browncam
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Posts posted by browncam
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Thank You Steve. It worked perfectly.
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I am making slide shows with ProShow Gold. I would like to preview them in
full screen before I burn them to a disc. Is this possible?
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Don't just buy any card reader. Buy one from a reputable manufacturer like SanDisk. I had a SanDisk reader for Flash Memory cards but when I changed to Compact Flash cards I bought a reader from a site recommended on this Forum (Sterling Tek). It only cost 9.99,but it is a flimsy piece of junk. To be fair I bought a camera battery at the same time and you can't tell it from OE.
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Yakim has put you on to a good site. Check with Sigma before you buy the lens because,once they run out of parts to rechip a lens they do not make more. I bought a 400mm 5.6 intending to have it rechiped, but Sigma said they no longer have parts. It works fine at 5.6 but I can not shoot at smaller apertures.
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Thanks for the quick replies and all the suggestions. Using the mouse pad that came with the computer sure seems like an affordable solution. I?ll try it and some of the other alternatives suggested and get back to you.
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The Dell optical mouse that came with my computer is not very precise, when
I try to select objects. I see Microsoft Laser Wireless Mice in the store. Are
they any good?
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I'm not an expert either, but I think you need to adjust the white balance or the color temperature in post processing. I have never heard of a lens causing a color cast.
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I shoot butterflies with a 180 Sigma 3.5 with a 30D @ 400 iso. I don't think IS would be much help because I have to shoot at high speed to eliminate the movement of the insect not to mention the effect of the wind.
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I had a concern with a sigma 400mm lens that will not marry my digital camera except at 5.6. I had a great opportunity to shoot a great egret, but the picture was soft. In order to test the lens at all openings,I went back to a film body and shot an outdoor target using a solid tripod. I was using the timer to avoid mirror slap as well as vibration from pressing the shutter. I mistakenly turned the timer off for two shots and boy were they soft. I am going to invest in a cable release.
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Thank you Mark. That is a helpful site
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I just got my 30D and I have no flash that is compatible with it. I have a
283, but I understand that the voltage that it fires at could damage my
camera. How do I go about measuring the voltage?
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I normally use 160 portrait film, in 120 format, in the studio under controlled conditions . I use Fuji NPS and Kodak NC. The bowling pictures were my contribution to Big Brothers. Actually gave the Fuji prints and negs to BB. I will get them back and compare.
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Took the negatives to Skylab, in Windsor Ont. It took Sherry five minutes to make me a well balanced print. You guys were right on. Thanks
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Thanks for your help. I bought the Agfa at a lab, but got it printed elsewhere. Will see If seller can print it. Most Canadians know how to spell Fuji. I'm the exception.
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I shot some bowling group pictures in a dimly lit alley( F8, 2sec @
iso 160). I wanted to get some separation from the background, so I
dragged my shutter. I was using a Canon EOS and a Quantum T2. I set
the camera on manual and the flash on TTL. I shot a roll of Fugi iso
160 portrait film at f 6.7 @ 1/10 sec. I shot a second roll, this
time Agfa 160 portrait. The Fugi turned out fine. The Agfa turned
the white walls and ceilings to green. I realise Fluorescent light
has a green cast, but why did the Fugi turn out OK.
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Yes, you should have more flash power than the little strobe that is built into the camera, but get it as soon as you can, and get familiar with it. A wedding, is no time to be fooling around, with equipment that you are not familiar with. But, it's really not about the camera, or the flash. Good wedding photographers make good images, because they know how to pose people attractively, like standing at a 45 deg. angle to the camera, and putting their weight on their back foot. Get a few tips from a pro or buy a book, before the wedding.
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Thanks for your help. Since I could not get a new faster lens,I solved the problem by putting a remote flash, with a wide angle reflector on a stand. The flash was above the plexiglass, and aimed at the net. The angle was high enough to avoid the danger of temporarily blinding anyone that DW warned me about.
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I am shooting hockey through the plexiglas above the boards, I am
using an f4 zoom lens that needs 1/30 sec with 400 film,so I cannot
stop the action. Will the flash work through the glass or just
bounce back
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When shooting in the church at a wedding, I want to take advantage
of the ambient light as much as possible. When the bride is walking
down the isle towards me I am using asa 400 fllm with my lens opening
at f8. How slow can I set my shutter without picking up a ghost image.
The ambient light reads !/2 sec at f8
Photoshop 6 reading recommendations?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted