steakandale

Bob Ross; "Oh there's a happy little tree. right over there. zzzzz"

I want to call it from a cell phone and remote command it over the internet.

 

Ok not really I'm going to run a roll of b/w good old fashioned film through my Om1 just to see if I am still sane.

I can't beleive this. I lent out my OM1n (my first real SLR) to my

dad for long-tem loan astro-photography use. I think I need to buy

him a $69 bargain OM1 and get mine back! This forum is making me

want to use it again. Show me your OM1 and OM2 photos especially if

you recovered.

I guessed who DAH was, but wasn't entirely sure. I must have seen it here before. Its vital to study masters, and expose yourself to all styles. I just don't think any one man or woman should be so highly revered. Its kind of gross. Reminds me of conceited architecture professors who use "Meis", and "Corbu" all the time, like they are in love or something...

Barry - I'm speachless at that one. Maybe that guy thought he was at "tailhook"...

Anyone seen this show? I thought it might showcase mega-buck

weddings like Oprah used to show once in a while, but intead its

nothing but disasters, mishaps and drunk people acting up. Pretty

crazy.

Any new wedding disaster stories anyone like to share?

Visene?

I always wanted to know what Gila Monster would look like...<div></div>

I'm an N80 user. It's a great camera and has all the features you need. I think the F100 (sometimes referred to as a baby F5) has a metal chasis, its an "F" so better sealing and moisture resistance. and faster autofocus. The N80 is NOT restricted to any lens type I shoot with 2.8D lenses and do not own a "G". If you are a student, buy the N80. If it falls into a toilet buy another one. If you are slapping it on a credit card, thats another life lesson only experience teaches you - lay off them darn things. Buy an N80

Also "check" your expectations at the door. I mean to say that you may be shocked at an extremely LOW response, but its human nature. Expecially if its optional. Maybe offer them a free or 1/2 price 8X10 or something. Or cookies!

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*SEARCH* theres a lot of hits on that question.

I think there are at least three versions. I think, they are optically the same. Oldest is a push-pull, no tripod collar. middle has tripod mount, good cuz it has some weight. The latest is VR, soooo yeah that one is best

Matthew, I agree with Nadine completely. Never use pressure tactics, but when they said they look forward to...xxx they either put the ball in your court or left it vague.

 

In sales and business, never leave the ball in your court, or let an offer die on your side of the table. I dont know how much time has passed, but responding to that last communication from them with your contract, and "just return the signed contract, and (non-refundable, or the N.R. part of) deposit/retainer to lock down the date" is not pressure from you, but is good opportunity to close the deal, and totally within your rights. Sounds like a good one Go get 'em.

A quick way to get closest to the exposure you want is to meter the background in-camera using aperture priority, setting the fstop you want. You may not need as high a number/small opening as f5.6 for people two rows deep depending on distance from them and the lens used. THEN switch to Manual mode fstop the same, set the shutter to one, sometimes two speeds slower than the reading Amode gave you, shoot, and "chimp" (look at the results in the LCD preview)

Also try to use ISO400 to start with for better quality.

When you preview, zoom in on the front row and back row. check focus. check background. Now keep in mind your taking a group portrait, not a cover shot for Church Decorating Magazine, I would aim for a nice resemblance of the stained glass and not anything sharp or detailed (if the natural light is low), the smaller fstops will push the background down and provide a nice gentle separation. give more emphasis on the people, which is the sole aim.

 

Dragging the shutter is forcing a slower exposure, to tell the viewer more about the background, and the flash does the rest.

The auto modes can't do this, since by program, they automatically pair your fstop with its equivalent shutter speed, which is too high for the background, and bomb with flash giving a black background.

I think with a lot of the shots the photographer would call iffy are actually ok a majority of the time. Remember that customers don't edit photos daily, and see everything through their own "filters" of knowing the persons personality, quirks and affects and can quickly recognize the REAL person they see in the photo, even if you don't because all that added information is not stored on your brain already.

 

They also can look at an entire roll of theirs from a birthday and say "that's no so bad" a lot!

 

As pros and artists, I think there is a real tendency to always want more, and have the highest expectations for your own work, but its easy to forget that an average picture for you may be something awesome or even unattainable to someone else.

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Results:

 

For $18 this gizmo is one of the lowest cost, usefull items you can buy with the word Nikon on it. I can forsee lots of side uses for it, almost none being cheesy self photos. I think every digi owner should get one. I used an automitive inspection mirror to help get the signal into the IR receiver.

 

15 mins is waaaaay too short on the D50. Remote setting should remain until undone, can anybody hack the firmware?

 

So far the birds are being shy. Its funny, but using a camera remotely is HARDER than being there. Without adjustments on the fly, every picture is a potential "almost", you get to see what setting got missed after its too late.

Yes, the blind would be the best solution for the best quality photos. I want to see if it works, and if it may be a solution in the field for something more usefull. Like a cliff edge shot using a long pole, or high up in a tree where I wont bother a nest or something.

 

I just got back from the camera shop with the new remote. I need to update the my D50's wait to the max 15 mins before shutting down remote mode. and plant my stick - crud, I forgot the bird seed! I'll post what happens - or doesn't

Compared to film I think digital has less latitude than slide film for sunsets. In fact digital almost suques in certain extreme contrast sunsets for holding detail in the shadows. Plan on two captures for extreme brightness shadow conditions, and merge them in PS and use grads.

 

You can also view histogram or the mode circling the blown-out areas where there is no value left (all white). Looking at histograms is something I would like to hear more on from the experts. I think you just want to aim for an even distribution of values across the range, but they always look a little one sided to me.

 

Also dont get too trash-can happy based on the LCD monitor, it just doesnt compare to viewing the scene on a real monitor.

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I thought you could follow with any animal, the log, or fur

whatever. I thought it would take off and be longer than most

threads, but it is hard to follow and I can see where it can get

stuck easily. You just have to think a little differently each tie.

I sort of cheated with the third "eyes up" picture, I guess next

should have been "orange", or "snow" so some slack is ok (I said

so!) OK enough words

My son did a lot of bat-boy duty at Spring training. The above matches everything I saw out there, most were the ubiquitous White bazookas.

 

Now my favorite shot of the entire McGuire-Sosa home-run race was the wide angle shot of (I think) number 70 coming in for a landing shot from the back bleachers!

Hmm... This thread has not quite taken off like I thought it would.<div></div>

I would like to try the nikon remote and experiment with some staged

bird photos from my yard where I can rig up a stump or tree limb,

control the background and get some decent shots with my non-bird-

length lenses.

 

I see it has a range of around 17 feet, then I noticed it said "from

the front" which is another letdown. Can I use it at an oblique

angle, or use a small mirror? this is getting worse and worse isn't

it?

Sheesh Jonas, they just about all cost that much. Try switching to decaf.

 

This is a legit question, for anyone who has tried taking pictures of aircraft.

 

Al, I much prefer slower shutter speeds, 1/125 to 1/60 it will give the prop circle nicer definition and the blades about a quarter to third of a rotation in a nice blur. I think frozen props are a lot less interesting, also due to the shutter movement and the prop speed, faster speeds sometimes freeze the prop in a fake bent-like-a-banana look.