steve_barrett
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Posts posted by steve_barrett
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Noctilux with ND filter.<div>
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Sorry, I'm new to adding images...<div></div>
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It's not really out of focus!<div></div>
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Noctilux Portrait<div></div>
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Noctilux portrait<div></div>
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Portraits w/ Noctilux<div></div>
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I don't know if it's any less likely to jam, but my 501c is 11 years newer than the 500c/m with which I had a similar problem as yours does. What I know for sure is that it was a pain to return it twice! KEH was good at resolving the problem, but it took nearly 2 months. If my experince is typical, I wouldn't ask them to repair it. Request they give you a different body.
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I bought a late black 500c/m serial # RC1306947 from KEH last December. It had a problem similar to what you've described. I was able to get it to work again by 'recocking' it. You can turn the slotted key inside at the front of the mirror box carefully using a screwdriver, or an available special tool intended just for this purpose. The 500c/m I had would work fine for a while, then jam again. I returned it to KEH twice for repair and finally got a 501c instead. I hope you didn't get the same 500c/m...
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Nice photo, Michael.
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Does anyone have experience using the Pentax M2.8/100mm lens? I'm
thinking of getting one and would like to hear some opinions about it.
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I recently got a Pentax MX that came with an MX Winder. The Winder is
missing its battery compartment cover. It's the piece you remove to
replace the batteries and has electrical contacts on the inside.
Would anyone know of a source where I might be able to obtain a
replacement? Thanks!
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I use the NC-2 with my 500C/M. It works fine. It shows a little less than what appears on film. They're so cheap, just buy one to try and see how you like it. I got mine for around $50.00 at KEH in Bargain condition.
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Great! Thanks for sharing.
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Eric,
Thanks for the info on the other thread regarding Acute Matte screens. The D screens do have two notches on the frame. I assume, but don't know 100% for sure, all D screens have those two notches.
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Is the Acute Matte D screen a major improvement compared to the 'regular' Acute Matte screen? What are the differences?
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It's been reported on this forum that the front portion of the 4th version 35mm Summicron-M is held in place by glue instead of screws. Removing the lens from a body by twisting the lens hood can cause the glue to 'break' and allow the front part of the lens to turn. I had this happen to an early production sample of this lens I once owned. I understand that this problem was addressed by Leica when manufacturing was moved from Canada to Germany. Has anyone experienced this issue with a German made 4th version 35mm Summicron-M?
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Does anyone know if the 40.5 Vented Hood marked 'S&W' is compatable
with the Minolta CLE 40mm 2.0 lens? This hood is often offered on
eBay. I searched photo.net without luck although I think this
question has been discussed here before.
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I think the production date for both lenses was around 1969
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I have a late (36xxx) version 4 35 Summicron. I bought it new. Its shade was Made in Germany, just like the lens. The German shade is identical to the Canadian version. Like someone else who wrote before, I usually use the 12585 shade rather than the standard square shade.
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You could ask them to 'adjust' the price downward. They might do it...
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I've used an M6 Classic 0.85 that had its finder 'upgraded' to the MP type and also the 75/135 framelines were removed. The lower right side of both the 35mm and 50mm framelines had a tendency to disappear. I was able to compare this M6 to another one that had not been modified. The framelines never disappeared on that one. Perhaps your MP needs to be adjusted?
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keh.com has an excellent condition Leica M6 Classic 0.85 at a good price on their website right now.
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I have 2 M6 0.85 Classics #242xxx. No problems with one I purchased new in 1998. Frame-line selector stopped working on the other, which was used when I bought it.
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Mike,
That's a beautiful photo.
color bokeh with Noctilux
in Leica and Rangefinders
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