harrisonp

<p>I've had this happen to myself. Just hope that it didn't bend the shaft that the knob turns on.<br>

What you do is:<br>

Flip open the lever arm and locate the very small phillips-head screw. Loosen that, no need to unscrew.<br>

Get a flathead screwdriver now and place it in the top center of the knob. The threads to remove it are REVERSE THREAD, so the "righty tighty" rule turns into the "righty loosey" rule.<br>

Either hold the knob still and rotate the screwdriver, or hold the screwdriver and rotate the knob.<br>

This should get the knob off, and you should be able to rewind the film with a screwdriver after this. Then in turn determine whether or not the shaft is bent. If the shaft is bent, this could end up in costly repairs. If it isn't, then all you have to do is order a new one and replace it.</p>

<p>Or... you could just buy a metal screw on 39mm lens hood from heavystar...<br>

<a href="http://www.google.com/products?q=heavystar+lens+hood+39mm&hl=en&aq=f">http://www.google.com/products?q=heavystar+lens+hood+39mm&hl=en&aq=f</a></p>

<p>I own an M6 TTL with a 40mm nokton and summicron-c. I notice no real difference between the handling of leica-leica pair and the leica-voigtlander pair. I'd say go for a Leica body. Also, the 40-summicron can be found for the same price as the voigtlander counterpart; so why not go for an all leica system? There are rumors that the framelines on M6's are undersized. Meaning that when a 40mm lens is modded to bring up the 35mm framelines, they are still accurate. Either way, I'd really doubt you'd remember your exact framing; I dont.</p>

<p>Try holding it vertically the other way. This is usually because of some sort of outside light source causing flare in your RF. Or get the flare free optics fix.</p>

<p>You could find the smallest key ring available and then put that on your left strap lug, then attach both ends of your strap to that key ring so it all hangs off of one strap lug.</p>

Well it is TTL metering. I have no batteries in my light meter since my camera seems to have the battery drain problem. But, when I did have batteries, I held a grey card at a 45? angle against the lens and metered from there. This would allow the entire frame to be filled with the grey as well as allow the light to enter the lens; no guess work involved as to the parallax at those close of distances. I double checked the resulting metering with a digital camera and it was on the spot. So you could try that.

The best way to start is to just photograph in places that people will know their pictures will be taken.

 

Then just blatantly take a picture of a stranger...but then immediately after look for your next picture. If you think about the person afterwards and look like you're doing something you're not supposed. You havent. But that's when confrontation will most likely occur.

 

<img src="http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/7496/streetri3.jpg">(sorry for the crappy scan)

 

This picture I was walking around...saw these guys. Snapped a picture. Walked away. The interaction was less than 3 seconds. They didnt say a word. No confrontation happened. It's A LOT easier than you think.

Did you just call a Leica a point and shoot................?

Tape works nicely. Cover up the corners and bottoms and you're good to go.

I souped a roll of Tri-X 400 on friday and after I squeegeeed them I noticed

that some film emulsion was peeling from around the sproket holes. I didnt put

them in hypoclear or any photoflo, could this be the error in my ways? Has

anyone else had this happen? I didnt have a loupe to inspect the images and the

images are in the drying cabinet at school right now so I cant really look at

them. Would my images be at risk?

It's 2mm haha don't even worry about it just put a step up ring on it

It's the aliens cloaking devices.

 

 

 

 

 

Or it's just not enough developer and bubbles were resting on the negs.

hahah the only reason is is that APX 100 is on sale at adorama and they dont seem to carry APX 400 anymore... i'll just keep it at 100 and buy some tri-x

and T-Max 100 in the same conditions

I want to buy some Agfa APX 100 and shoot it at 400. I will develop it in 1:1

D-76 solution, because I dont have anything else. Anyone have any experience

with this? Any adverse effects of shooting it at 400? Or should the noticable

grain be the same as Agfa APX 400?

Put it in direct sunlight for an hour or so, the UV rays should kill it and stop it from spreading. Then send it in for a cleaning to a certified person.

Just to clarify the blank frame issue:

 

 

Say I have my roll, frames 3 &4 are blank, 5 is there, but 7,8, and 9 are missing, my exposure recordings all say 1/000 @ 8 all on the same day.

I've been shooting my Canon AE-1 lately and I've been getting my rolls of film

back with a number of frames blank. There are a number of rolls blank and a roll

that's exposed correctly..then a few more that are blank. I've looked back at

the exposure data I record and the surrounding blank frames are on the same

settings and same lighting as the correctly exposed pictures. What is going on?

Is there an error in my method of loading the film? I put the cartrige in, pull

the leader across, clip it in where the arrow says to, cock it once and the

leader is wound away from me towards the front of the body, and then I close and

fire off until it goes to 1. Could there potientially mechanically be something

wrong with the accuracy and consistency of my shutter speeds? Or something else.

hmm the developer WAS d-76

The negs have been fixed completely theres no ill effects of inadequate fixing present, just little specks I cant seem to get off.

I have a couple self processed rolls of Agfa APX 400 that have what looks like

mineral deposits on the shiny side of the film. I've tried soaking the negs in

photoflo and squeegee-ing them off but they seem to be stuck on there pretty good.

 

What other home methods could I do to get these off, or even bought methods?

They show up on all of my prints as white spots and are very unpleasing

I'd get the CV 40 1.4 or the 50 'cron because they're both good for the money.

correction!

 

they [adorama] sell it for $349

I've been looking into buying a CV 40 1.4 and I've been looking on my typical

equipment sites that include

 

keh.com

b&h.com

adorama.com

photo.net

rangefinderforum.com

 

I've chosen these places because if I were to buy it I wouldnt have to pay sales

tax, if I bought it off of cameraquest I would have to pay sales tax due to that

I'm in California. Do you know of any other sites that sells the 40 nokton for

$299, B&H lists it for $379, where adorama lists it for 299.