Stephen_Prunier

Ordered my D750 from B&H today. It will arrive tomorrow!!!

<p>Glad you were able to fix it. Thanks for the info.</p>

<p>Just checked my owners guide. Check to see if you locked the shutter release button by mistake. Check that the R-M lever is set in the middle. Have you had the lens off the body? You may need to reset the pin on the lens. Also, make sure you double check that you advanced the film lever as far as it will go. I know that one has gotten me in the past.</p>

<p>I haven't tried them yet, but will. This company gets high marks in my area, Boston, MA). <a href="http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com/">http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com/</a></p>

<p>I use the RZ67. Have you checked to see if the R-M Lever is in the middle position? If it's in the R position, the camera will think you want to rotate the back. M is for multiple exposure. Please keep us updated. There's a lot of RZ users out there, and any information is always appreciated. </p>

<p>I do it with medium format film. The film is attach to the spool with tape at the factory. After I have the first roll on the reel (I use plastic) I attach the second roll to the end of the first roll by using the tape. In theory, it's like using 220 in medium format. I don't know if you would have the extra room available with 35mm film.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help. I guess I'll continue to work in my darkroom for b&w. Seeing there isn't any talk by others doing it. I din't think it would become part of my hybrid workflow. </p>

<p>I was wondering if the scanned print would have the same quality as a high res scan of the neg. I have plenty of darkroom experience. I just think some techniques would be easier to do in PS. I don't mind most darkroom steps, but, I can do without bleaching and toning smells!</p>

<p>I currently use a Mamiya RZ for B&W. I have my own darkroom etc. However, I don't have a high end film scanner, just a basic HP 4050, which I use to make scans of my prints for the web etc. I've noticed that, when I open the scanned print in PS/LR I can still tweak the image even more. Until I get a better scanner for film. Would making 5x7", or 8x10" prints, and then scanning them for further editing as digital files be a good alternative? I do use a Nikon D200 for color, and I have a Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer. I'm thinking that, maybe I could make prints in the darkroom, then finish editing (dodge/burn etc.) in PS, and print digital, or wet. Do any of you use a similar work flow?<br>

Thanks</p>

 

<p>I don't use 4"x5", but I still work using my Mamiya RZ67. Usually with B&W. I still have my darkroom so I can have a contact sheet ready in a couple hours. I don't think you'll find many pro's doing catalog, product, or stock using film. But there's a few still doing it though.</p>

<p>I read an article similar to this topic. The author wrote that his way of doing this type of job was this. Ask them what their budget is without offending them. He likes to say to them "If I know your budget, I can show you what you will get for that amount of money" I like what he said. It's a lot easier pricing a job. It reminds me of being a kid in school 40 years ago, and it was time for the new school pictures. You would be given "Package Prices" $25 = 6@ 4x6", $50 = includes wallet size for all the relatives etc! Think of it that way and it becomes easier for all involved. Best of luck.</p>

<p>I do 0 @ 1000, but 50 @ 10000!<br>

True or False?<br>

:)</p>

<p>The F100/M15 is an AWESOME setup! When I got mine, I needed to purchase the MS-12 so I could use my L bracket with the ballhead. Locating and buying a new one was easy.</p>

<p>I have been using their "Legacy Pro" and it looks like thats being fazed out as well. They only show it online, and it's all "short date" :(</p>

<p>A little late here, but THANKS :)</p>

<p>I know you can use a D back on the RZ IID. With an adapter can you use one on the RZ II ?</p>

<p>I have had it happen on occasion with my F100! I'm starting to see a trend here.</p>

<p>I only have film cameras so I have invested in the chemicals & equipment needed to process my own B&W and E-6!!! After you have processed E-6 a few times it isn't bad. You just need to be able to keep the temp @ 100*/F. It takes 30 minutes. Screw Walmart!</p>

<p>I use and develop my own B&W and E-6. I do have a real good lab here in town that can do my E-6 in 4 hours. I'm probably going back to having them do my E-6. I don't own anything other than film cameras. So until film is no more or my photography business takes off and I have to go digital, I will shoot 70% E-6 30% B&W!</p>

<p>I went to school with this guy a long time ago (mid 70's) Check out his site <a href="http://www.theflyinglyon.com/">http://www.theflyinglyon.com/</a> I see his stuff hanging up from time to time. I wouldn't hesitate to contact him. I think he would be helpful as long as you stay far-far away from here! LOL</p>

<p>Nick,</p>

<p>I also have the HP G4050, what can Vuescan do to improve the scanner? When I scan slides I have better results than when I scan B&W but both can be hit or miss. For the most part I just crop and scan and do everything else PS CS2.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Are you referring to the Tamrac film holder? They have one that sounds like that. It has a flap and it can be attached to a bag or back pack. I think it holds 6 rolls.<br>

I didn't see the movie so I could be wrong in my thinking</p>

<p>I do have the Cokin P holder and I do use it at times. I meant more about whether (lens hoods) they are being used that often on the end of 35 mm camera lenses. Mine always stay on. But like I was saying it seems to me that after seeing Art Wolfe and others "not using" them I was wondering if I don't need to use them all the time. Maybe just have them with me and if the light is falling across the lense causing flair then put the hood on?<br>

Between being under the weather ie. sick and having a very important election tomorrow my brain is a little out of balance right now. So I apologies if I wasn't clear! LOL</p>

<p>I develop and mount my own E-6. I got the mounting device and the slide mounts in 100 to a box from Freestyle Photographic Supplies in Ca, USA. I know their not in europe but it may be worth checking them out. <a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz">http://www.freestylephoto.biz</a><br>

Looking at the box. They are made in Spain by AP Photo Industries<br>

Hope it was helpful</p>

<p>I have lens hoods on all of my lenses. But I tend to be lazy when it comes to using my filters. Reason being, it can be a real pain. All of my lenses take the same size filter so if I have a Polarizer on my 28mm then decide to change to my 35-70mm it takes some time. I also like to hand hold my Grads against the lens. I always take the hood off when using grads. Would keeping the lens hood on effect the grads? I shoot 95% Landscape/Nature and when I was watching Art Wolfe's show on PBS it looked like most of the time he wasn't using one. So that's what got me thinking about them.</p>