tropdude

thanks!

pls let's stick w the orig question and not discuss price, deals, etc. told that is not a factor and i am not looking for deals.

i need a new d3s or x ftom an auth. nikon dealer w nikon warranty.

did my homework on us websites but at the end those are gray products or not authorized dealers.

so question remain of getting one in hk airport or finding one in the us. need it for a trip to have it as a 3rd body for a

dedicated use.

any suggestion would be appreciated.

<p>Fortress website lists D3s and D3x.<br>

<a href="http://www.fortress.com.hk">www.fortress.com.hk</a><br>

There are Fortress stores in Terminal 1 and 2 at HKG.<br>

How reliable is this store, how likely that they have on the terminal the body or that they would get one for me if I pay (maybe in advance)?</p>

<p>Thanks for the comments!<br>

Ideally, I am looking for an option within the airport.<br>

If I have to go to Mong Kok, what store(s) should I aim for? It will be around 19-21 h (7-9 pm)?<br>

Any way to arrange with a reputable store to deliver the body to the airport?</p>

<p>No Nikon D3x or D3s bodies available in the US, other than the gray market imports.<br>

Any option to purchase either of these bodies at Hong Kong HKG airport while on a 3 h 30 min layover?<br>

Price, tax, etc. is not a factor as long as I get a brand new item warranted by Nikon.<br>

Many thanks!<br>

 </p>

<p>Anyone expert could tell me how to produce <strong>Fuji Velvia 50 quality</strong> images with the Nikon D3?<br>

Either or both, using the D3 body settings and/or post-production, whatever gives the best result?<br>

I am interested to hear <strong>exact specs, steps, programs to run</strong>, etc., would appretiate your answer in this regard.<br>

Thanks a lot!</p>

What are the best insurance options if you travel with 30 grand worth of photo and video gear, worldwide coverage?

Need to cover all situations, for example:

- airline looses or damages Pelican 1600 case with gear inside (too much gear to carry on-board).

- theft/robbery in third-world countires.

- and anything else that may be a risk in such travels.

Thanks.

What are the pros and cons of using wireless vs. wired? What are the situations where wireless would not work

correctly or would be impossible?

Does the SC-29 cord has any disadvantage over the SC-28 (is there a situation where the SC-29 AF assist would

interfere with the shooting)?

Thanks for the responses!

Anybody knows what sort of plastic (type or specs or brand, cat #) is ideal to make my own diffuser, eg, one that

does not change the color balance, etc?

What are the best diffuser options (price is not an issue, functionality is)?

Using 1 or multiple SD-800 with 60mm, 105mm, and 200mm 1:1 macro lenses for nature closeups (approx. 15 cm

to 150 cm typical lens-to-subject distance).

One criteria is portability (eg, fit into a large Tamrac shoulder bag already full with euipment).

Thanks a lot.

What Nikon cords, connectors, adapters, etc. I need to be able to use the following configurations in BOTH ways,

WIRED and WIRELESS connection:

camera-----sb-800-----macroflash-----sb-800 (or other orders of connecting all three off-camera)

camera/sb-800-----macoflash-----sb-800

camera/sb-800-----macoflash

camera-----sb-800-----macroflash

camera/sb-800-----sb-800

cmaera-----sb-800-----sb-800

camera-----sb-800

(macroflash = R1 = 2xSB-R200 speedlight)

(camera/sb-800 = on-camera flash)

Thanks a lot!

Gents:

My question is aimed if the high-end video, film cameras ($5K-15K) in their original factory packaging + BandH-style shipping padding/boxing could be expected to be damaged by the general fedex/UPS deliveries while having no apparent abuse signs on the box itself?

Could mail ordering process itself (eg, FedEx/UPS, local delivery guy tossing,

kicking, dropping packages as a [not bad-intentioned, but] usual conduct of

business) damage sensitive, high-value photo/video equipment? Anybody had any

experience?

Thank you.

So if my additional aim is to make an identical backup of all images in the highest quality in the body itself, then I use:

NEF (RAW) 14-bit

Slot 2 Option: Backup

Is this correct? Not taking an external hard drive to the field, but just having twice the needed CF cards would be great!

What are the pros/cons of using NEF (RAW)+JPEG vs. NEF (RAW) in the above two-card-backup configuration?

Nikon D3, FX format:

Which image quality settings [NEF (RAW Uncompressed 14-bit) @ 24.7

MB/image OR TIFF (RGB) @ 35.9 MB/image] gives the best quality image?

Storage place, file size is NOT IMPORTANT, quality is.

Any resources, reports detailing the real-life malfunction chances for high-end

CompactFlash Cards?

Have to buy several pieces of high-end Nikon and Canon gear and for the time

being, I am stuck in Chicago.

How Calumet (Chicago) store compares to B and H in terms of purchasing

expensive gear (in person walk-in, not mail order) ? Have been dealing with B and

H for 17 years, with near-full satisfaction, but know nothing about Calumet. No

price differences in the items.

Thanks a lot!

I appreciate the answers!

RE Q# 1, how many images I can expect?

RE Q# 4, what wires/adapters/inverteres needed to use a car charger socket (truly in a car or as a solar panel outlet) to charge the MH-21 or MH-22?

(Congo and Namibia [separate trips] but I am looking for a system that works ANYWHERE, w/o electricity.)

1. EN-EL4a -- How many images per fully charged battery pack I can expect in

average nature photography conditions in the tropics, taking the highest quality

TIFF images, using plenty of AF, multiple flashes, and reviewing the images on the

monitor (that is, without any restrictions in operations)?

2. Any option, adapter, trick to run the D3 on conventional AA batteries?

3. Any pros or cons taking the MH-22 vs. the MH-21 in the backpack to remote

locations -- weight and volume is a factor but so does the ability to charge

batteries without getting up in the night and switching them.

4. Any experience/wire specs running the MH-22 or the MH-21 from a solar panel

linked to a car cigarette lighter-type plug output?

5. Any other trick, suggestion to run the D3 in full operation or keep charging the

batteries for a period of month (6,000 expected images) without electricity?

6. Would it make sense, to simply take ~6 fully charged batteries and then problem

solved?

Money is not a factor, weight and space is, I am looking for the best options.

Thanks a lot!

In aperture-priority or manual exposure modes, with the CP filter on the lens, can I trust the built-in light meter (F4-F6 bodies) for correct exposure or I have to manually adjust/override the camera's suggested value?

Above "read-first" posters: would be great to suggest authorative readings. I am on the road, no book access, but have internet connection for 12 more hours or so.

Thanks.

Thanks a lot!

(I am doing my reading, but the forum is invented for questions like this.)

Can you please some experienced give me a "crash-course" on using a circular

polarizer filter on Nikon 17-35 and 80-200 with Velvia 50.

Praticaly never used a circular polarizer before and I am heading off with it

toward beaches, high mountains, and deserts to shoot some landscapes. I hate

to take unfamiliar equipment with me, but this is life. Will not see the

slides until I am back.

I normally have an L37c (neutral UV filter) and a hood on the lenses.

Some questions to start with:

In what situations (weather, composition, lighting, subject colors, etc.) is

it the most useful?

What exposure/other adjustments I should make (mostly A priority or manual

shooting)?

Is this a what-you-see-what-you-get thing or I have to assume a different

result from what I see in the viewfinder?

Any warnings, downsides, drawbacks using this filter?

Any other thing on the to-do or NOT to-do list?

Thanks! Happy holidays to all!

What is the next best 35mm slide film to the original Fuji Velvia RVP 50? The

RVP50 is not sold at this time and may not be sold again ever.

I tried some of the "replacement" Fuji Velvia 100s, but got nothing just

disappointment.

Re a post above,

SD800 is 7 MP

SD900 is 10 MP

...appears as a huge difference in the pixel numbers in favor of SD900, despite of the SD800's IS.

Opinion to the contrary?

Thanks.

Leica's downsides seems to be: no underwater housing, lens-cap has to be detached and attached every time, flash has to be popped-up manually. Everything else, including the manual controls are looking great and most of it do not find in the Canon.

More takes...?

Thanks.

Some specific questions are:

Leica vs. Canon lens quality and its significance at P&S images.

RAW vs. JPG images as file output.

Leica seems to have true manual exposure 9eg aperture -priority) control which is a BIG plus vs. Canon's.

...any specific comments on these or else?

Happy holidays!