amund_aaeng

Kodak E100VS would put you in the ballpark, but with a little more punchy colors.

 

But I have to say that what you see here is more the results of great lighting/photographer(s)/film format than the film alone....

 

And the film format (4x5) contributes quite a lot more to the overall look than you might think.

I have and use the ATL-1500 and it`s a GREAT machine.

I mainly use it for B&W and some C-41. I set it up in the bathroom, hooked up to the shower. For B&W and 2-bath C-41 there`s no need for super tight temperature control, as the external feed is only used for the final wash in those processes. I usually keep the water temperature within 1-2C anyway though...

It also has 6 compartments for chemicals and you can make custom programs with any of these if you wish.

 

Highly recommended.

Godfrey wrote: " just like the distinction between a Pentax 645 and a Pentax MX focusing screen." The screen itself is of course larger, but when you look through the viewfinder:

 

The MX has a wonderful huge VF, and if you put the 645 to one eye, and the MX on the other, you`ll find the MX`s VF actually appears just as large, if not even larger... Try it :-)

Your store scans looks really good, so you wouldn`t see much(if any at all) difference for web use if you bought your own.

 

Don`t even consider a flatbed scanner, you will get much wore results than your store scans.

:-) You never know...

I use the largest f.64 backpack.

It`s filled with a Wehman 8x10", two lenses(250mm Fujinon and 16 1/2 inch R.D.Artar) 6-7 film holders, dark cloth, autoknips selftimer, Sekonic light meter, notebook and pen, loupe and a couple of cable releases. Works great for me.

I don`t know anything about Gyro stabilizers but I ended ut spending an half-hour reading about them, and you`ll find some relevant articles on Kenyons website: http://www.ken-lab.com/html/article_manual.html As you picture is going to be printed that large, I`d go for maximum sharpness, gyro or not, and use the fastest shutter speed I could get away with. The Sironar is tack sharp at f/5.6 and huge DOF is rarely need in Aerials... Just my 0.5 uniformed cents... :)

I used 5 minutes for TXP rated at EI 250. Shadow detail was just as I wanted and highligts came out great. You can pretty much use Kodaks suggested times, and adjust from there. Kodaks times are more often than not spot on.

I`ve just started using Xtol with TXP in my ATL-1500, and couldn`t be happier. I use it 1:1. 600ml for 12 sheets.

A Fujinon 250mm f/6.7 is just the right lens for you IMO.

I have one myself and it`s my most used lens.

http://www.fujifilm.ie/accessible-pages/pdfs/professional/film/neopan_100_acros1.pdf

From Steve Simmons over at the LFF:

 

"If you use an alkiline fixer (TF4 or TF3) then you do not need the second bath. This is according to Gordon Hutchings, If you use a Rapid Fix or acid fix then maybe, depending to the alkilinity of your water. But generally, with a rapid fix or acid fix Hutchings recommends the second bath. I called Hutchings this evening Feb 4, 2007.

 

 

steve simmons"

Ok, my old ME Super`s screen is excellent to focus on, I`d like something like that...

Is it easier to focus on the screen itself compared to the old screen?

 

I don`t use the split itself on old manual focus cameras(too time consuming with portraits), I prefer to see the subject snap into focus on the screen...

An uncropped K10D file is 57Mb, cropped to a square it will be 38,5Mb as a TIFF...

Brian, the Fomas *has* a blue base and was not stained by the FP4+. No worries.

"Thanks, I already have the 210mm Super-Angulon, and I'm expecting arthritis from carrying it around."

 

Wow, your dragging a 12x20 around and worry about some little extra weight from the Super-Angulon! Lol. ;-)

No Erik. There is no relation between Rolleipan 25 and APX 25.

Rich and Al, the site is set up by Fujifilm UK.

Sure, the Schneiders can be used on the Shen. I don`t think you can use the Horseman lens boards on the Shen, but that`s no problem, just check what size the shutters the Schneiders are mounted in, Copals are the most common, in sizes 0,1 and 3. it should say on the shutter wich type it is. And the order you Shen lens boards for the right shutter size. Good luck

"what is the difference btw using a infrared film and a infrared filter? will i get the same results?"

 

No, you have misunderstood, you`ll have to use a "infrared filter" with infrared film... IR-film isf ilm with sensitivity outside the normal visible spectrum, but you`ll still need the filter to block visible light.

They`re just selling from the last run from Agfa..

There is no company producing APX films..

Wehman only sell direct, no dealers. Great camera! :-)

I buy film from USA all the time(I`m in Norway) and have had no problems at all. I develop myself.

I have a 16 1/2 R.D.Artar in a Compur electronic 3, great shutter, and really accurate.

FWIW Jorge (I`m not using BTZS, It`s usually "print and pray":-)

I ended up with an EI of 100 with my last box of the Classic 400(bought last summer from J&C) using PMK, with TXP I seem to get away with EI 200-250...