pnance

Love the viewfinder. I have a F3, tossed the crappy HP finder for a DE-2, closer to the original F viewfinder. I have always worn glasses but enjoy the larger image, even if I have to look around to see the image, over the tiny little viewfinders on almost all cameras make since. Still use my F, its also great with the Voigtlander Heliar 12mm wide angle, although its more like a rangefinder then.

The TEA is an alkali. If you don't want to change your chemistry, use propylene glycol.

After reading several of the pages, I believe that warship is a translation of superstructure. ie, the top of the camera.

Sorry about the quotes on the previous url: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34163-ez-rodinal.html

I think you should check out "http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34163-ez-rodinal.html"

this rodinal formula works. No complicated directions, it is easy to mix. (It actually uses less chemicals than the formula you cite, the HCL version of p-aminophenol needs more alkali) You use it exactly like Rodinal from the bottle. I've used several batches now and have been satisfied with the results. Thanks Pat Gainer.

Nikon's 105's have always been among the sharpest lenses they have made.

Don't forget its not just the color of the light, but also the amount of it. Most saftlights use very small bulbs. 7 or 15 watt. The amount of light from outside would be fairly excessive.

Brian, did you think he possibly had a wrinkled sensor? :)

Yes, there are three ways to improve your pictures.

 

1. Improve your photography skills. 2. Further improve your photography skills. 3. Polish your photography skills. (Changing gear offers the least improvement.)

Opps, turns brown in time, would be white at first. Sorry.

Note that if you're comparing a AIS to an AF type lens. They are radically different. AIS lens have a machined metal helix, with a lubricant, AF is very free for ease of the motor to focus. Unless the AIS is hard to turn, it may be OK.

Brown spots, or worse. The white spots are from the water. Do you use a wetting agent (like Photo-flo)?

If you really want to mix your own Rodinal like developer. Try this one: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34163-ez-rodinal.html

 

It really works, I use this and the negatives are great, just treat it as if it were Rodinal and it will be fine.

Do not use potassium sulfite, it will not disolve! (CRC says it will easily disolve, but in my experience it will not, even if you use a electric stirrer and let it run for days!)

This lens is made for manual focus cameras such as the FM2.

 

I find it strange that a reviewer would knock a product because it was what it claimed to be! Rockwell didn't like this manual focus lens because it doesn't autofocus! Ridiculous. It he wished for an intelligent comment he could have mentioned it didn't have a CPU (as the 45mm P does) to allow use on more bodies.

 

It's also strange to prefer the short focus arc of a AF lens when used for manual focusing, as he states in his article.

 

He did seem to correctly notice that metal weights more than plastic.

The Nikon 10mm is a fish-eye design.

 

The Nikon 12-24mm is not a fish-eye. It is a normal (rectilinear) wide-angle zoom lens, it is not designed to show distortion.

A regular wide angle lens attempts to show a wide view of the area you're looking at without distortion.

 

A "fish-eye" wide angle lens will show the area with possible distortion. For example straight lines parallel to the edge of the frame will curve. But a straight line running from the edge to the center of the frame would not show distortion.

 

All lens have some distortion. Wide angle lens are more likely to show distortion, and "fish-eye" lenses are designed to have a certain built-in distortion.

The difference between an f/2 and f/2.8 is a full stop. A half stop above f/2 is f/2.4

If you haven't used a SLR and especially a DSLR, you must be very careful changing lens. Getting dust into the camera body is very bad. DSLRs must be turned off before changing the lens (to remove charge from sensor).

I develop Tri-X (rated at 200) in straight Microdol-X at 68 degrees for 10 minutes. Great negatives. I replenish the Microdol.

One could try carefully cleaning the contacts.

The problem is actually a FAT32 problem. Cards that at formatted FAT32 can't be read, if reformatted they will be smaller than their rated sizes. For instance a 4 GB card would format as a 2 GB card, and very hard to reformat back. The FAT32 standard was created to address the larger sizes available, it is needed for sizes larger than 2 GB.

Not an AR-1

Strangly enough, I've got a red one from somewhere!

Have you tried formatting the card in the camera?