fwstutterheim

<blockquote> <p>I have this lens and off the camera, the aperture actuator is fully to one side and cannot go any farther as it held in place by spring tension. The blades are wide open and can only close down with aperture setting + moving the aperture actuator.</p> </blockquote> <p>Same with my ML 1.7/50 mm.</p>

<p>The Rolleiflex SL66 was the only MF camera with a built-in tilt function AFAIK.</p>

<p>In general Rolleiflex and Rolleicord cameras have the same build quality. They differ in features only. The exception is the Rolleiflex T. In some points it has a lower build quality than the others. A belt to drive settings where the others have gears for instance. The belt is the weak point. When it is torn it makes the camera useless. Minus point for the T.<br> Go for the camera in the best condition. The T looks ugly especially when it comes to the lens panel. Impact on the lens panel can cause a serious problem: the lenses may not be parallel to the film plane. It may be my pessimistic nature but when something looks ugly it usually is. Another minus point for the T.<br> I would opt for the MX-EVS without hesitation. <br> Ferdi.</p>

<p>Assuming you live in the U.K. a suitable address would be:<br> <strong>Mr. Brian Mickleboro</strong>,<br /> 6 Fairway <br /> Bishop's Stortford <br /> Herts, CM23 5LT <br />Phone 01279 755862<br> Mr. Mickleboro is factory trained and has 30-40 years of experience in servicing Rollei cameras.</p>

<p>Roosh,</p> <p>The correct procedure for pulling and pushing in the lens barrel is described <a href="http://www.rolleigraphy.photo/rolleigraphy.php#R35">here</a>. Perhaps you are already familiar with the procedure but I mention it just in case. There is the chance that something has got stuck or there may be damage. When selecting a repair shop choose one with experience with these tiny and complex cameras. Suggestions can be found at the site.</p> <p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Well, I am not a Hassy man. The cameras are too complicated for me. (grin) When analysing your problem it looks like the shutter only works after manual cocking. The shutter does not release after using the crank. That would suggest the crank action does not pull far enough to fully wind the shutter and let it catch. The spring will release right away. When you cock manually you do wind far enough to let the shutter catch. Then it stays cocked and the shutter can be released normally. It would mean your camera is out of spec and needs an adjustment.</p>

<p>At one point I had to purchase a new card reader. The one I had was 'too old' for the modern SD cards I use.</p>

<p>We are talking of 1 mm off either side. I was thinking of grinding rather than cutting. Glass firms or framing firms will have tools to do this. You could try it yourself with Silicon Carbide paper. Fix a strip on a workbench or piece of wood and move the edge of the ground glass over it. The choice of the right kind of abrasive material could be tricky, so having it done by a professional looks a better solution. It would not hurt talking to one of them and see what they can do.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I took my first shots on the X-E2 in standard, but have now turned to the Velvia setting.</p> </blockquote> <p>Settings like Velvia are for the JPG's only. They do not influence 'raw'. You wrote you were shooting in 'raw'.</p> <p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Yes, thank you for taking the trouble to compose this list. I would like to remark that I do not like the set up of the page itself: a huge list inside a small scrolling window inside a scrolling page. I gave up scrolling after 2 minutes. Could you look into this? Thanks again,<br> Ferdi.</p>

<p>Wim,</p> <p>The plate adaptor was meant for either glass plates or sheet film. (The author of one of my books smartly remarks that colour photography is not possible using glass plates, so in that case there is no alternative to moving to film!)</p> <p>The cassettes are spring loaded to bring the plate or film into the film plane of the camera. Obviously glass plates are thicker than film. Therefore a sheet film insert was provided only to be used with sheet film to make sure the cassette works properly. I suppose the extra things are the sheet film inserts.</p> <p>Checking my adaptor kit I noticed that the sheet film inserts are missing so I cannot positively identify them.</p> <p>Best regards,<br> Ferdi.</p>

<p>Robert,<br> You could give it a try yourself:</p> <p>http://www.stereoscopy.com/cameras/re-stitching.html </p> <p>Ferdi.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I own a Gossen Variosix. A fine meter, but it has no main ON/OFF switch. ..... In a soft pouch in my bag the battery usually is empty when I need the meter.</p> </blockquote> <p>Eventually I sold the Variosix F to a friend who could live with the battery issue. After a number of years he told me he had found the exact nature of the battery drain. It is in the soft pouch itself! The pouch has a flap that is held closed by Velcro strips. On the inside of the flap are a few tiny compartments to store cones. When the flap is closed (too tight) one of the cones is pressing a button. This will switch the display ON and the constant pressure will keep it ON, resulting in rapid drain of the battery. The solution is to leave that compartment empty. After this battery life was excellent.</p> <p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Hello Shu Du,<br /> When you have removed the lens:</p> <p>1. Does the stop down button on the camera work now? On my SL66 (not SE) it is a spring loaded sliding switch that can be pushed down. When down it can swing a little bit so that it can be locked under a chrome pin. When it works properly you can see a small lever moving in the bayonet mount.</p> <p>2. Can you stop the lens itself down manually? On Esko P.'s photo you can see a chrome part next to the red dot. When the lens is mounted the chrome part is caught by the lever. I can move the chrome thing sideways with my finger and it stops down the aperture. Does that work?</p> <p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Avi, have you found this thread:</p> <p><a href="/digital-darkroom-forum/00cMq9">http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00cMq9</a></p>

<blockquote> <p>I just purchased an older Firewire 400 only card (2 6 pins and 1 4 pin) to test out....worth a shot I guess.</p> </blockquote> <p>It should be "OHCI Compliant" whatever that means.<br> Ferdi.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I am also going to try the Mac experiment with my friend's Macbook pro laptop tomorrow. His however only has a 9 pin port. </p> </blockquote> <p>Obviously you will need a Firewire 800 (9 pin) to Firewire 400 (6 pin) cable but it should work. I use an additional Thunderbolt to Firewire 800 cable to connect a Nikon 9000 ED to a modern MacBook Pro. Application is Vuescan.<br> Ferdi.</p>

<p>Status LED on Nikon 9000 ED (I guess it is similar on 8000):<br> ON - No operation in progress. Film holders can be inserted or removed.<br> BLINKS (about 1.5 x /s) Scanner busy. Do not turn scanner off or insert or remove film holders.<br> FLICKERS (about 5 x /s) Hardware or communications error. Turn scanner off, wait for at least 5 s, and turn scanner on again.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"it flashes continuously for a minute or so and then its solid green."</p> </blockquote> <p>That is normal and means it is powered up and O.K.</p>

<p>If all this fails try a Mac. I always have the impression the Nikon scanners work best with a Mac. I have an old G4 Power PC, and old MacBook and now a new MacBook Pro. The Nikon 9000 ED works like a charm with all these computers. The newer ones need Vuescan. For the MacBook Pro (OSX 10.10) I need two adaptor cables: one from Thunderbolt -> Fireware 800 and a second one from Firewire 800 -> Firewire 400. No problems whatsoever.</p> <p>Good luck,<br> Ferdi.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/view/?iar6oztje34owme">PX625 adaptor</a></p>

<p>Tom,<br /> I have not seen an easy way to adjust the focusing screen in my 6008i. The screen is not fixed using shims. It is exchangeable by the user. The screen swings up in a frame. When in lowered position the screen rests under a metal strip. This is what I can see. I am not a technician and not in the habit of taking my cameras apart, so this as far as I can go.<br /> The screen is marked TOP and OBEN. That makes it not very likely that is mounted up side down. Both words cannot be seen when the screen is mounted in the camera. The words are covered by the frame. The way to check would be swinging the frame up and looking at the screen from de "downside". <br /> First open the finder hood. Push two buttons on the left and right side and slide the hood away toward the lens. On the screen frame you will see 4 chrome dots. Two on either side. Two of them, one on either side, are higher than the other two. The high ones unlock the frame. Push both of them toward the film magazine to move the whole screen back. Use your nails. At the same time pull up the frame. The screen has to clear the metal strip. The "hinges" are on the film magazine side, so the lens side of the frame can be pulled up. Be careful to touch only the sides of the screen. The matte side, that should be down, is extremely delicate. <br /> Ferdi.</p>

<p>Have you checked with <a href="http://www.paramountcords.com/">Paramount Cords</a> ?</p>

<p>I am not really active on this forum but have been a loyal follower of the Found Film posts. I hope to see them again.</p> <p>For my website I use the Text Editor of my Mac. I started with page building software but it was more trouble than useful. I never got what I wanted. The Text Editor gives my total control but the downside is I have to write all html-code myself. It works well for a mainly text based site with images. The start was rather slow and difficult because I was "muddling through" but once I had developed a basic page style it was just copy, paste and add some text and images. <a href="http://www.w3schools.com">www.w3schools.com</a> was very useful. Site maintenance is an issue and I am finding ways to lighten that burden. That has got me deeper and deeper into html, Javascript and now PHP.</p> <p>I do use a notebook but add a calibrated Eizo screen for photo work. </p> <p>I big "thank you" to Mr. Gene M. for your efforts and success with the site.<br> Ferdi.</p>

<p>This is a reliable repair shop in France. Just in case ...<br> <a href="http://www.ateliergms.com/obturateurscentraux/obturateurscentraux.html">http://www.ateliergms.com/obturateurscentraux/obturateurscentraux.html</a> </p>