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tropdude

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Posts posted by tropdude

  1. <p>Further questions:</p>

    <p>5000ED's max scan resolution is 4,000 <strong>dpi</strong>. Setting the SilverFast to 6,000 or 8,000 dpi would provide an extrapolation. But would this extrapolation be better than you would get in Photoshop or practically is the same?</p>

    <p>What should be the <strong>Q-Factor</strong> and <strong>lpcm</strong> setting?</p>

    <p>Under the <strong>Options</strong>, does anything appears incorrect? (Densitometer radius, Interpolation, Profiules for ICM: Gray, etc.)</p>

  2. <p>SilverFast Experts:</p>

    <p>I am looking for the exact specifications that allows batch scanning thousands of 35 mm slides using:<br />Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED<br />Nikon SF-210 feeder<br /><strong>SilverFast (NikonM).8ba (vers 6.6.2r5)</strong><br /> <br /> It is important that SilverFast is set to provide the <strong>maximum image quality</strong> (pixel size, depth..., etc.) one can obtain from the original slide, yet does not require manual adjusting for each individual slides. I do not want to have any pre-processing (dust/scratch removal, color adjustment, etc.), but just the raw data in maximum possible quality. Storage space, length of scan are not a factor.</p>

    <p>To start to decide what are the best parameters for the above goal, here are the initial specifications (enclosed in the image):</p>

    <p>What settings on the enclosed screenshot are incorrect?<br /><br /> On the vertical-icon menu panel what should be disabled and enabled (and if enabled, use what settings)? (For example, multi-exposure or multi-scan [of a s ingle slide] can be adjusted. Do yuo expect better image quality, and if yes from which one and how many multi-scan.)</p>

    <p>Thanks!</p>

    <p><img src="http://s26.postimg.org/yq34dknh5/SF_2.jpg" alt="" width="1279" height="1028" /></p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED + Nikon SF-210 feeder.<br />Slides in landscape position.<br />SilverFast.<br>

    The actual 24x36mm image on the slide does not get scanned in full. Approximately, 1-2 mm-wide area is missing (cropped out) along one of the shorter edge, and there is a corresponding 1-2 mm area area along on the opposite edge that is black. It appears that the slide does not advance "all the way is should" so the scanner misses the edge of it or there is a misalignment between the 5000 ED and SF-210 or else...?<br>

    Any suggestion re a fix?</p>

  4. <p>What are the downsides (purchase price is not a factor) of using 128 GB CF cards in travel photography vs. smaller ones or not filling up the 128 GB to capacity? (Applicable situations: remote, minimal-gear backpacking, no electricity, not much time for late-night backups, etc. in remote parts of the world.)</p>

    <p>Shooting couple thousands of images without the need of changing cards or download to an external hard drive is a definite plus.</p>

    <p>The downside is that you have 4,000 precious images from the last two weeks on one single card that is also in use in the camera. (In the old days, we had 120 rolls of Velvia in a Pelican...)</p>

    <p>Any thoughts, brainstorming, experience on this subject?</p>

  5. <p>Is there <strong>ANY</strong> actual performance difference between the two types of CF cards below when using with Nikon D3s/D3x bodies (at max. resolution and with all functions, including continuous shooting, video, etc.)?<br>

    <strong>64GB CompactFlash Memory Card Extreme Pro 600x UDMA</strong><br />http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/646880-REG/SanDisk_SDCFXP_064G_A91_64GB_Extreme_Pro_CompactFlash.html<br>

    <strong>64GB CompactFlash Memory Card Extreme 400x UDMA</strong><br />http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843240-REG/SanDisk_SDCFX_064G_A61_64GB_CompactFlash_Memory_Card.html<br>

    An other questions: is the Extreme Pro more reliable, durable, better made than the Extreme? Or the difference is just in the data transfer rate?<br>

    Thank you!</p>

  6. <p>Any way I can program the Nikon D3/s/x bodies to provide a file-name structure for every image I take as:<br>

    <strong> </strong><br>

    <strong>YYYYMMDD_HHMMSS_[image sequnce number]</strong>.nef <br>

    <strong>YYYYMMDD_HHMMSS_[image sequnce number]</strong>.jpg </p>

    <p>The YYYYMMDD and HHMMSS would be the timestamp of the image creation: date and time of the day.<br>

    [image sequnce number] is the simple 4-digit (or whatever) consecutive number for each image.</p>

  7. <p>Responses appreciated, thank you.<br>

    More specs:<br />The setup need to be as light-weight as reasonable possible but still usable for what is intended for.<br />The folded tripod with head attached must fit into a Pelican 1600 case diagonally.<br />SB can be off-camera, of course, I was quoting the "heaviest' possible scenario, not the typical; however, I need the solution for heaviest possible scenario.<br>

    Deos anyone know if the Acratech GV2 Ballhead/Gimbal Head seamlessly will attach to the Gitzo GT0531 Mountaineer 6X Carbon Fiber Tripod Legs (ie, the base palte diamter is an exact/close match, the screw is an exact match, etc.)?</p>

  8. <p>To rock-solidly support, in any position (vertical, horizontal, upward/downward), a Nikon <strong>D3/s/x</strong> body with a <strong>70-200/2.8</strong> lens and an <strong>SB-910</strong> - would the setup below be the most appropriate choice for a traveler? if not, then what else you would use? The Arca-Swiss bottom seems to be a must as others will let the camera to pivot/twist.</p>

    <p><strong>Kirk BL-D3 Compact L-Bracket for Nikon D3 Series Camera Body</strong><br>

    Mfr# BL-D3<br>

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554716-REG/Kirk_BL_D3_BL_D3_Compact_L_Bracket_for.html</p>

    <p><strong>Acratech GV2 Ballhead/Gimbal Head</strong><br>

    Mfr# 1152<br>

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/599678-REG/Acratech_1152_GV2_Ballhead_Gimbal_Head.html</p>

    <p><strong>Gitzo GT0531 Mountaineer 6X Carbon Fiber Tripod Legs</strong> - Supports 11 lbs (5kg)<br>

    Mfr# GT0531<br>

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/569082-REG/Gitzo_GT0531_GT0531_Mountaineer_6X_Carbon.html</p>

  9. <p>I often use small cameras in handheld (ie camera back is against my palm), and my hand is lowered along my body to get shots of peoples' interactions (markets, shops, border crossings, etc.), sort of less noticed, and different angle. While most of these shots are a hit-or-miss, I am worrying if accidental touching the LCD would screw up the settings, focus, etc. even more.</p>
  10. <p>Need to hold Nikon D3/x/s body with large lenses, on-camera flash STEADY.</p>

    <p>I am looking for pro or best-available quick release plates or whole heads, compatible with Manfrotto AND/OR Gitzo heads or tripods, that <strong>DOES NOT LET</strong> the camera body twist around the screw when used in vertical or other non-standard attitude.</p>

    <p>I am NOT interested in large L-frames and the like, but a plate/head that maybe has a rim or the like to prevent any camera body rotation <strong><em>relative</em> </strong>to the quick release plate.</p>

    <p>Price not a factor, portability is, need the best solution.</p>

    <p>This <strong><em>maybe</em></strong> a solution, although I am not sure if it goes with Gizto/Manfrotto or if there are no better alternatives: http://www.kirkphoto.com/Camera_Plate_for_Nikon_D3s.html#</p>

    <p>Thank you.</p>

    <p> </p>

  11. guys, you missing the point.

     

    i am happy to paypal 10 dollars whoever points me first to a usa store that is an auth nikon usa dealer and has the d3s or

    d3x in stock w nikon usa warranty and ready to ship monday w o/n delivery.

     

    my only other option is hkg which i am calling at 0900 local.

     

    amazon, google shopping, etc. often does not reflect actual availability, warranty, or auth dealership -- i called several of

    those already.

     

     

    best!

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