ghuczek

The best bargains on bodies are the ELM/ELX cameras, if the extra weight is not an issue. I see them selling at the auction place for under 300 US. Otherwise, the 500CM is a workhorse. See my recent post on my experiences with a 500CM.

Terrence -- I ponder the irony that my Deardorff was made over 70 years ago and I still continue to use it.

The external viewfinder is not as well corrected for distortion as the lens is. Level the bubble, shot a few rolls, and evaluate the results. The viewfinder gives you a rough idea of the field of view of the lens, but the distortion is noticeable. The effect you are noticing is typical of wide-angle external viewfinders on rangefinder cameras.

 

Other than that, just make sure the viewfinder is seated properly in the mount.

I bought my first Hasselblad, a 500 CM with an 80mm lens back in 1979,

after long and careful deliberation. It is still working! I wonder how

many people will be able to say the same thing 27 years from now with

digital cameras. Here is a photo from the first roll I took. It was

shot on Kodak 6041 (Verichrome Pan). Before I had a darkroom, I had

the film lab processed. The photo was shot on a tripod with a yellow

filter.

 

I still use that same camera and lens. The camera has paid for itself

many times over. No regrets about ever having moved up to medium

format from 35mm.

 

The photo was shot about this time of year at the Kortwright

Conservation Area in Southern Ontario.<div></div>

"I don't have a tripod with me ever "

 

Perhaps you might want to reconsider. You might loose sponteneity with a tripod, but you gain a tremendous amount in terms of image quality.

It is not a gimmick. The way a lens configures the out-of-focus image areas can be quite different from one lens to another. Some lenses gives a smoother, softer look ... it's hard to describe, but quite easy to see in a side-by-side comparison of two images of the same subject taken with different lenses.

Andrew, the dark slide is not redundant. You need to insert it into the magazine to reload film.

Jordon has it "spot on" so to speak. Use *distilled water* and you will not get water marks at all. The water marks are caused by the minerals in tap water that remain behind when the water evaporates.

Nice shot Eric.

 

Photoshop 7 embeds data which PhotoNet doesn't like. Is there a work-around without having to use "Save for Web"?

For the V system you can get focusing screens with grid lines. Hasselblad made several of these. Currently there is an Acute Matte D 203 with a split-image rangefinder for the 205FCC\TCC cameras, and one with an etched ring to show metering patterns for the 202/203FE's. You might also find some older ones on auction sites that were introduced before the Acute matte screens came out. You need to use one that works properly for the type of prism/finder you have. (Older non-acute matte screens let less light through.)

 

The grid screens are expensive but worth getting if you plan to do a lot of work that requires careful veritcal/horizontal line placement.

 

You can also use an extra-fine permanent maker (comes off with alcohol) and draw on a few black lines where you need them on the smooth side of a salvaged focusing screen. It will not cut back enough on the amount of light that gets through to affect metering with a prism. No flames here! It is not as elegant, but it works nearly as well, and will save you a lot of money. It is also great for special jobs where a certain pattern has to be placed carefully in the frame.

What you see through the viewfinder is what you will get on film. If you are using a metered prism, it will calculate exposure compensation correctly for the extension tube. If you have a hand-held meter you will have to increase the exposure given by the meter based on your magnification. You can do this by using tables or formulas.

I have had a few of the lens shutters get sticky in severe weather (In Canada, severe cold weather starts at -30C). You shouldn't need special lubricants for your conditions.

1/125 is getting hard to keep the image sharp with this lens handheld.

 

If you want to find out how sharp the lens really is, use it on a tripod with a cable release and prerelease the mirror. It takes some time to get used how to hold the camera steady.

Did you use a tripod? What kind of focusing screen and finder are on the camera? Do you wear glasses?

 

You should get good sharpness with that lens.

You have to register the program first. In the trial version, several of the features are disabled. If you try to follow the manual with the trial version, it gets very confusing because of this. The RAW file format will show up in the Output tab when you register. Other features which are disabled (like those you probably now see greyed outin the menubar) will also become enabled once the program has been registered.

The question was about Vuescan, not Silverfast ;)

 

Go to the Output tab, set Options to Advanced, then select the Raw File checkbox. The raw file gives you the raw CCD data. You can batch scanning RAW files, then do the image editing later, either in VueScan or an image editor.

What do you currently use?

Are there English translations of this available anywhere?

 

http://www.leicapassion.com/

I think a used Hasselblad is a great way to get into medium format now. You can pick up good equipment at reasonably low prices, compared to what these would have cost new or used just a few years ago. If you want a solid, reliable system, go for the Hasselblad. The prices on them are great now, and the equipment is capable of delivering outstanding results. Prices are hard to quote here because often the lenses, backs, bodies, screens, and finders are all sold separately, but you could likely put together a good basic kit with a used 500 CM and an 80mm lens for less than 900US.

I have the manual for the Mamiya 7. It doesn't go into too much detail on this.

So I take it then that AE Lock is most useful when shooting handheld?

When you set the shutter speed dial on AEL and press the shutter

halfway to set the exposure information, is there any way to hold that

information after you let go of the shutter release, or do you have to

try to recompose with the shutter release partially depressed. I need

some tips on how to go about using AEL, readjusting the camera on a

ball head, putting the polarizer back over the lens, etc. especially

when trying to use a cable release.

There's a Wisner 16x20 available this week on the auction site. Unfortunately, it will only ship to North America.

I recock with a copper penny. It fits the slot and doesn't scratch.

Remove the lens and extension tube from the camera in the opposite order. First remove the lens, then remove the extension tube from the body.