Dustin McAmera

Pinhole with the Century Graphic.

Zeh Goldi 3x4cm

Sorry - no cat :(

Oh, McKeown lists Yogi Bear! In the past, 'classic' in the forum name has caused a few members to get grouchy when everyone interprets it to mean 'old', with no quality criteria; but as you say, most of us know what belongs here.

Ensign box camera. 15 seconds at f/16!

FED Mikron.

Saltaire, West Yorkshire.

What does the front set of blades look like from the front, when stopped down to a small aperture? I ask because I found a patent by Deckel (makers of Compur shutters) for an iris with two sets of blades. One set forms the aperture, but, for the sake of compactness, fails to cover its own periphery completely when stopped down. The second set of blades is for that. The two sets of blades are on the same pivot pins and are closed by the same adjusting ring. Here's the US patent: https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/originalDocument?CC=US&NR=2949076A&KC=A&FT=D&ND=3&date=19600816&DB=&locale=en_EP# and the British one: https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/originalDocument?CC=GB&NR=804589A&KC=A&FT=D&ND=3&date=19581119&DB=&locale=en_EP# both at the European Patent Office site.

Ah - in the old time, that was what you had to do to get a line break. You young 'uns won't remember, but to us oldies, it seems like just yesterday!

This looks like the second shutter blind not closing smoothly. The different exposure suggests the blind pauses half-way across, so it shouldn't be a problem with the electromagnets that release the blinds. The dark microprism ring suggests the aperture isn't opening back up either, but that may well be caused by the shutter problem.<p> If you are really fond of the camera, and can find a place near you to do service on it, and can afford to, I'd get it checked professionally.<p> I have once fished a scrap of torn film out from the space where the shutter runs, in one of my SLRs. The shutter had made an unusual noise when running, and when I looked I could see the edge of the scrap, so I didn't have to dismantle anything, just pull gently with tweezers. It may be worth seeing what you can see in the back.

<p>KW Pilot Super.

My hoard:<p> 2¼-inch square folders, including some that can do 2¼ square as one of two or more sizes:<p> Agfa Isolette III; Certo Super Sport Dolly (two of those; they also do 4.5x6, or 2¼x1⅝, since I started in inches!); AGI Agifold; Ensign Ranger Special (also does 2¼x3¼ with hinged masks); Century Graphic (I have backs for 2¼ square and 2¼x3¼)<p> 'Sort-of 2-inch square' folder: Atom Six II. This folder takes 120 film, but it has a large margin round the image. The image is 53mm square, or you can put in a reducing mask for sixteen frames 50x43mm - what sort of size is that? <p> 2¼ TLR: only a Lubitel 166B.<p> 2¼ square SLR: KW Pilot Super.<p> 4cm TLR: Yashica 44 and 44LM.<p> 4cm Others: Kodak Brownie 44A<p><p><p> From the Pilot Super: the old paper mill in Otley, West Yorkshire:<p>

I'm in the UK too. I have a Pro (no TL). I buy most of my film (over the web) from Ag Photographic in Birmingham and FotoImpex in Germany. Shipping from Germany makes sense if I'm ordering enough. I develop almost all of my own film now, but I have used Peak Imaging in Sheffield with no complaints. You might enquire at Newton Ellis in Liverpool about service/repair. I haven't used them myself.

<p><p>Balda Jubilette, APX100

Clearly there need to be rules for contests so everyone is playing the same game. The PSA Nature Division rules are interesting to read; they have foreseen some of the difficult cases (or solved them when they came up, maybe). Photos of barn owls and storks, which nest in buildings, can obviously include the barn or the chimney, and so show more of the presence of man than most; and your bear can even be wearing a radio collar!

Also, no cats, dogs, cows or sheep. Perhaps no house-mice or rats?<p><p> I watched a documentary about the US National Parks (can't give a proper citation to it, but I guess some of the US readers here will have seen the same thing), which argued that they had been radically changed by the exclusion of resident people, whose influence had helped to define what nature was in those places for a very long time. So they implied that these places were artificial spaces, not really natural, just because people had been removed.<p><p> Here (I'm British) our National Parks are different: they are just areas covered by extra planning law, and though rural, still have a lot of residents. The landscape is often defined by centuries of upland farming. If we photograph the plants and wildlife in these places, we definitely show a 'nature' as edited by human activity.<p><p> I see a recent news article about a similar theory about the Amazon forest: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-39149334

I probably should never have answered this post in the first place, since the OP asked about metering for his Canon 5D, and I use only film cameras; but I did join in and am now reading the other replies. I also know what I'm saying here doesn't apply for flash, or mixed-source lighting.<p><p> I think people get too hung up on metering. If I bracket my exposure in one-third stops, I have a hard time choosing which exposure I like. That again may be to do with the behaviour of film.<p><p> A long time ago, I read advice in my first photography book to try metering once, and using that reading for a quarter hour or so, or until I noticed the light had changed, and to concentrate on framing instead. I still do that often with most of my meterless cameras. I have no problem with reflective metering or auto-exposure, and I'll use them when the camera has them; but I confess that chimping seems downright sinful to me!

However good the camera's metering is, it can't do incident-light (surely?). I don't know the meters you mentioned, but I have a little Sekonic L308 (seems to cost about a quarter of the price of a 758). It has made me a big fan of incident metering, and it's tiny, so I rarely go out without it.

What I said, then deleted, was that the FD 100 macro is an f/4; it really wouldn't do for your non-macro short tele. William's answer (the 85 and a tube) is a good one.