somak_ray

<p>Accura made a device for rapid film advancement named accurapid. I never used it though. Was that of any help?</p>

<p><strong>Some more examples :</strong><br>

<a href="http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/ektar100">http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/ektar100</a></p>

<p>In kolkata about an year ago, I bought quite a few rolls of Ilford Pan 100 and Pan 400. It's sad to know that they are gone. I also got some Fuji Acros 100 from photosystemsindia (delhi) and I beleive they trade online.<br>

There's a B&H Liasion office at Pune, thru' which you can import virtually all materials that B&H stocks, but with import duty the cost may be on the higher side.<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=helpcenter&A=getpage&Q=contactForm.jsp&destination=india">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=helpcenter&A=getpage&Q=contactForm.jsp&destination=india</a></p>

<p>Don't you get Ilford Pan 100 and Pan 400 there? They are great films particularly the Pan 400.</p>

 

<p>I just received my first print from Clark's, from a roll of fuji 160s and a fuji reala. They did a fantastic job. For the reala, the shots were of 4th july fireworks only. They printed it very well,with brilliant flare of fireworks in a pitch dark background. For the 160s the color was also very nice and as expected.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bluemooncamera.com/services.php">http://www.bluemooncamera.com/services.php</a></p>

<p>"Objects seen through viewfinder are closer/bigger than they appear"</p>

<p>The above list is NOT exhaustive, and there exist many other labs like Dwaynes etc.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/labs_services.php?doc=bw">http://www.digitaltruth.com/labs_services.php?doc=bw</a><br>

<a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/links.php">http://www.digitaltruth.com/links.php</a><br>

<a href="http://www.mylab.com/film_processing.htm">http://www.mylab.com/film_processing.htm</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.mylab.com/">Images Photo</a> (mylab.com)develops a roll of 135/120 for $5.50, the cheapest I've seen in US so far. Let me know if you know even cheaper ones which accepts mail order.</p>

<p><img src="http://images.orkut.com/orkut/photos/OgAAAKjazr5USbUdCIuGhNNv3DPwDkv8nQJYxck4L44Nc7bOxqo0l3t5SpOaZmY-tfmTDDC3rSJE4-1e3_A5SIOO9BwAm1T1UEHnWr3N6bpan9PP0_OyT1BytyCw.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="529" /><br>

<strong>Wall graffiti , Old Velvia 50</strong></p>

<p>I use many a times a redhancer filter to increase the saturation of red(ish) tones.</p>

<p>25 polarizers compared:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html" target="_blank">http://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html</a></p>

<p><strong>How about this?</strong><br>

<a href="http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=26445095">http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=26445095</a></p>

<p>Do they accept Fuji E6 films enclosed in Kodak mailers?</p>

<p>Though Fuji mailers did good processing, they came back with an unacceptable amount of dust on the slides.</p>

<p>Search for Nikon MV-1, Nikon MC-31, Nikon MC-33, nikon MC-34, Nikon MC-27</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3383/3502897634_d630711f39_d.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="336" /><br>

Nikon F5<br>

Nikkor Ai-S 105 2.8f micro<br>

Fuji Reala 100</p>

<p>How about Bourne and Shephard? I got very good results with Fuji Reala, a couple of years back. Got good experience with velvia 50/100 also</p>

<p>I've the same 24mm AF ,non D, version of the lens bought 2nd hand in 2005, I got it almost in mint condition and its working perfectly till date. Moreover I bought two Ai-S lenses, the 105 micro nikkor 2.8 and the 135 mm 2.8 and they are working flawlessly.<br>

The flash system works better, as I know, with D (distance info.) lenses compared to non-D lenses</p>

<p>A digital module exists for Leica R8 and R9 I beleive</p>

<p>There are several "better picture guide" books on various genre of photography, viz. landscape, b/w, color n composition, portrait and others. For many of the pictures presented there, the 'seeing', 'thinking' and 'acting' details are presented. Hope these will serve your purpose.<br>

You can preview many of thes series books from google books. Here are a few links:<br>

http://books.google.com/books?id=xyimOCdK-JEC&printsec=frontcover&dq=better+photo+guide&lr=<br>

http://books.google.com/books?id=CxK_RstAKkkC&printsec=frontcover&dq=better+photo+guide&lr=<br>

http://books.google.com/books?id=UWlWWaHZrcEC&printsec=frontcover&dq=better+photo+guide&lr=#PPP1,M1<br>

http://books.google.com/books?id=YGYsQVyGttsC&printsec=frontcover&dq=better+photo+guide&lr=#PPP1,M1</p>

 

<p>I wish to build up a MC-33 type data cable for my Nikon F5. The 10 pin Nikon connecter being an important component of it.<br>

Is it possible to use an MC-30 remote cable for building the connector? Does the MC-30 have internally 10 wires? Which are normally colored red, brown, gray, purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, white and black.<br>

Alternatively can a MC-27(for N90) data cable be used for the same purpose? Does the MC-30 and MC-27 has same internal wire layout and color code?<br>

Thanks in advance</p>

<p>Here's an example of partial internal wiring of MC-27 but is it same aslo in MC-30?<br>

<img src="http://www.sportsshooter.com/rritari/nikon_pw_cable/images/3.jpg" alt="" /></p>

 

<p>about 4-5 years back I used to do it from brenner foto</p>

<p>I always found my scanned films are much less 'punchy' than digital or may be I don't do enough post processing<br>

Here's some of my scanned images, most of them are scanned by high end Nikon Coolscan series, at quite high resolution.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/somakray/</p>

<p>just a quick example, say in a sunny day u'r shooting at f/16 using 100 ISO, and the shutter spped according to 'sunny 16' rule will be 1/100 sec.. If you'r polarizer has a two stop filter factor, your shutter speed becomes 1/25 sec. 1/25 sec. is generally not suitable for giving a silky look to the waterfall, for that you'll be needing a two more stops reduction, in effect using a 4 stop ND filter.<br>

If you need around 2 stops of light reduction for that case a polarizer will serve the dual purpose I beleive.</p>