mike_halliwell

<p>Eric, try the D90 onwards..:-)</p> <blockquote> <p>http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/microsite/d90/en/advanced-function/</p> </blockquote> <p>it's a good read from the past. Not up to the D4, but it's been there a while.</p>

<p>As Ilkka mentioned, for the bike shot, your panning technique has to be perfect at the 1/125 it's taken on or there's going to be apparent camera shake. Sure you want a movement-blurred background and a sharp subject, but that's a pretty tricky skill. Equally, wide open the DoF is going to be very thin. Combine the 2 factors and you're playing the odds...1 in 10 maybe?</p> <p>There maybe, emphasis on <strong><em>maybe</em></strong>, an issue with the Nikon body not playing nicely with a non-Nikon lens. Try a Nikon 85mm f1.8 AFS and see if there are the same probs.</p> <p>Late Edit.<br> Just noticed this bit..</p> <blockquote> <p>I switched to <strong>manual focus</strong> but even with slow walking around or even just posing <strong>it was too slow</strong> to get the focus point where I wanted it and then focus meter etc..</p> </blockquote> <p>Could you explain a bit more about this process..are you using MF with the Green dot?</p> <p>Later Edit<br> You could try Face-Detect AF and see if it will follow the rider/passenger?</p>

<p>I've always found Nikon's Worldwide pricing 'Policy' truly baffling.</p> <p>...and this comes at an interesting time regarding Nikon profits....</p> <blockquote> <p>http://www.nikon.com/about/ir/ir_library/result/index.htm#y2015</p> </blockquote>

<blockquote> <p>I have in fact used the D800E at ISO 6400 in some occasions simply because it was very dark in some restaurants, and that was the only camera I had with me. Noise is of course serious at ISO 6400 such that there is not much sharpness and details left; that is, 36MP becomes totally meaningless although the image files remain large (in terms of number of bytes). There is nothing really wrong with using a D800/D810 in that manner; it definitely beats not having any image at all.</p> </blockquote> <p>Downsampled to say 9mpix, and printed to 10 x 8, is there a <strong><em>better</em> </strong>camera that would show cleaner results in this situation?</p> <p>I'd have thought the big downsample would have 'recovered' about 1 to 1.1/2 stops worth of ISO? Maybe I'm being overly hopeful!</p>

<p>So, should we expect all new Nikon DSLR's to be UHS II compliant from now on?</p> <p>XQD hasn't taken off and CF seems to have reached it's cost/speed limit.</p> <p>Apart from the actual reader/writer being different with the extra row of pins, just how different have the internals got to be to take full advantage of the much greater speed?</p>

<p>+1 Kent S.</p> <p>...or maybe from a 2nd hand dealer with a 30 or 90 day return policy.</p> <p>Grips are one of those things that, in general, are either going to work perfectly or be DOA. Battery box corrosion aside....it's not going to develop a terminal (sorry!) fault suddenly after you've had it for a few weeks.</p>

<p>No, it's not.</p> <p>Take Andly L's advice and use the money to take the actual kit you <em><strong>do</strong></em> have, somewhere nice.</p>

<p>The Nikon WU-1 will work with a PC via DSLR Dashboard; Sadly the Official the Nikon app is pretty poor.</p> <p>My D5300 works wifi-wise with my Windows XP netbook and my Nexus 7 via the above app.</p> <p>The D7<strong>2</strong>00 will have the same options built-in unless Nikon are really, really stupid. </p> <p>The WU-1 series adapters were purely a stop-gap...I feel wi-fi enabled cards are too.</p>

<p>Hummm, by <strong>up/down</strong>, do you mean what is effectively radial motion?</p> <p>My 18-55mm MKI (non VR), is pretty loose that way.</p>

<p>Prices from a respected 2nd hand retailer* (as opposed to flea bay) are...<br> D90s are selling for ~ £250<br> D7000s are selling for ~ £420<br> (D7100s are selling for ~£725)<br> Maybe the UK is skewed, but that's alot more than $125 difference....try $270!!!<br> <br> *mpbphotographic..........they have multiples for sale and it's interesting to see what they think will sell at what price.</p>

<p>Lech, don't forget to try Live View AF. It takes the human element out of the equation..:-)</p> <p>Make sure to use a high contrast target such as sharp newsprint or maybe invest in a purpose made device.</p>

<p>Hummm, with USB 3.0 offering 625 MB/s you almost wonder whether i would be quicker to shoot straight to a portable USB 3.0 SSD drive and leave the card out of it!! Afterall, SATA 6 gets to 500MB/s already.</p> <p>Might be a bit of a handful with a cable hanging out the side attached to a small black box..:-)</p>

<p>A D5300 and yup, a USB 3.0 machine.</p> <p>A phrase from the Sandisk page.. <em><strong>Full performance requires UHS-ll host.</strong></em></p> <p>From the D5300 PDF book is says.. UHS-1 compliant... same as the even more recent D810 PDF</p> <p>Guess I've found the answer! The camera is now 'old' tech and is the bottleneck!</p>

<p>LATE EDIT. That should be 250 MB/S Write and 280MB/s Read Speed.</p>

<p>Having just been sent a link about the new Sandisk Extreme Pro UHS II cards with a claimed 280 MB/s write speed, what rate is the camera sending it?</p> <p>What is the limiting factor or bottleneck now?</p>

<p>If you can pony up to about £190, the Sigma 17-70mm 2.8-4 OS HSM C, will beat everything....period.</p> <p>It makes my Nikon 16-85mm soft and slow.....everywhere. Time Nikon updated it to f4. VRIII. etc....</p>

<p>Dieter, Lebanese weather is as unpredictable as the UK...I've worked there for a bunch of years.</p> <p>What is your point, I don't understand?</p> <p>I could have phrased it as..</p> <blockquote> <p>In a country with the weather is as unpredictable as the UK's<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>does that help?</p>

<p>Just wondered why one might choose to use an expensive D4 (or a D3S) for time-lapse rather than a D800 or even a much, much cheaper D600/610?</p> <p>AFAIK a D610 is better in everyway for this kind of job...higher DR, higher bit depth and better High ISO.....and about 1/4 the price if nicked or drowned!</p>

<p>Try a shot using conventional AF and then a shot using zoomed LV AF, if the latter shot is soft too, it's <em>not</em> a fine tune issue.</p> <p>Maybe try this for 200, 300 and 400mm.</p>

<p>Someone trusted a weather forecast with $6000 of kit left outside with no protection what-so-ever? In a country with weather as unpredictable as the UK? Plain daft. <br /> <br /> Even 'light showers' with bundles of badly taped wires, exposed 12v batteries and upward pointed lenses is just casual to the point of careless.<br /> <br /> The $6000 doesn't even cover the D3S or the lenses! Double daft. Either more money than sense (+1 Bruce!) or he has a very understanding boss!<br /> <br /> I doubt Accidental Damage insurance would cover this sort of sillyness....contributory negligence springs to mind.<br /> <br /> There's a nice yellow, waterproof, indestructible wheeled Pelicase, but nothing's inside it! Doh!<br /> <br /> I'm glad it survived, but really?? Complete disassembly of 2 FX cameras and 2 lenses, full cleaning etc etc by a Nikon tech isn't going to come cheap. Could have got a nice couple of waterproof cases* for that $$$. <br /> <br /> If you've got water on the mirror, you've got a wet sensor too, so I can't believe the 'footage' is any good either, unless you want that spotty, atmospheric look in every frame....:-)<br /> <br /> * How that would work with a 14-24mm zoom is another question.</p>

<p>Undeniably, the D7000 is a better camera in nearly every way.</p> <p>The question is purely financial and what's to be done with the rest of the budget. There will be change from the $750 budget. Considering the OP is AF lens free, it's a question of lens requirements for what they want to shoot. That's a personal choice only they can decide.</p>

<p>Here in the UK, D7000's are going for about £370 or $600 and D90's about £200 or $320, so making the difference more useful for lens purchase.</p> <p>$750 - $600 is only $150 left........whereas $750 - $320 is $430.</p> <p>For most uses, the D7000 would be better, but <strong><em>only</em> </strong>if the glass you're looking through is up to it!</p> <p>However, if you can see a future budget as-well, buy the D7000 now and buy more glass on the next 'spend'.</p>

<p>+1 Richard M. The extra $$$ isn't worth it for the D7000. Go and get some glass with the change. </p>

<p>I know it's DX, so the mirror/shutter will be a little smaller, but they managed to get 7fps out of a single EnEl3e for the D300<strong>S</strong>.</p>

<p>Well, DxO doesn't support the D810 <strong><em>yet</em></strong>..............but it's only been available for about 10 days!</p> <p>It usually takes a couple of weeks to make all the correction modules once they've got their hands on a production model, not some prototype.</p> <p>Limit it to own-brand software...? Not even Nikon would be <strong><em>that</em></strong> stupid....:-)</p>