steve_barrett

<p>I've seen a couple of 120CB's for sale at 2 well-known photo stores in the USA recently. That's what inspired my interest. The price being asked in excellent condition is $600-650. That is a good price compared to the typical price of a used 120 CFi/CFE. One for sale at Adorama, that includes its box, has remained unsold for several months.</p>

 

<p>The Zeiss produced manual I saw is online...not sure about the date of its publication.<br /> <br /> It listed these codes for front elements:<br /> <br /> 120 CFi 107 836 0001 010<br />120 CB 107 836 0001 000<br /> <br />Obviously, I have a case of idle curiosity about this lens. As Mr. de Bakker has written in the past, very little is known about the 120mm CB.<br /> <br /> If I needed a 120mm lens, I might well buy a 120 CB just to satisfy my curiosity : )</p>

<p>Zeiss manuals indicate the front element of the 120mm CB is different that the 120mm CFI and CFE versions. The 120mm CB front element has a different code than the one for the CFi and CFE.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>"... 60mm CB's and CFE's are mechanically very different even so they are optically identical"<br /> <br /> First I've heard about that...and also about the insurance issue you raised. Interesting, indeed...<br /> <br /> Maybe you can tell something about the mysterious Zeiss 120mm CB Makro for Hasselblad. I've been trying to get information on that lens without much success....</p>

<p>You might just be the fellow who knows all about it.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>"two technicians gave me similar answers"<br /> <br /> Perhaps you should have asked a third technician...like David Odess.<br /> <br /> His website doesn't indicate that he charges a different rate for CFE or Cfi lenses. He CLA'd my 60mm CB lens recently and charged the same as for a CF lens. The 60mm CB is essentially the same as a 60mm CFi.</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the suggestions. I will try those.</p>

<p>I didn't mention that I tried "brute force" before...and cracked the glass in the 77mm filter on the 85. Now my lens has a metal filter ring...the NC filter minus its glass : )</p>

<p> </p>

<p>When they were new, I attached Nikon NC filters to my Nikon 35 1.4 AFS and 85mm 1.4 AFS lenses. Now, the filters seem fused to the lens threads. They won't budge. I am sure I didn't use excessive force when I attached the filters a couple of years ago. I tried using plastic filter wrenches to remove the filters but they are too firmly stuck to the lenses.</p>

<p>Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Maybe designing these expensive lenses with plastic filter threads wasn't one of Nikon's best ideas...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The front lens replacement for 120 CFi is Zeiss # 107 836 0001 010<br>

For 120 CB it's # 107 836 0001 000...so there is at least one difference between the two versions.<br>

My point of asking is that I'm am considering buying one but wonder if there's a difference in performance CFi vs CB.<br>

It's definitely a mystery lens! I have read the previous posts from the past by Mr. de Bakker and others about this lens.<br>

I'd sure like to hear an opinion from someone who owns one.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Has anyone ever used a 120mm CB lens for Hasselblad? There is almost no information about this lens. According to servicing information published by Zeiss, the front element of the 120mm CB is different from the 120mm CFi.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>"Being lighter is an advantage? Have we forgotten that the working part of a good tripod is its mass?"<br>

<br>

Maybe I ought to have written that a difference is that the Gitzo weighs less than my Tiltall...which might not be an advantage.<br>

One thing is certain, Leitz made Tiltall's were well made tripods. I bought mine new in 1975 or so, and it still works great!<br>

<br>

<br>

<br>

</p>

<p><br /> <br /> <br /> </p>

<p>The main advantage of the Gitzo is that it's much lighter in weight than a Tiltall. You can find info about Tiltall tripods here:<br>

http://tiltallsupport.blogspot.com/p/tiltall-replacement-parts.html</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a Hasselblad 501C/M and 60mm and 80 lenses. I use a Gitzo GT 2531 with Arca Swiss ball head and Really Right Stuff QC plate.<br>

Sometimes, I use a Leitz Tiltall from the 1970s...those are high quality aluminum tripods often available at bargain prices on the auction site.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I returned it to KEH and asked for a replacement.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I ordered this lens from KEH. I was surprised to learn that the item KEH shows in its '360 degree view' is a 'stock' photo and not the actual item. The one I thought I was buying had a late serial number that started with '79'...the one they sent was much older, serial number 68....<br>

I'm not saying they are being deceptive, but I don't see the point of having the 360 degree feature unless it's the specific item being offered. When I asked KEH about this, the response was that they have too many items to show an actual image.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I recently got a Hasselblad 60mm CF lens and noticed the shallow black plastic petal shaped 'baffle' around the rear element feels 'gummy' or sticky. When touched, it leaves a black residue on my finger. The lens was made in 1986. This has made me curious about the long-term durability of plastic components used in CF series lenses. Has anyone had a similar experience with CF lenses? I plan to return this lens for a refund.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Perhaps a used Leitz Tiltall 4206? Those are very solid and sturdy, although a bit heavy...about 7 pounds.<br>

You can read Tiltall info here:<br>

http://tiltallsupport.blogspot.com/p/tiltall-replacement-parts.html</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses. I returned the lens for a refund.</p>

<p>It squeaks loudly and becomes hard to turn at some positions beyond the focus stops. Definitely not normal.<br>

I decided to return it for a refund and buy a new one. Getting a 5 year warranty is probably worth a few hundred additional dollars.</p>

 

<p>He said he wanted to buy a D800 instead of keeping the 14-24mm. As someone who sold my D800 2 weeks after buying it, what he told me is plausible.<br>

There are many reports online of 14-24mm lenses with frozen or stiff zoom rings. One photo equipment rental house made a big issue about this. Its owner thought it happened as a result of rough handling during shipping. Maybe the focus ring on mine was damaged in transit to me.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I just bought it from an individual. He has offered to give me a full refund, a partial refund that would reduce the selling price to about $1400.00 or return it to him and he will send to Nikon for repair under warranty, then return it to me.<br>

I know the third option is the 'correct' one, but ignoring the problem and getting a one month old 14-24mm lens for a good price is very tempting.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Joe...my concern is that the squeak foreshadows something worse happening in the future : )<br>

The plastic or metal is simply curiosity...mainly because reviews when it first came out said it was metal. It IS a great lens, no matter metal or plastic!</p>

<p>I have a nearly new Nikon 14-24mm lens. The focus ring squeaks when it's manually turned past the maximum or minimum distance stops. It doesn't squeak when auto focused or manually focused within the normal focus range...only when turned past the stops. Anyone have a similar experience?<br>

Also, the lens barrel appears to be made of plastic like my 85mm and 35mm 1.4 AF-S lenses. The reviews of this lens usually say it's made of metal. Has Nikon 'cheapened' the construction quality of this lens recently? Or was the barrel plastic all along?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for your response..by the time I attached the photo, the issue had 'resolved' itself so I deleted it!</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies. <br>

I am using iPhoto.</p>