Matthew Currie

I don't know how all models work, but on my D3200 and other low end models there is no T setting, only B. When you use the infrared remote, the B becomes T, with the first press opening the shutter and the second closing it. On the D3200 back button focus is disabled with the remote, so for fireworks you needto switch to manual.

Nope, I get a login option to use facebook, but must, it seems, log in to something. No facebook here. It is possible there is difference because I'm away from home and using an old Android tablet and on this I also have no Google ID.

Just amplifying a bit, I've had a few cameras apart, including a water damaged Nikon F, and that latter,though rather primitive and roomy inside compared with newer gear, was beautifully made, every part polished and smooth, gears meticulously milled, tiny ball bearings, etc. The craftsmanship goes deep.

On this lens it should just slide into position when the aperture ring is in its min. position. If aperture is not at minimum camera will return fEE error, but does not require locking the switch. It works ok on my D7100, so my guess is a problem with AF motor engagement, or AF motor itself. When you try to autofocus is there any sound? Make sure it is mounted all the way etc. and contacts clean. The decision to engage the focus motor is made by electronic contact.

No login? Doesn't seem to work unless you're a member of something.

And a house sparrow enjoying a nice fresh puddle bath at Ottenby light in Oland. All three D7100 one and two 16-80 and three 70-300 AFP

A Swedish swan aiming at the sun...

Meanwhile going through the excessive quantity of shots from a recent trip to Scandinavia and Finland, we have, distant cranes flying over Ekatorps Castle

Floats float on their reflections.... D7100, 16-80 DX lens, Alexander cropped to a faretheewell.

Poor Tsar Alexander has a perennial problem.

Just back from a trip to Baltics, slightly re-routed by politics. Pride day in Helsinki..

Helsinki

It's hard not to put the Nikon F at the top of just about any list. I'm a lifelong fanboy of the mighty F. Like many, I tend toward things I've actually had, and would add as close seconds, the F4, a great unbeautiful hulking beast that did just about everything better than anything else in its day, and is still pretty darned good; your choice of Barnack Leicas (mine, a IIIb, working perfectly after about 85 years without service); the Olympus XA (and its variants, especially the XA2), good pictures and you can literally run over one with your car; and a random dip into the Minolta bin for general good behavior, good lenses, and metering that always seems just a little better than everyone else's.

Adding to Ed Ingold's remark about lips on the plate, I would add that the depth of the recess you put in need not be great at all. If it's a millimeter, it's enough to hold a plate from rotating without having to hire a gorilla to tighten the screw. If you have any kind of milling capability, including just a good file and a little patience, any plate that overlaps any edge of a camera or lens can be modified.

I have the AFD version of this lens and it does not behave this way. I suspect an internal problem. Given the likely cost of repair, though, I would second the idea of finding if it does work ok in some mode, as well as making sure all contacts are good, and maybe resign to using it as is if possible.

One other thing to remember is that there is no lock on the rear control as there is on the d7100. Iwas constantly bumping it on the d3200, and had to get in the habit of hitting the ok button to avoid metering and focusing on the sky.

I've always "rolled my own," but aside from having a good reputation for doing the conversions right, John White also has a nice table of information telling just what cameras need what conversions, including the "type B" to prevent damage to older minimum aperture switches. On what cameras can handle an unconverted pre-AI lens, he is right and Nikon is not.

If you're trying full manual, don't forget the fractional power settings in the menu. You get a lot of range there.

Here in Vermont we raise organic free range serrated razor blades.

It looks as if spring has really come. The bees are back. D7100 with 200/4Q on extension tubes

Spring still lurking but not exactly bursting.... This is the old Nikkor 135/2.8 Q on a D7100

Not on the D7100, at least. P mode simply provides the range of speed and aperture settings that satisfy the EV, happily assigning slow shutter speeds to long lenses. P mode alone does not seem to register focal length at all, and it does not respond to VR switching. You can set an "Auto" shutter speed option in the Auto ISO menu, and this will tie the Auto ISO minimum shutter speed to focal length. So, when P or A mode reaches that shutter speed, it stops and Auto ISO takes over as long as it can. The Auto shutter speed setting in Auto ISO varies not only with the lens but with zoom lens changes. It also does not recognize VR, but you can customize it to some degree to faster or slower speeds. I haven't played with this much but it looks as if the center position is at about 1.5 times focal length, with two steps up and two down, each step about a stop. That's a cursory look only, so don't trust those numbers too far. Although I enjoy a certain degree of nerdiness and have a fondness for instruction manuals, in real life I'm more in line with Rodeo Joe, and handle many features by not using them.

I played around a bit with my D7100. Adding a bit to various things above, if you are in P mode with Auto ISO also on, and move from bright to dark, you can see more or less what happens. The relation between aperture and shutter speed remains a bit hard to follow, but it appears the camera first changes apertures or a combination of aperture and speed, continuing with shutter speeds down to the minimum you have set in the Auto ISO menu. Only when it hits that minimum will it begin to raise ISO. If it hits the maximum ISO set in the menu, it will then override the shutter speed minimum. The minimum shutter speed set for Auto ISO is not absolute, but the maximum ISO is, and the camera will not go above it even with the lens cap on. When aperture and ISO are exhausted, the shutter speed will go down to about 5 seconds, after which it gives up. This latter limitation appears to be connected with Auto ISO rather than program mode. With manual ISO, shutter speed will drop further.

Check the manual for "flexible program." I'm pretty sure this exists on the D7000, as it certainly does on the D7100 and the D3200. Or just go out and try it. In P mode, if you rotate the rear wheel, it will cycle through all the shutter/aperture combinations that your current ISO allows for that exposure value. It does not change the EV the meter determines. If your camera is set up normally, going left will slow down the shutter and close down the lens, and going right will speed up the shutter and open up the lens. If none of those combinations suits you, change the ISO and try again. e.t.a. your resetting with flexible program will be undone and revert to the default when you switch out of P mode, or turn the camera off. Although I don't use this mode, it works pretty well, especially if you have "easy ISO" enabled. In this case, the rear wheel controls the flexible program and the front controls ISO. I don't find P mode the most intuitive way to get the settings I want, but set up this way, if you're trusting the meter, it gets you all the settings possible.

I am guessing high ISO, since the program usually defaults to larger apertures until the shutter speed increases. On page 298 of the user manual is a chart showing how the program works on a 50/1.8 lens at ISO 100. The aperture closes down as the shutter speed increases. If you are using a high iso in bright light, the shutter speed will tend to be higher, and the aperture smaller. And don't forget that "flexible" program allows you to use the rear wheel to favor shutter speed or aperture, within the range of correct exposure. Just to be sure, I did switch my D7100 to P mode, and at least indoors, pointed to things like computer screens and lamps, it still tends toward the larger apertures at normal ISO.