lightwriting by swapan

Bought a program for $ 49.50. Does not work. Freezes the computer. What do I do ?

Downloaded at least 3 different software, nothing works. Either freezes the camera or does not do anything. What is next ?

This card has never been used in any other camera. It took about 98 pictures without any problem and then......

 

The camera is fine (just downloaded pictures from the 2nd card taken AFTER the mishap.

 

Beau, I have a firewire card reader from Lexar too, one that I use all the time. I never use the camera to connect to PC .

 

You may be right about the reason. But surprisingly, older 1GB cards, used much more times and erased compared to this one are still fine. the 2 GB one is only about 4 months old !

 

Anyway I am going to try the recovery software. thank God, the camera is Okay.

 

Thanks to both of you.

While shootning, I noticed that the writing light on the back of my

Canon 1 Ds was on constantly, even though I was not taking pictures.

The camera showed "Error 99". I switched off the camera but the LCD

said "busy" and stayed that way. After about 5 minutes I removed

the battery, hoping to fix the problem. Reinserted the battery, the

error message went away only to come back after next shutter

release. Removed the card, inserted another one, which seems to be

working.

 

Now, I can not retrieve those images from the card which showed the

error message. It freezes the computer. I have images there which I

need to download.

 

What happened ? Is there anything I can do ? Please advise.

 

BTW, it is a Lexar 2GB with WA (80 X) . Did anybody have same

problem ?

 

Thanks

John,

 

Thank you for your simple and straight answer. Let me have a look at this.

Thanks everybody, I have to read each and every post a couple of more times to make a decision.

 

Here is what I thought-because I dont want to overshoot my budget which I always do and at the same time I want quality glasses(e.g. i love Canon L lenses), I will give up

a) Auto foucus ( I can focus manually and I wont be at a hurry for landscape/Portrait)

b) Eye level pentaprism(waist level VF will be ok)

c) In camera metering option(I have a Sekonic L 608 and I think it will do me good for this camera-at least I will have a chance to use it !)

 

 

Now, are there more options ? To get a down to earth MF box with excellent lens ?

 

I understands that one lens wont serve both the purpose and hence I am willing to buy a second lens later. I like primes. So, suggest me the best combination of a body and lens(either for portrait or landscape), used, within $ 1000(+/- couple of hundred bucks)

 

BTW, what is "nornal" for a 6X6 MF ? 90 mm ?

 

Thanks everybody

Friends,

 

Excuse me for this stupid thread but I need suggestions.

 

I am a 35 mm Canon shooter. Lately, I have thought of getting a

medium format camera, just for the excellent quality of bigger

images. I started my photography with P and S medium format(AGFA

click III/Isoly II, if you are old enough to know what I am talking

about) and used a Yashica 124 G TLR (I still have it but is rusted).

 

I will use that camera for Landscape and portrait only. Nothing

much, nothing less.

 

I would like to buy one MF camera body(SLR) one lens that will give

me acceptable pictures on both my shooting choices . A zoom ?

 

I would like to have auto focus but is not necessary.

 

I do not want waist level viewfinder.

Eye level pentaprism is ny choice.

 

I have a host of 77 mm filters and I intend to use them (with

adapters, if needed).

 

I need some quality, not something which is trash ! I plan to shoot

negatives with it as my 35 mm is basically for slide and digital.

 

This is more for fun. My budget is around $ 1000 but is flexible.

 

Now, could you guys come up with sone suggestions ? I know I cant

get new ones with this budget and hence, used is OK but I want to

buy it from a reputable seller and preferably, not from eBay !

 

Thank you for your suggestions

Thanks Joe.

 

For everybody who cares, on the 3rd day of my setting up a bird feeder, a sparrow visited it. I am hopeful things will improve!

Julian,

 

Man, you are tough !

 

When I said "THEY", I really did not mean the guys at Canon or Nikon talking in technical terms, physical and optical properties of glasses etc. I really meant the way it is explained to a lay person like me (e.g. with IS on, the sharpness will be the same handheld with a 3 stop higher aperture or slower shutter speed, etc.

 

No, I did not make it up. For one momentI panicked when I read your response thinking, Lord, if I cant find the source, he will definitely think I am a big bluff ! But, my memory helped me and here is the article I read

 

http://www.poelking.com/wbuch2/DO-400/enew400.htm

 

Please go down reading and you will find what I meant. BTW, I really did not believe it ( 10 stops is way too much )

 

Thanks a lot

Well we may not be able to "define" stops of sharpness but this is the way I "understood" it ...

 

Everything else remaining constant, the sharpness of a picture will be the same when shot at e.g 1/4 sec with MLU and when shot at 1/4000 with no MLU (that is 10 stops of sharpness-the way I understood it).

 

Dont they express the effectiveness if IS the same way (by stops ?)

 

What I dont understnd is why IS and MLU are not cumulative ? In a situation where I have wind shaking my camera and I have a long exposure (e.g 1/15) on a long tele, will both not be useful to eliminate vibrations from multiple sources ? Why it need to be mutually exclusive ?

 

Thanks to all for your replies. I am learning.

Mark,

 

I pretty much agree with you. that is why I did express my surprise that MLU itself can provide so much improvement. May be the author meant that the improvement is same as shooting say, e.g. 1/8 sec. vs 1/8000. Obviously it is not applicalbe to long shutter speeds like more than a sec. But just like you, I also seriously doubt that the MLU can provide 10 stops of difference in shaking affecting the piccture !

 

Thanks Scott, for your tests. What I meant by "sharper" is that as MLU eliminates vibration of mirror slap, pictures are automatically sharper(expressed in stops) but as I said above , I really doubt it will make that much difference !

 

thanks everybody

Thanks Steve,

 

I think it pretty much says YES, the IS is switched off in above circumstance.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

What I meant by 10 stops of sharpness is that under an identical condition, MLU will give the same sharpness in a shutter speed which is 10 stops slower compared to non engaged MLU.

 

Bob, there is only one question -whether the MLU in 1V shuts off the 3rd generation IS on a tripod or not. Which part of it is meaningless ?

I read somewhere that if you engage the mirror lock up(MLU) in 1V

and you have your IS lens (3rd generation)on a tripod, camera

automatically switches off the IS function and even then, the MLU

only gives you an incredible 10 stops(!) of sharpness.

 

Is this true or a myth ? Anyone ?

Scott, those pictures are awesome ! I am impressed. It inspired me too.

 

Glen, thank you for your suggestions. I will try to make it as safe as possible for the birds.

It is so wonderful to see people responding ! What a place to learn!!

 

Bob, I am in the outskirt of Atlanta, GA. A small city named Canton.

 

Christopher, I wiil be using a EX 550, a better beamer flash extender with my lenses.

 

As the distance is adjustable,(where I set it up) what is the best focal length to use? I mean the rule of thumb ?

 

Douglas Stemke, can I set up my camera on the 2nd floor to have the grass as the backgroud or it will mess up the perspective ?

 

Greenberg, thank you for your advise,I will remember (and implement )them

 

Joseph I will have the water drip

 

Scott, wonderful ideas, I am going to follow them

 

Edward, the book will be ordered tonight.

 

Thanks a million to you all guys.

I would like to set up some bird feeders in my backyard to take

pictures of the birds(in addition to feedeng them). Please give me

some advise where to start, what to buy, how to set them up, etc,

etc. I have absolutely no previous experience with this kind of

photography. Are there sites that I can access ?

 

Youe help is highly appreciated.

 

Thanks

It is your filter, which is not "ND",is known for the color shift , is probably complicated by the "IR" factor as others have mentioned.

 

You may try a Singh-Ray variable ND (1-10 stops). To my knowledge, they are really "ND".

 

hope this helps

Peter,

 

Your e-mail does not work, how do I contact you for making my calendars ?

 

If you read this, please reply to Dholai@hotmail.com

I am an ameteur and yes, I do have insurance for all my camera gears, including filters. This is not cheap and I dont know how effective they are as so far, I have not claimed anything(knock on wood) !

I am planning to make some 2005 calendars with the pictures taken by

me. Those 12 pages calendars with one 8 X 10 photo for each month.

This is strictly for fun, to be distributed to my friends and

families(who are totally oblivious to my photographic genius). I

need about 10-12 pieces.

 

I shoot both slide and digital. I prefer to use my slides but if it

is cost prohibitive, I may use my digital images.

 

Can someone tell me who can provide me the service ? Photo-labs ?

Anybody who have a first hand experience is requested to help me

with info, please.

 

Thanks in advance

Thanks everybody for your time and effort to help me educate.

 

I am going to read all your answers a couple of more times and then will post any further question/comments if I am still unclear.

 

Thanks again

...and YES, I have read the excellent photonotes.org article, I have

even downloaded and printed it for multiple reading.

 

Let me present a scenario please..

 

Camera (1v) is in manual mode, f11, 1/30 sec. Shows 5 stops

underexposure to medium tone. I switch on the flash at full power,

indicator says subject is within range. I shoot, get a totally

underexposed result.

I thought camera told the flash how much light it needed to give a

proper exposure for that setting. Is that true ? then why

underexposure ? Is it because it was out of the range of the poor

flash unit even at its full power to provide enough light ? that

seems logical. Am I right ?

 

Next, in AV mode...

 

I have the subject covering 95% of the frame and there is not much

of background. the exposure says 1.6 seconds on f11.

If I read correctly, the camera goes to evaluative metering and

meters the background and provide fill flash to the foreground

subject(depending on EV or becomes the main light source-which will

be here) to balance the exposure. But if the subject and the

foregrounds are in same light, and

I switch on the flash and meter again why doesn't the exposure

change, it still remains the same 1.6 seconds. What is the flash

doing here ? Will it not give extra exposure with the light ?

remenber, basically no background on this shot, my subject covers

the frame!

Why does the exposure not change when I am providing additional

lihgt fron the flash (which is going to be the main light here?)

 

Now I move to "P" mode. Now the camera, for the same frame, sets 3.5

and 1/60, which is not equivalent to f11 and 1.6 seconds which I got

in AV mode!

 

I am sure I am missing things here. Can somebody please explain or

direct me to some more reading, please ?

 

thanks in advance

When you start seeing black clots on a picture of clear sky shot at f22 and opened in PS. Check every week, you will be surprised ! My observation is based on 1 Ds though and I dont know whether D20 is better in that regard !

 

Thanks

I cant find any info on that. I guess they don't have it. What is

the reason ? Is it not sensible to have the standard lens in "L"

version ? Or, is the standard 50 mm 1.4 as good as (or very close)

to the other "L" version lenses around the same focal length ?

 

Just curious