGULON XL 72mm , an APO SIRONAR S 135mm , 180mm

    and 240mm . And thats just all i need .

  5. Frank

     

    Originally the 553ELX came with an ACUTE MATTE screen . That of course , does not mean

    , that your 553ELX was given to you with the original screen . There are 2 different ACUTE

    MATTE screen types available . The first serie is not so easy to recognize . The ACUTE

    MATTE D serie , which is the current serie , has two little bumps in the aluminium frame .

    But all ACUTE MATTE screens have either a cross in the center or a grid or a combination

    with a split image rangefinder and a metering circle of different size , for the different

    models or metering devices . Go to the HASSELBLAD homepage and download the V-

    SYSTEM catalogue . Here you will find a good description of the current screens .

    Your screen is obviously not an ACUTE MATTE and by your description of the "clear circle"

    i assume that this is a split image rangefinder . It looks as if it is the 42188 screen , which

    was introduced in 1971 . If this answer is not satisfying , come back with more details .

  6. Gareth

     

    I dont know the size of the crown graphic lensboard .

    I have an ARCASWISS 4x5 F-METRIC with the 110x110 mm lensboard . And . . . . I have

    mounted an APO-SIRONAR-S 240mm in COPAL 3 shutter on that little lensboard . It works

    absolutely perfect and i never ever had any trouble with it . Room enough for the releasecable

    Hopefully , this info helps a bit .

  7. David

     

    A glass screen is made to be used , when you work in macro and even microphotography and

    is supposed to give you a better , brighter image on screen . So you will not have a

    comfortable usage when taking images in normal environment and at distances up to infinity.

  8. Hi Ofer

     

    The manfrotto 405 geared head is 1.6kg of weight . (i checked this with mine) and can easily

    carry a 5 kg 4x5 LF format camera (as i use it) . I find this head very comfortable and precise ,

    especially when using LF cameras . I hope this helps . Do not buy the 410 geared head ! !

    This one is too small and not as comfortable as the 405 .

  9. Darius

     

    Your question is a bit confusing . You were measuring the exposure with a MINOLTA 4f .

    Great meter , i use it too . Now , but that meter has got nothing to do with the BRONICA

    you sold . You can use that meter with any camera , but you say that you are using now a

    GOSSEN digital luna or a SIXTOMAT .

    I assume , that there is a difference between the GOSSEN meters and the MINOLTA 4f in

    the individual ASA setting . If you still have the "4f" just take a grey card and compare the

    meter reading , of course with the same ASA setting . You know , that your "4f" results are

    ok . Go and compare these results to the GOSSEN meters .

  10. Gary

     

    Talking about Proshade 6093T .

    The proshade is designed to be used with bay60 , bay70 and "93" lenses .

    Therefore three different types of adapters are used . The bay60 and bay70 adapter is just

    a conical ring attaching to the outer bayonet of the lens and the other side to the proshade

    .

    The "93" adapter however consists of two different rings .

    the first ring , called the 93/40-/50-/350-500 (40746) , can take drop in filters of the

    serie 93 and is screwed on to the front of the lens , replacing the hood which came with

    the lens .

    The second ring , called the 6093/93 is then screwed on to the front of the first ring and

    attaches to the proshade with its other side . (I don't know , why they made 2 rings)

    You should not get any vignetting , because the proshade is designed to be used for

    lenses from 38/40 mm up to 350/500mm of focal length .

     

    Here an excerpt from the proshade instruction manual : The Proshade 6093T can also be

    used with different kinds of filters: Bayonet mount filters on the lens front , 93 filters

    behind the 93 lens adapter , gelatin or rigid resin filters in the filter holder . The

    HASSELBLAD 93 polarizing filter can be used and operated with the proshade 6093T still

    attached .

  11. Jonathan

     

    Can you determine which type of focusing screen you have ? ? ?

    There are 2 types for the SWC . 41025 is the older swc type (it has 2 chrome rails , where

    the finder slides in) and 41050 the newer one ( black plastic and has 2 release buttons on

    the left top corner)

    And then , there is 41057 (new style) with a little spirit level on the right top corner .

    This screen adapter is used with a camerabody (500 or 200 serie and with FLEXBODY , and

    i am not quite shure , also with ARCBODY . You should have one of the first two mentioned

    ones , and when your aperture is fully open , while focusing , you should not have the

    described problem .

  12. Janet

     

    I would like to add some words to what was said before .

    I divide the process to a good image into 3 parts .

     

    1) correct focusing and exposure (assuming your gear and lens is in a good working

    condition)

     

    2) proper development of film with fresh chemicals .

     

    3) focusing your enlarger and having a good enlargement lens .

     

    And here i would like to ask you some questions .

     

    Is your groundplate of the enlarger really in parallel to the film plain ? ? ?

     

    Do you use a peak grain sharpening device ? ? ?

     

    What is your enlargement lens ? ? ?

     

    A chain is only as strong as the weakest link . In other words : if you have the best lens on

    your HASSELBLAD you should also have the best lens on your enlarger .

    I use the APO-RODAGON 80mm for my HASSELBLAD negatives . In a comparison to the

    normal RODAGON 80mm , you can see , that the results are far better with the APO lens ,

    than with the normal RODAGON . A friend of mine has the normal RODAGON and we

    exposed the same image , just using his lens and then mine . All poeple , these images

    were shown to , picked the better one . that really means , the differences are visable .

    Regards Jurgen

  13. Bob

    I use an ARCASWISS F-METRIC since about 6 years. I have upgraded the camera from a 6x9

    to a 4x5 inches with international back and also to use the metric gear including the ORBIX

    movement for the front plate . So the camera has the small front lensplate and the

    international back in the rear position . I use mostly the APO-SIRONAR 180mm lens . I am

    very satisfied with this camera . Now ARCA has the new MISURA on the market . Thats

    actually a camera like i have it , but the functions on the back are ristricted to less

    movements . This camera is designed to be used in the field and the back frame also is

    smaller than the one i have . The result of that design is a reduced weight .

    If you will shoot mostly nature , then this MISURA is , in my opinion , a very good choice.

    Unfortunately , ARCASWISS has no own website . But you will find some good pages , in

    the net .

    Regards J�rgen

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