ghuczek

The Hasselblad quick release would not be suitable for your 4x5. It attaches to the rail on the Hasselblad's baseplate.

The Hasselblad quick release would not be suitable for your 4x5. It attaches to the rail on the Hasdselblad's baseplate.

I have an extension tube 10 that I use with the 150 Sonnar to get tight head & shoulder portraits. The 180mm lens accomplishes roughly the same thing without the extension tube. The extension tube was discontinued at about the same time as the release of the 180. Likely as well, the 10mm extension wasn't a very popular item.

So anytime someone says that a Hasselblad isn't a suitable travel camera, here is a website that you can show them to disprove it!

Well, dah! I just figured this out. I had the thumbnail window closed slightly, so only 5 of the 6 frames were showing up.

 

The hardware is functioning better than the operator.

Corretion here. The negative that appears black as a thumbnail also scans as a blank, black frame. Something is not right with this.

Which of the tripod mounts for an Arca B1 head works better on the

Mamiya 7, allowing access to the shutter curtain for quick film changing?

Chromes are transparencies.

I am having some unusual behaviour with the scanner. It has never

happened before. When I insert a 5 negative strip with the first frame

closest to the hinged side in the negative holder, the first thumbnail

scan is blank. With the film inserted one frame back, so the last

frame is at the unhinged side, the 5 thumbnails scam properly. Either

way the scanner scans all five frames correctly, even if the first

thumbnail scan is black.

 

Does anyone know why the first thumbnail scans as black when te 5

frames are loaded in with the first frame closest to the hinged side

of the negative holder?

"After knowing Hasselblad had ceased production of most of its V system ..."

 

Is this speculation, or has most of the V system officially ceased production?

You are going in the wrong direction, in my opinion. I went just the opposite way. I started using Ilfosol-S about 15 years ago. Used it for three years and then swithed. The problem I was having with it was I was not getting enough image sharpness with 35mm films. The way fine grain developers work is by re-dissolving small amounts of siver halides and redepositing them elsewhere. This robs the film of acutance, which in turn gives less perceived image sharpness in enlargements. Stay with D-76 1:1 for the films you mentioned.

Edward said it bang on. Try using a 400 speed film. That way you may be able to shoot at 1/250s instead of 1/60s. Don't expect sharp photos handheld at 1/60s with a Hasselblad, especially if you are not prereleasing. Then again, if you prerelease, your have to guess at your image composition.

 

I have some handheld shots taken at 1/250s with a 150 Sonnar that are quite sharp.

It looks like agitation may be the culprit. Your development appears to be non-uniform on the film.

You see many threads like this on Leica forums, where people wonder whether black, titanium, black paint, silver, platinum, or snake skin looks best on their Leicas. Give it a rest. Go take beautiful photos. Cameras are nothing more than tools, not jewellery to boost your egos.

Pick up some plastic thermal lined coloured children's lunch kits from W*llmart or some department store. The thermal lining will keep film from getting too hot. Use freezer cold packs inside for very hot conditions. Will also supress humidity to _some_ extent, but not for long. You can get these lunch kits in several colours to keep film organized. Some are water repellant. This would be an inexpensive system to store and transport film. These lunch bags can be put into a larger carry-on bag for airport hand inspection, if so allowed. The lunch bags can also be laid side-by-side inside tupperw*re containers. Cheap like borsch. I've used a similar system, though on less demanding projects.

I just bought a used SWC/903. It looked clean and in good shape, but

the lens was jammed. I've had a few jammed lenses before, but nothing

quite like this. I looked up "unjamming Hassleblad lenses" in a

Google search and found a few sites that showed how to do this with a

flathead screwdriver. I tried to find the turny-thing with the

screwdriver from the back like the instructions said. The lens seems

to be really badly jammed, but I managed to twist it hard enough in a

vise grip so thjat now it at least wiggles around a bit. When I shake

the camera, I can hear metal things bouncing around inside.

 

I think the back lens element might also have a big chip in it now.

The screwdriver slipped. I'll have to use some flat black stove paint

to touch up the shiny marks from where the edge of the screwdriver

dug into the metal. Should I cover the lens with masking tape when I

do this? Can I do a touch up job on the back lens element by filling

it in until it's smooth with a bit of crazy glue? I'm really worried

about trying this in case my finger gets stuck to the lens.

 

;)

 

- GH