steakandale
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Posts posted by steakandale
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Of cousre if he's only out to get those punks who are egging his house at night... get night vision binocs with digital camera added in. I think the monoculars have a camera adapter too, that would be fun to play around with.
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looking good. This lens is the most recent addition to my bag. I've had it about a week. It does have some weight compared to a prime (pretty obvious I suppose). Time for more shooting!
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Some M3 owners opt to replace the finder with a newer type. There was such an M3 on <a href="http://www.sherrykrauter.com/productsPage.php?category=mCameras" >Sherry Krauter's site</a> for sale with that mod. I don't know how much $$$ that is to have done though, search on it. : )
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Just saw the same question go by the travel forum in the last week or so...
<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ErPY&tag=" >Tucson area shooting</a>
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The D50 with an SB800 can use ittl. You have to set the SB800 to another mode for the D100.
These are the available flash exposure control modes on an SB800:
1. i-TTL Balanced Fill-Flash with Nikon D2* series D70 and D50
2. D-TTL Balanced Fill-Flash with Nikon D1 series or D100
3. TTL Auto Flash with many film SLRs, including the Nikon F5, F100, F80 (N80), F75 (N75), F65 (N65) and FM3A,
4. Auto Aperture Flash [AA],
5. Non-TTL Auto Flash [A] with many film SLRs, including the Nikon F55 (N55) and FM10,
6.) Manual Flash [M]
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Ok all silliness aside, Ilkka, this was a paying job, to produce the best portrait possible given the circumstances. This is fixing a boo-boo the same as removing a flash cord in the corner or a wad of kleenex that doesn't belong. I see nothing unethical about it (can't use dog's playing poker without permission though). I feel this is the BEST possible use of photoshop. Another reason to do it is that is such a great photo from the wall forward. Very sharp and colorful and a good looking group too. Great work Stacy. Definately worth saving. I hope you can do it for less than lab prices though : )
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Wow you all are so good! I didn't think of copying in another picture.<div>
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Its good, and is worth presenting to them after cloning out the people and light, if its any kind of album shot or enlargement costing additional money. For that shot I kind of wanted to see the bride more, my only real complaint.
I like both versions.
As far as recommendations for future shots? In the first photo my honest reaction is that it looks a little too posed for my taste.
I was more comfortable with the second where the fountain is used as added context to your background.
I think including parts of the venue are important if they spent the bucks on holding the wedding there over just some hall somewhere.
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Some of those responses sound like that OTHER forum. saying someone's "mind is closed to the possibilities" or "this post is silly-esp the cost issue" are just firing shots across the bow without really getting the point being made.
I too am an experienced IT professional with about 20 yrs, the primary PC tech support in my house. I shoot film and digital.
I DREAD the amount of time necessary to finish the job the camera should do. I don't want auto-everything, but there should NOT be some 29 step processes to complete one, let alone ALL my pics either!
I'm always thinking to myself that I'm doing about the same amount of sharpening to a majority of my files - why should I HAVE to?
Nikon boasts about some multi-million picture database that their evaluatinve metering uses to base exposure information on. I hope future advances will put those same PS steps Im doing to each and every photo into the camera. Save the photoshopp altering for fixing or saving borderline situations - not doing work the camera should be doing.
Whats wrong with another option in the menu system:
Film Look Mode: =Velvia =Provia =NPS160 =NEOPAN DONE
Film will never beat being able to switch ISO mid-roll, high ISO performance and all that, but getting the finished roll back and seeing what you really NAILED in a finished product is a thrill that digital doen't quite get at least not yet.
I think thats what Norman was getting at.
Besides I have two school age boys and an Auditor in the house, sometimes the wait for the PC is as long as waiting for processing.
I have a B/W roll almost finished in my N80, can't wait to see it!
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I keep wondering if the firmware will advance to the point where we will someday see a noise free iso3200... do I hear iso 6400? If that comes to fruition even f4.5 will cut the mustard in most suitable situations. I can dream can't I?
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For zoom that serves both, you have to stick with a non-DX film lens. The 18-35 f3.5-4.5 is about the only one near your budget but it is over $400 new. maybe you can snag a used one in top shape for a better price.
Your 28 will become something less than a 35mm on the D70 so there is not that much loss, unless you really live on the wide end. Another option would be to pick up a used super wide prime. The 18-35 will overlap your existing zoom over half its range too. You are only talking about a one lens jump in focal length range from super wide to wide so the loss in convenience in not having a zoom is minimal - have to change lenses either way - but you will get a faster lens going to a good prime.
The DX kit lens for the D70 is a decent lens too, but wont do anything for the N8008.
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I am a D50 user.
It's autofocus is as fast as my N80, I have NO trouble with it in low light, I even have the horribly annoying AF assist illuminator turned off via the custom functions menu. If you understand that it is a contrast biased sensor and find something with enough contrast to place the cross sensor over, it works very well in low light using focus-hold recomposition.
It produces the same RAW size as the D70 with the added benefit of a year or two's advancement in improved high ISO performance (1600 is decent but not perfect).
One function dial = true but you have the exposure comp button to move fstop while in Manual mode, and wheel the shutter speed. I only use A-auto or manual anyways. A minor pain, but if you learn the equipment you have...
Flash, it doesn't have the commander mode the D70/D200 have, but I dont see that as any showstopper. I dont want flash from the camera position ideally anyways, I am going to get a second SB800 and go twin flash with complete control. No-biggie there either.
Now having to use two diffent card types when I add a D200 to my bag?, = Nikon's biggest mistake with the D50 im my opinion. That one irks me.
Maybe having the two diffent cards will keep track of what camera did which card, I'll worry about that one later.
I just shot a bar-mitzvah using the D50 and it saved the day over what film would have captured (2.5 hours of kids running around in cave lighting).<div>
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There are so many references to hyperfocal that I'm not sure I follow or understand exactly what Brad set his lens to.
"At infinity focus" is not hyperfocal focusing. Even though there is a large range of "acceptable focus" using hyerfocal, you still have to place the focus point EXACTLY where you want the highest focus. There is still a difference between exact focus and the range of acceptable focus within the hyperfocal span.
Hyperfocal is at its most effective use when it appears to extend your possible focus within a difficult focus situation, as in a "fool the eye" type of picture, like a field of flowers combined with distant mountains. Hyperfocal with a large group still would require pinpoint focus on about the second row, and the front and back rows will borrow from the hyperfocal slightly to appears almost as sharp. So I suspect manual focus would be most appropriate.
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There are only a couple of ways to go. Most of the Sea$Sea and Reefmaster type cameras are underwater oriented, so they will be mostly wide-angle only and underwater flash is another big cost on those types.
I think for a water proof surface camera that will get banged around, a water proof 5mp P&S will be the best cost alternative. They are small. light and fast.
There are some DSLR housings like EWA-Marine that start around $300 or so but I'd be nervous to try one with a brand new camera! That will push her over $1,000 quick but will give more options and control - maybe a lot to handle (size, weight and balance) from a surf board though... She might prefer to just grab quick snaps.
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My Leica disease is starting to take on new symptoms, I'm shopping
used equipment locally. I only encountered two 35mm summicrons, both
black and I suspect are the latest varients.
The first was spotless, looked unused price $1,500. The problem was
the focus had a tiny warble to it and bound slightly mid-range.
The second was a user priced at $899 and it stuck on both ends of its
range and was very tight from the one meter mark to nearest focus.
I haven't done much leica fondling so I dont know how typical that
might be? Is it from sitting around on a shelf? or has someone been
playing basketball with these? Should any binding should be present
at these prices?
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Oops bad tag<br>
<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3963872-lg.jpg">
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Does anybone remember these characters as some band's album cover?<br>
<img src="http://www.photo.net/photo/3963872">
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best zoom lens for weddings
in Wedding & Event
Posted
I suggest you search on "zoom" "wedding" "reception" "processional" and you will see tons of informative answers, all tailered to different needs.
Unless you provide more criteria information you will get a lot of varying answers as this is a "can of worms" type of question.
If you are shooting a less than "full frame" digital you be needing help at the wider end of the range.
$1,500 or more 17-35 F2.8 Nikon is one of their best, or Canon"L" equivalent?
or $700-$900 35-70 F2.8 Nikon D or canon "L" equivalent and a 17mm, or 20mm prime for less $$$$
Many also like to snipe with the 80-200 F2.8's as well. These higher end lenses can also be picked up used for very good prices. You might be better off that way than buying lesser zooms and regretting it later.
If you are film only, you dont need to go much wider than 35mm other than special effect type shots as care must be taken to avoid freakish distortion of people at the edge of the frame.
Then, you say "good(FAST)" "Nothing too heavy" those kinda go together along with $$$$
search - is your friend