pnance

The split image focus screen does a better job in those cases where the electronic doesn't work. Plain ground glass is ok in large format, but you can't beat split image for focus in a 35.

If you want to mix your own Rodinal, try http://www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34163-ez-rodinal.html

this recipe is easier to use than most. I find it is liquid enough that using a small graduate, 10ml or 25ml, easier to use and clean up, I save my syringe for HC-110.

You say it happens when you add the sodium carbonate, is the sodium carbonate a known good batch? I use Leslie's Soda Ash for sodium carbonate, but know my supply is good from the mixes I've done. Are you using distilled water?

There are graduated neutral density filters available (Cokin, for one) that will allow you to give less exposure to the sky than the dark canyon is receiving. They are great for lots of landscape scenarios.

I guess it just shows, if you want to take a good picture with a Canon, you have to use Nikon glass!

A whole lot of people think Tri-X is rated EI 200.

 

That's how I rate it all the time.

Most people cannot smell the "vapors." The only odor in most darkrooms is fixer, particularly ammonium thiosulfate in rapid fixer, it smells, but its not that bad. (Some say it smells like creativity!)

 

Good luck, and have fun.

I wonder about your agitation. Most specs call for 2 inversions lasting 5 seconds per 30 seconds. To turn the tank over and back in 2-1/2 seconds is a gentle movement, not a violent one. The only violent (!) type movement I use is at the start when knocking against something to shake away possible air bels. The rest of the development cycle is gentle agitation.

I use SS tanks, and often with 36 or longer hand loads, I have to wrap the rest of the film around the reel, because it doesn't all fit, I have never have any film damage due to this.

I've been using glassine sleeves for over 40 years with no problems, long before the plastic sleeves became available almost everyone used them.

There was an adapter made, however it has an extra lens to correct for infinity focus. They are occasionally found on the e-auction site.

Again, the lens has no bearing on the frames per second speed, if the exposure will allow the frame rate. A 15mm on the other hand is more like a 22-23mm full frame lens, while fish-eye effect will be noticed, you will probably not get 180 degrees. Try the Nikon 10mm fish-eye for digital cameras, it will.

You just wash a lot longer.

There don't appear to be many in the 100mm range.

I surprised that more aren't recommending the 105mm f/4 macro [AI/AIS], possibly one of the sharpest micros made.

You quote that it is sensitive to blue and green light, well, the sky is blue.

 

Great images.

You didn't mention the 1.8, the sharpest of the three 50's. The difference between the 1.4 and the 1.8 is a lot less than the difference between the 1.4 and the 1.2. This makes the 1.4 the winner, as its almost a full stop faster than the 1.8, and only 1/2 slower than the 1.2. Fully within the margins of B&W film exposure.

 

Of course, if you want big glass, nothing looks like the 1.2.

 

All of these lens work best with the correct lens shade to reduce flare.

Cary, think about it, your camera is more likely to work (better track record).

The F2 metering systems on the other hand can use currently available batteries. (of course the F is my favorite, but I've had it longer)

Hope you didn't leave batteries in the camera. :)

Back in the day, the 105mm f/4 was only $69.50, inexpensive even compared to off an brand lens. I recall that Lentar lenses (28mm f/2.8, 135mm f/2.8; the Nikons were f/3.5) for the F were about $30. The 105mm f/2.5 was $175. Plain prisms were 44.50

I agree, just re-wash and use Photo-flo and dry.

 

I too use Photo-flo (or something like it) but also use a squeege to get the excess moisture off the film. (I know squeeges can scratch film, which is why I am paranoid about getting squeeges that don't scratch, I currently use a Paterson, have used others, and find that most could be used to clean pans) I have also used the technique of washing the film and then hanging, and then spritzing down with distilled water. Both work well, but I keep going back to the Photo-flo type stuff.

Have you tried carefully cleaning all the plastic around the battery contacts, including areas around the contacts between the MB-10 and the body, to insure no current leakage paths exist?

When I built a pin-hole camera, I used photo mounting corners on a piece of cardboard to hold the film flat, it will be extremely curly. But it works, have fun.

If you always mark the position of the film when its being loaded (sharpe or magic marker)at the sprocket, and make sure the wind lever is always in the same position, you will get reliable indexing of the frame position. Mark on the leader the number of frames to past.