charles_stobbs3
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Posts posted by charles_stobbs3
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I was thinking of dust coming under the door and from various cracks in the walls and ceiling and wherever else the makeup air is coming from when an exhaust fan is running.
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Why you shouldn't put an exhaust fan in a darkroom.
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I recently realized that at least some of the pictures displayed are not of the actual sales item but apparently cribbed from the internet. If a product has been upgraded or downgraded by the manufacturer during the production the serial number may be a clue as to the year when it was produced and what features you can expect.
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I prefer western Massachusetts (as willim Kahn shows above) the Connecticut River valley northwards to the White and Green Mountains, taking back roads. Have a good trip.
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As far as subject matter and composition are concerned, you can study photographs, paintings calendar photos and see what appeals to you. Also you should learn the characteristics of your particular camera (and film, if used). Keep taking photos and look at several times over a period of a week or so. Hope this helps.
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You can google foliage reports and see how it is developing this year. The timing if your vacation might better match one or the other. Besides there's always next year for the other.
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The C35EF3 runs on AA batteries, easily available, an added bonus.
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I have a C35MF which I took on a trip to Italy some years ago. I took it on a trip to Italy with 5 rolls of Elite Chrome. It worked fine but I was always apprehensive about so much automation so I bought a C35EF3 which has a 35mm Hexanon, auto exposure but manual focus and winding. There are 3 scales on the lens, feet, meters, and zone, The camera is very compact and came with a small case with a belt clip. It also came in several colors (who wants to be seen with a black camera?). This will be my first choice when I start to use up some of the Elite Chrome still in the freezer.
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I noticed that different lens manufacturers disagree on depth of field for lenses of the same focal length and aperture. Not surprising because depth of field refers to the observers tolerance for blur. I think Leica tables are more conservative than most and for a belt and suspenders approach I would close down one more stop than they recommend. However camera shake comes into play as well and I try never to use longer than 1/200 sec The old Olympus Trip 35 produced consistently sharp pictures because it had a fixed 1/200 shutter speed (when not on flash).
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I sent there days in Aarhus once but I was sick in bed with shingles and only saw the emergency room, an opthamologist's office, a pharmacy and a B&B so I'm no help.
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A good 35mm camera with a fixed 28mm lens is the Konica Off Road. Made for a construction workers toolbox, these cameras have a rugged body and have auto exposure and focus. Konica has a reputation for good lenses and mine did not disappoint. There were several versions over the years of its production. Good for hiking and skiing.
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Erko, I just gave away a 1947 Raleigh Sport, I am aging faster than the bike nd didi not feel safe riding it any longer. But those three speeds are the best. Something looks odd about your front wheel spoke lacing. Or maybe my eyes are aging also.
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To reseal pin holes I just stick a pin (what else?) down through the hole, put a blob of RTV on the tip and then slowly pull the pin out. Let cure.
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If you can wait until w're ready to pass summer down to you a magnifying glass in the hot sun will allow you to focus heat to a smaller spot; thus avoiding overheating the bellows.
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Black silicone rubber (RTV) has worked well for me. Apply, leave bellows open for several days to let the silicone cure and leave the camera back open to air out fumes.
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I think that the Kodak Retina (and maybe the others) did not swap the whole lens but only the front element(s) to obtain the various lens types and the shutter was between the fixed rear elements and the swappable front elements. Thus the rear element to film distance was the same for all options and the same focussing scale was used for all options. Probably a difficult optical design problem.
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If you scroll down this - KONICA C35 Œn•ˆ - list you will see there are many different Konica C35's ansi'm not sure how many different shutters may be involved. Someone may have specific info on your version.
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I shot mostly Kodachrome in my film days and scanned those shots that I wanted to transfer to the computer to email to friends or to Photonet. Still have my Canoscan 8800F to scan old slides once in a while. I stopped using a slide projector/screen years ago, preferring to use a good hand held slide viewer which I find a much pleasanter viewing experience. Digital is much easier and quicker and I need to get a tablet to replicate the viewing experience.
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I fooled around with various roll film cameras but after I bought my first 35mm camera and discovered Kodachrome I was hooked. As their slogan said, you click the shutter and Kodak did the rest. The only post processing was deciding which Kodak facility to mail it to. Now that digital is here a little sharpening is all I do. Lazy straight photography?
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Thank you Sandy
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I have a hard time remembering that far back but it seems to me now that the good teachers got me interested in a subject that I was ignorant of and spurred me to listen to what they had to say and dig into the text books.
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My personal inclination would be only the GR. Use it when it is appropriate and otherwise just enjoy the sights.
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I have a photo in my portfolio, "Ferry to Portland" taken with a C35AF3 but I don't know how to get into this post. At one point the camera jammed and I took out enough screws to split it in half. Didn't see anything wrong but when I reassembled it, it was fine again for a few rolls. Now it's jammed again until I have time to split it again. But it taught me to trust the concept of an automatic camera in theory.
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My wife opts for Alisa instead f our stereo system.
Wednesday Landscapes, 20 September 2017
in Landscape
Posted