amund_aaeng

Jon Noble wrote:

"Im no expert but i know when ive underdeveloped.

Its when you get a lot of clear areas on every neg i.e. no shadow detail."

 

Uh, that is not correct. When you get lots of clear areas(no shadow detail) it`s always a sign of underexposure, not underdevelopment.

 

Developmnet mostly affects highlights, a underdeveloped neg will be very flat and dull.

Yes, that is correct.

I recommend development tubes from JandC http://www.jandcphoto.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=222

Very easy to use, and you don`t need a darkroom, they are easy to load in a changing bag. Buy an extra cap for every tube, that makes everything easier. When developing you have the extra cap ready with chemicals in it, and quickly change the caps, this you can do in a normal room with the lights switched off, the tube acts as a light-trap. If you can barely see your hands, it`s about dark enough. I once opened the tube with the lights on, before fixing, and the film wasn`t fogged...

9x12cm is the old european standard. Be shure you get 4x5 film , not 9x12, as there aren`t much film to be bought in 9x12.

Any 4x5 film should be clearly labeled as such.

Having kids are no excuse for not developing yourself, they do sleep sometime doesn`t they? :-)

 

IMO, shooting B&W film, you are giving at a lot of control by not developing at home.. And it`s very easy to do.

I just got a couple of boxes with 8x10 Classic 400, JandC has a great deal right now, 50 sheets for $69.99!

 

I have developed a couple of sheets in HC-110 dil. H and it looks great to me, not very different from Tri-X.

I exposed it at 200.

For what application?

 

And what is a Fugi? :-)

Buy a book about the basics of photogrphy.

If you used the D76 stock, your negs are overdeveloped. Dev time for TMY at 75 degrees are about 5 minutes. For 1:1 8 minutes.

What you usually do with solvent developers like D76 and XTOL is to dilute further than the stock solution. I`ve used XTOL 1:3 with luck, quite sharper than using it stock.

:-) I used dilution H(double of dilution B) 68deg. for 6 or 7.,5 minutes(I don`t remember exactly, first roll in HC-110)

Normal agitation(1st min. continious, then 10 seconds each minute)

Forgot to add: I like the sharpness you get with HC-110, nice tonality too. Not as small grain as D76/XTOL, but a classic look.

Rodinal, not Rodinol...

 

I prefer Tri-X in D76/XTOL or HC-110

Here`s a HC-110 sample.<div></div>

Keep your limes and other citrus fruits away from your darkroom is a good start :-)

Seriously, a second wash and some photoflo should take care of it, unless it`s stains from uneven development...

Paul, there must have or still are variations in Shen-Haos QC, as I have no problems whatsoever with mine, all movments positive and smooth and the finish is very nice. All knobs captive, the camera gives a sturdy impression.

If you plan to take the camera outside, take a look at http://www.wehmancamera.com/camera.html , it`s very light, but still sturdy and a joy to use.

 

Amund

This looks like uneven development, not light leaks.

I still have fresh APX 100 sheets, expires next year, and the quality is high, no problems at all..

You cannot reuse the developer, it`s meant to be used one-shot(I belive it can be reused with replensihment though..)

 

The stop and fix can be reused. Most stop-baths change color when exhusted, and one litre of fix I normally use for about ten rolls.

It may be an issue with Kodak`s and Fuji`s holders, but I have not noticed this using a Polaroid 545..

I`d say Tri-X 400 pushed to 800 would do that. The push will increase the contrast, developmnet in straight D76 or XTOL will keep the grain fine...

That`s an easy one, Jessops Pan 100s IS Agfa APX 100.

I bet you can find some times for APX 100 :-)

If you guys read Agfa`s chart even closer, you`ll find that the 1:50 17min`s is for a recommended EI of 160

Presto 400=Neopan 400

Edge writing is identical.

Jessops 400=APX 400.....

 

Jessops 100=APX 100

 

Ugly and grainy is the perfect description of APX 400, it`s my least favorite 400 film. I love APX 100...

Ilford XP2 is a dyebased C-41 film and very different from Tri-X.You really can`t compare them....

I like Tri-X in D76 1:1, it`s a classic....