Minoxit

<p>This Adox does no scratch. Not easily, that is. However, I do not use anymore a "drag-through" cutter; as Martin said, these are creating telegraph lines on the negative like nothing else :-)/</p> <p>The rotary blades film cutter (see its first public review on my website here:<a href="/bboard/%20https:/minoxit.com/2014/01/19/jimmy-li-a-newcomer-with-a-serious-challenge/"> https://minoxit.com/2014/01/19/jimmy-li-a-newcomer-with-a-serious-challenge/</a> ) is much better suited for cutting 9.2m out of 35mmfilm negative. The way the film goes through the mechanism is not exposing the emulsion or upside of the film to any surface, so scratches are only created by bad handling of the negative strip while rolling into the cassette, in the vast majority of situations this occurs. I would advise towards investing in a proper machine; it will nicely pay in the long run. And while you're at it, check various other Minox information in there.</p> <p>Re chemicals: my 2 cents was just that, 2 cents worth of an opinion. I sometimes had troubles with matching a certain film negative with its own developer, no matter what the manufacturer said. Adox (for me) is an example. What anyone should do is experiment, experiment, take a rest, and experiment some more. Take notes, go small steps, keep remembering things. Think outside of the proverbial box.</p> <p>And above all, shoot as much as you can. For a certain time in my Minox early days, quantity made up for quality. After a while, it slows down. Not much, but it does. And things are starting the other way round. Not much, but it does :-)))))))).</p> <p>Best of luck to you!</p>

<p>I usually set the camera (or meter) at an ASA ranging from 10 to 25. Very smooth tones when shoot inside these figures. If developed properly, it looks somehow to APX 25 (smooth) or to Pan F50 (very good highlights). Good contrast and shadows. Be prepared to <em>work a lot</em> when scanning the negative, tones quite stubborn.</p> <p>Processing wise, I have tried Atomal 49, ID 11, D76, almost all devs I have. None did the job to my liking, so I gave old Studional a shot. The results were very good. From memory: Studional, 1+15 @ 7 minutes, agitation every minute for 10 secs, thermometer pumping.</p> <p>No scans to show for the 20 ASA, but you have here some examples of the CHS 50. A bit different, but it's the closest to show at this time.<br> <strong> </strong><br> <a href="https://minoxit.com/2014/02/26/adox-chs-50-in-studional/"><strong>ADOX CHS 50</strong></a></p> <p>Hope this helps.</p><div></div>

<p>I sold mine in 2001. Big, big, huge mistake that was. Now, prices have gone up like thrice from the amount I have bought it back in the 90's.<br> Good and serious submini camera, no toy!</p> <p><img src="http://www.minox.freeservers.com/images/new_mikroma_ii.jpg" alt="" /><br> Image taken from my very first Minox website, http//:www.minox.freeservers.com, not active anymore (still online though :-).</p>

<p>And my first good close up with Minox.</p> <p><img src="http://minox.freeservers.com/images/closeup.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>One of my first home processed C41 photographs, Fuji Color, in Minox tank.</p> <p><img src="http://minox.freeservers.com/images/din_turnul_normand.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Minox B, beginning of the 90's, and film cut with a crude slitter of my own devise.</p> <p>Ektar 25 and APX 25 were widely available in shops. Yes, those were the good days :-))).</p><div></div>

<p>Local classifieds of last Sunday gave me the opportunity to acquire a Minox BL. The person selling it had no general interest in cameras, or in Minox in particular, for that matter. All he wanted was € 50,00.</p> <p>Read the rest of the story here: <strong><a href="https://minoxit.com/2016/02/24/minox-bl-e-5000/">LINK</a></strong></p>

<p>Sorted, then?</p>

<p>Those were the days...</p>

<p>It could be very well be Delta 100, seeing this film is a popular choice when it comes to repackaging 35mm emulsions as 8x11 format.</p> <p>Then again, why not asking them directly?</p>

<p>Martin, thank you!</p>

<p>Latest Minox photographs are posted as "Minox wall 6" on <strong><a href="http://www.minoxit.com">www.minoxit.com</a></strong>. Enjoy!<br> <a href="http://minoxit.com/2016/01/18/minox-travels-2016-1/"><strong>GALLERY</strong></a><br> <strong> </strong></p> <div></div>

<p>Riga is 80 mm × 27 mm x 16 mm</p> <p>A/IIIs is 82 mm x 28mm x 16 mm</p> <p>I believe the case will accommodate the extra 2mm for the IIIs. I have one of Luigi's cases made for Riga (the one with the top zipper) and it is a snug fit for IIIs.</p>

<p>Looking good. I believe I am going to purchase a couple for my A's.</p> <p><a href="http://leicatime.com/a000-MINOX.htm">LINK</a></p><div></div>

<p>A new <a href="http://minoxit.com/2016/01/16/not-unlike-minox/">article</a> from Minoxit. I do hope you'll enjoy it.</p>

<p>The last micro SD card bought from Ebay was a fake. The advertised size was 128 Gb, but in reality, only 4 Gb. Refund was available (Paypal protection).</p> <p>Ask the seller to provide you with the serial number, before purchase. And buy from trusted sellers.</p> <p>Anyways, if you get a memory chip which you suspect it may be fake, check the card with this small piece of software here:</p> <p><strong><a href="https://www.raymond.cc/blog/test-and-detect-fake-or-counterfeit-usb-flash-drives-bought-from-ebay-with-h2testw/">FAKEFLASH TEST</a></strong></p> <p>FYI, this verification is approved and recognized by Ebay, so you can make your money back claim and prove your sayings by providing Ebay with the screens of your software check results.</p> <p>So, caveat...</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks, Martin.</p>

<p>So, assuming one can translate these voltage differences into seconds, what could be the stop values ? Obviously, a rough estimate.</p> <p>I have taken out my user LX and fiddled a bit with the speeds, comparing these to a Minox C equivalent speeds, both cameras film sensitivity set ay 100 ASA. <strong>I was amazed to see that the LX (set on A) is almost 2 stops behind the same setting on C !!!</strong> What the...?</p> <p>I have checked all the speeds of LX in comparison to the C ones; the LX speeds are some 2 stops behind the C camera. Both cameras have the same battery pack (PX27 adapter) inside: 4 x LR43.</p> <p>That LX just came back from Don...assuming Don did a great job as usual (and knowing that he'll be double checking the camera before posting it back to me, which I know he always does), ca't see what the heck is wrong with this camera. Unless the adapter and its 6V is playing havoc with the circuitry...</p> <p>I am going to get some LX out of their boxes and some C's as well, and run some tests this w/end. Will be posting the results.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/minoxromania/">LINK</a></p> <div></div>

<p>http://minoxit.com/category/my-classic-cameras/minox-iii-no-sync/</p> <p>Happy New Year !</p>

<p>What resolution for the photos to be printed all right?</p>

<p>My latest Minox 8x11 photographs. I hope you'll enjoy my last gallery for 2015.</p> <p>See you all next year!<br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong><a href="http://minoxit.com/2015/12/26/minox-wall-5/">LINK</a></strong></p><div></div>

<p>Oh, and I have found the photo I wanted to post, in response to your Hungarian parliament pictures. It's a Minox IIIs shot, I believe the film was Rollei ATP 1.1, developed in Rollei's own.</p><div></div>

<p>You haven't seen some of mine, Martin :-)))).</p> <p>My scanner is a Plustek also (grandad Plustek 7200); it's the previous model to yours. Good machine, no dust removal though...SilverFast software was in its childhood at the time, I guess.<br> <br />Badly damaged negatives due to dust particles (and to ever so annoying fixer crystals as well !) are a nightmare, so any Minoxer would give an arm and a leg (well, not quite) to have a tool for freeing the negatives of the pox.</p> <p>I have been using this tool <a href="https://ni.neatvideo.com/">here</a>, for a number of years now. Very good, but the learning curve is a bit steep, due to some complexity of the tool. You need to experiment, because this piece of software is very tricky: it does get rid of the spots, but...it also can smooth your frame in a ferocious manner.</p> <p>The answer is to check and experiment every step, until you get the gist of it. All in all, I do really like it.</p>

<p>...and a happy New Year !</p> <div></div>