SCL

<p>I think you are thrashing about, and need to really narrow your focus. In a film camera, what film do you want to use....35mm, 120 film or another format. If you don't know, then don't even think about looking for a camera at this juncture. 35mm film cameras will be the most prevalent, and the most convenient, both in terms of potential repairs and availability of film and processing. 120, as Dave mentioned is excellent, but if you aren't doing your own processing, it quickly becomes expensive. Forget other formats, the films are either no longer available, or highly expensive, or you have to respool or cut and/respool your own after getting the right alternative sizes. When the Yashica Electros are working properly and in good shape (rangefinder well adjusted, lenses clear and free of haze, cleaning marks, etc), they deliver excellent sharpness and contrast. You can find much better deals in film bodies than the prices you mentioned. My local charity stores routinely carry working 35mm film cameras for $4-10....some are really good, like the Olympus Stylus I picked up for $8 and the Canon Sure Shot Megazoom 105 which went with me in my car for several years, and cost me all of $7. If you learn to do your own processing, the costs of operation of any camera diminishes after the initial investment in equipment and chemicals. Whereas local processors used to be in every drugstore and grocery chain, few handle film any longer.</p>

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<p>Probably a useful thing for you to have is a ND filter which would effectively reduce the ISO of your film. They come in various strengths, I usually keep a 1 stop and a 3 stop on hand.</p>

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<p>Jesper - Yes the Rangefinder Forum.</p>

<p>Yes there is a crop factor as the sensor size is not the same as a 645 negative. I noticed in the RFF that this issue was discussed at length.</p>

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<p>What you plan to do with it, IHMO, is an important factor in which one to get. Years ago I had a used 300/2.8 from a news agency and it was monstrous, big and heavy...but it really brought in my subjects. These days I use 400mm lenses only for birding, and not the 2.8..they're just too big and heavy.</p>

<p>You could use Paypal to receive payments in advance, there's a fee, of course, but it is an easy method.</p>

<p>Mukul - thanks for the clarification.</p> <p>Steve</p>

<p>In looking at the picture, I remembered seeing something similar in some shots taken with a Leica screw mount camera which didn't have the leader properly trimmed....the film hadn't properly seated in the gate, but the film wound on and shutter operated anyway, leaving the film askew, but exposed anyway.</p>

<p>I don't know whether to laugh or cry, having been down this road a few times in the past. I've found really good success with one thing you didn't mention....a grip cut from rubber drawer liners....the kind which looks flimsy and is also sold as jar openers and coasters.</p>

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<p>It is one of the screwmount models, hard to tell for sure exactly which one, as all of the parts aren't photographed, and lots of times over the years pieces of one were used in repairs of another. The paint job is terrible, probably done by an amateur, which significantly reduces its value. Not enough info to make a guess on value, for instance what is its working condition, shutter speeds accurate, covering intact, any scratches, wear marks, etc. in the finish? Is the viewfinder/rangefinder clear without haze, dirt, fungus. Are the shutter curtains in good shape without pinholes or weak spots? What about the lens, does everything move smoothly, are the elements clear without haze, cleaning marks, dust, fungus, or scratches? If I was considering purchase from what info I can see and what is given, I'd pay no more than $50 USD, assuming I'd need to get the body and lens CLA'd, possibly the body recovered, etc.</p> <p>If everything was clean, worked, etc. it might fetch $4-500 at most, given the paint job.</p>

<p>Too much body corrosion, translates into mechanical corrosion. Lenses aren't clear. I wouldn't touch it even for $10. Not good even for parts. Seller must be under the influence of something pretty strong to think it is worth anything more. It could be used as a doorstop, not much else.</p>

Olympus E-PL2, ISO 6400, Nikkor Q 200mm at f/8 1/10 sec<div></div>

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<p>A blast from the past. Olympus E-PL2 14-42mm kit lens.</p><div></div>

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<p>I picked up a Contax RX (along with several Yashica bodies) a couple of years ago, along with several Zeiss lenses. Eventually sold off some of the lenses and picked up their Yashica equivalents for a lot less money....some just about matched the Zeiss, except for micro contrast. The 1.7 planar you have is a fine lens IMHO. The higher end Contax bodies, like the RTS, are really gorgeous and fwiw, very ergonomic. I'm not sure about the RTS, but the RX viewfinder lights up bright and clear with the appropriate info prominently displayed. The later cousin of your RTS, the RTS III, used a vacuum mechanism to ensure flatness of the film at the film plane.</p>

<p>You can go into your local drug store/pharmacist and check the reading glasses which are marked in actual diopters. Just be aware that some older cameras have their viewfinders with a built in -0.5 diopter. Usually if you are using the OEM diopters, once you know what strength you need, you order the manufacturer's stated diopter and it takes into account the -0.5 of the viewfinder (for instance with these cameras if you needed a +3, you would order a +3 knowing it would actually be a +3.5). This is one place where reading the fine print in the specs pays off in not enduring endless frustration (I went thru this stupid exercise years ago with a camera and ended up with 3 accessory diopters before finding which one which worked for my eyesight). These days I wear my eyeglasses all the time, so on some (-0.5) bodies I need a +0.5 correction; the mfrs offer what they call a 0 diopter which does the trick (since I want to bring the result to zero for my glasses).</p>

<p>Eric - If it is indeed in mint condition the viewfinder/rangefinder will be clear, crisp and well aligned, and all the shutter speeds will be dead on, as well as cosmetics being (almost) perfect). When and if you do put it up for sale, make sure you have tested all shutter speeds, as well as the rangefinder for accuracy at infinity, and attach lots of photos of the body and/or lens. When these things come from private owners who haven't thoroughly checked them out or know their repair history, it is hard to command a good price. Claiming it is in mint condition is easy to do, but from a buyer's standpoint it had pretty well meet all the criteria of mint condition or you will get it sent back to you for a refund.</p> <p>By the way, it is a terrific camera when it is clean, internally and externally, and competently adjusted. And just so you know....it doesn't take a battery...it is thoroughly mechanical.</p>