mike_halliwell

<p>You cannot correct for images shot under a discontinuous lightsource. If there is no red in the 'white' light, you cannot invent it later. The meat market has special LEDs to illuminate fresh red meat, 'cos it appears to us humans as grey under conventional white LEDs....(they are primarily Blue and Yellow/Amber)</p> <p>It's not like shooting daylight film under tungsten..ie correctable by an 80A etc. It's not a case of a MIR shift, it's pure colour inventing!!</p>

<p>C.P.M., the hopeless Nikon App, the Wireless Mobile Utility, is indeed Android based.</p> <p>However, if you read what I actually wrote, I said that I used another piece of free software called DSLR Dashboard. Go check it out yourself.... http://dslrdashboard.info/</p> <p>Otherwise my wireless use of my D5300 with the app mentioned above is a frequent recurring dream, that strangely, the results of which I can still find after I wake up. Amazing!</p>

<p>Both Sigma 30mm lens are definitely DX (or DC in Sigma terms), the 35mm 1.4 is FX.</p> <p>The 'new' 30mm is in the Art series and is amazingly sharp edge to edge from 2.8 onwards....it's OK wide open.</p> <p>The older version is sharp in the middle from wide open. The edges are really soft <strong><em>until</em></strong> 5.6!</p>

<p>Ellis, it looks like you're the man to know!</p>

<p>Now that's a good question I've asked many times and no-one has ever answered!</p> <p>That's the price I can see on the Amazon US page. If you add it to your basket and head towards check out...what happens?</p> <p>Amazon UK displays the final price. You have to be careful over here displaying ex VAT prices....you need to show a big disclaimer.<br> ___</p> <p>Andy, I'm not going to trust a site that thinks this lens is DX...twice!!</p> <blockquote> <p>http://www.dpreview.com/products/nikon/lenses/nikon_20mm_1p8g_ed/specifications</p> </blockquote>

<p>The other day I was trying to shoot fireworks, so I turned my 70-300mm VR focus selector to M.....</p> <p>Bizarrely it tried to focus when I touched the shutter button.</p> <p>I was deeply confused....:-(</p> <p>I switched the slider back and forth about 20 times and low and behold, it was fine. Gummy switch I guess?</p> <p>Use AF-ON on the back, if your camera's got it, or simply turn off AF.</p>

<p>£679 here...UK<br> $790 there US ...:-(</p> <p>By today's exchange rate @ 1 : 1.65, it should be £490 </p> <p>Would anyone in the US spend <strong>$1120</strong>?</p> <p>Ridiculous Nikon pricing!<br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong> </strong></p>

<p>Amazon.com (US) have only got 13 left, so that's why I asked!! </p> <p>http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-AF-S-NIKKOR-20mm-1-8G/dp/B00NI6WH1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411657138&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+20mm+1.8g</p>

<p>Might be worth making sure you've got a good lens hood for it.</p>

<p>I've been thinking about a fast, wide FX lens for astro shots and had been eyeing up the Sigma 20mm 1.8....but would like to see how the Nikon behaves.</p>

<p>It's a terrible myth that Nikon WiFi won't talk to Windows.</p> <p>I use my D5300 with the free software, DSLR Dashboard, for tethering regularly on a Windows XP netbook.... and it is far more accomplished than the pathetic Nikon App that basically lets you see LV and tap the screen to take the pic. No exposure adjustments are possible.</p> <p>Any transition period in tech is messy. Take the humble tripod socket. 1/4" BSW (British Standard Whitworth) or it's bigger brother for tripod Heads 3/8" BSW. You can't change either without making the other incompatible.</p> <p>To be honest, I like the physical accessibility of the hot shoe mounted flash controllers.</p> <p>PS. I like Shun's lateral use of the GPS signal to set the legal frequency for that area.</p>

<blockquote> <p>LED torch as a light source </p> </blockquote> <p>Interesting. As the LED torch is not a continuous spectrum light source, I'd be curious in the colour balance it gives. Maybe it's just adding +1 EV to the nice-coloured ambient daylight?</p> <p>They might look white, but they're very far from it! Shine one into a prism and look at all the colours missing. They have a pretty low CRI as a result.</p>

<p>The only real down-side with the D3 is no self-cleaning sensor....oh and not really enough pixels for cropping.</p> <p>I shoot horse events with a chap with a D3 and I've got my D700 + Grip. Both have the 70-200mm VRII. He gets loads of sensor crap, where-as I don't.</p> <p>Once you start trying to do high speed sports <strong><em>and</em></strong> portraiture, you're dealing with 2 different bodies. Maybe one primary and the other as back-up....and the order changes depending on the job. </p> <p>Kinda D4S for sports and D810 for portraiture & video. Both will do the others job at a pinch, but one is 'better' for the job in hand than the other.</p>

<blockquote> <p>A slide copying attachment on a 105 mm would wind up to of a long tube in front of the lens causing vignetting possibly.<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>If it causes vignetting, the tube's too long!<br> <br> I'd hope the optics of a Nikon Micro lens would be superior to an Ohnar duplicator.<br> <br> The 105mm VR Macro is 1:1 at min focus dist. which when I just checked on my D700 is 154mm from the front element. So a piece of black tube 2.1/2" diameter and 150mm long with a slide slot on the end-cap, like an ES-1.... and you're in business. It should 'glue' onto a 62mm filter ring blank, I used an old step-up ring to give more area for the adhesive to grip. I cut mine up a while ago to make a diffraction grating spectrometer thingy.<br> <br> Anything higher than 1:1 you need an extension tube between lens and camera body <strong><em>and</em></strong> a shorter black tube...!<br> <br> BTW, Depth of Field is kinda irelavent with a flat thing, but the lens peaks at f5.6, sharpness wise.</p>

<blockquote> <p>if you have a bunch of images with the wrong time stamp related to some sort of crime</p> </blockquote> <p>OK, So I shoot someone breaking into a bank with my camera timestamp set 1 hour slow... say 10.45</p> <p>Then I set the clock right and take some more pictures...of the getaway stamped 12.00...and being public spirited, hand the images to the Law, but don't tell them I changed the clock. So they think it took 1.1/4 hr to do the bank over rather than 15 mins...</p> <p>Sure their timeline is a bit off, but I'll be joining the bad guys in prison ASAP for assisting or perverting the course of justice!</p> <blockquote> <p>Sure, you should be allowed to, but <em><strong>I</strong></em> can't think why <strong><em>I</em></strong> would!</p> </blockquote> <p>......emphasis on <em><strong>I</strong></em>...:-)<strong><em><br /></em></strong><br> I'd have thought people trust a picture about as much as the law trusts a timestamp.<br /> <br /> Forensically, anyone know if you can you tell if EXIF has been edited rather than created?<br /> <br /> I wonder if there's an EXIF created time in there somewhere as-well as an image created time?..:-)<br /> <br /> ____________<br /> <br /> My better half has the alarmclock set 15 mins fast, so she can press the snooze button twice because she doesn't like getting up but still get up on time. In the meantime, I've got up, put the kettle on and made the coffee...<br /> <br /> ...oh, I understand now..-)</p> <p> </p>

<p>Bearing in mind you can always edit the timestamp on a picture in post, as the OP has done, I can't think of a reason to deliberately set the incorrect time at the moment of capture? </p> <p>Sure, you should be allowed to, but I can't think why I would!</p> <p>I occasionally resort to using the date-stamp to find a misfiled picture......sometimes this has failed when looking for other people's images when their camera has defaulted to 01.01.2001....:-(</p> <address> </address>

<p>Can <em><strong>any</strong></em> Nikon camera equipped with GPS be made to set the correct time automatically?</p> <p>My D5300 doesn't seem to think the 2 are connected!!</p>

<p>I like the added 'bulk'* of the D90 grip for my Nikon 70-200mm VRII and my Sigma 100-300mm f4.</p> <p>The D90 feels very front heavy otherwise.</p> <p>* I guess it's a depth of grip more than bulk <em>per s</em><em>e </em>that makes long or heavy lenses more comfortable.</p>

<p>More stamina (frames) especially with lots of Live View, and pop-up flash use, probably better balance with bigger lenses, but sadly no faster....:-(</p>

<p>I'm about to go and try a few experiments after observing that my D300 <em>seems</em> to crank out <strong>9</strong>fps when used with the mains power supply. The MB D10 + 8 x AA or EnEl4 option maxes out at 8 like it's supposed to.</p> <p>I don't know whether my D700 behaves the same way. I'll try that too.</p> <p>I'll go shoot my stopwatch for a bit...:-)</p>

<p>humm, 1/2 second per day does seem a bit much. Maybe you're just an unlucky pair and have got one that runs fast and the other slow WRT REAL time. 15 seconds each, but in different directions.<br /></p> <p>I guess in 30 seconds the cake <em>could</em> get un-cut or the register erased!</p> <p>Maybe it's related to how long one of the clocks has to run from the little internal battery as opposed to big battery when they're being charged?</p> <p>Perhaps it runs from the mobo/processor time code and not an accurate quartz mechanism and <em>is</em> power/voltage dependant?.....think 'Daisy Daisy in 2001'.*</p> <p>My D700 wonders 'off' by about that much, but it's getting tired now...:-)</p> <p>* I know it was memory banks, but you get the idea..:-)</p>

<p>Would very strong sales of the 7DMKII make Nikon more likely to make a D400?</p> <p>.......or to (miss)quote from that film, 'Do they just not give a (DX) damn'??</p>

<p>I suppose the marketing strategy is, as any business should be, about <em>where</em> and <em>how</em> you make your profit.</p> <p>I think Nikon have decided that although they sell lots of DX bodies and kit lenses, the profit is small and as they've made no expensive DX lenses, there's not much continued money coming in after the body or kit sale.</p> <p>However, FX is kinda like a cash-cow, they sell far fewer of them, but with a higher profit margin AND then continues to sell expensive glass and expensive accessories to those FX owners well after the body sale. The D750 is a very strong FX camera for a very good price. I may be tempted myself when the price drops a bit.</p> <p>Canon is going after the DX market, but equally doesn't so-far seem to be making much DX pro glass for those bodies either. Perhaps that will change? Maybe as they make their own sensors they make much more profit per body and don't need the glass money?</p> <p>Trouble is, those independent lens makers are making severe inroads into good FX (and DX for that matter) glass and they can do it more cheaply because they're designing for multiply lens mounts and thus higher sales.....and the speed it takes non-brand companies to clone an accessory takes sales away sooner.</p> <p>Sigma's option to physically change lens mount on their pro lenses will be ensuring that body loyalty is history. Lens cost was and still is the main reason not to change brand.</p> <p>OPTIONS?</p> <p>How about the guys from the Canon Forum and Nikon Forum have a swap meet? You can only exchange like for like, lens wise and no corporation makes <strong><em>any</em></strong> money from photographers swapping mounts....:-)</p> <p>...but with no money coming in means that they'll delay the D400 for another year....:-(</p>

<p>Makes you wonder why we can't have the 'Best-of-both-Worlds'?</p> <p>I'm curious what the bottleneck is for <em><strong>either</strong> </em>party? Nikon's Good* Pic, OK AF---Slow Speed. Canon's Poor* Pic, Good AF---Fast Speed?</p> <p>Oddly, the tech doesn't seem to be incompatable....it's not as if someones trying to put race-car tyres on a speed boat!</p> <p>*NB I'm using relative terms not absolute ones.</p>

<p>Excellent info...many thanks!</p> <p>How does that apply to the rather odd D700 info, where it seems to give 2 voltages and then 2 identical ampages? Does that mean 7.4/9v isn't a range, it's 2 discrete voltages?</p>