steve_johnston4
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Posts posted by steve_johnston4
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<p>Very interesting thanks.</p>
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<p>It is Christmas! I think there are more scanners in the world than there are scanners. Last week I mailed a box of exposed 8x10 Ektar to be developed. Just after I dropped it off at the postoffice, I learned that Kodak had filed for Chp 11. </p>
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<p>I use an Epson Perfection v750 Pro scanner for MF up to 8x10 b&w and color negs and transparencies. Works great. I have two. Only need one. Will sell for $450+shipping.</p>
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<p>I have been using an RH Phillips Explorer 8x10. It is lightweight, rugged and sturdy. For me, that is where "light weight" ends. To get good glass, that covers the movements, I use a Rodenstock Apo Sironar W 210, Schnieder Apo Symmar 360, and a Nikkor M 450. I get as close as I can in a 4x4 Jeep. Strap the case, tripod, and film holders onto a dolly, and haul it the rest of the way. Standing six feet in front of a 36x48 landscape, with incredible detail and dynamic range, makes it all worth it. </p>
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<p>Sorry I am just getting back to you all. I am located in the middle of the US, Kansas City. Thanks.</p>
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<p>I would very much appreciate recomendations for companies processing 8x10 sheet film in either C-41 or E-6. Thanks!</p>
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<p>Thanks guys! So far, I have tried the Nik Color Efex Pro 4.0 with some interesting outcomes. I use PSE-6, and have PSE-9 ready to load. I will try the other ideas as well. </p>
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<p>I use Nik, Silver Effects Pro for b&w work. I like the "Structure" function to add dymanics to the image. Is there a plugin that would work with PSE, that would do the same to a color image? Thanks.</p>
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<p>Nik HDR will not work as a pluggin for PSE. Nik says that their HDR will work stand alone. Although, I have not tried it yet.</p>
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<p>Thanks very much everyone! You have given me much to work on.</p>
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<p>In plain language, 8th grade grammer appreciated, how do I get the print out of an Epson 3800 to match the Dell LCD monitor all hooked up to a Dell pc using PSE 6.0 on XP Pro OS? Many thanks in advance!</p>
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<p>I use Pan F+ 120 with Xtol 1-1 in a JOBO processor. Works great. Good tonal range. Low grain. </p>
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<p>I did that for my 3800 recently. I down loaded the software to the desktop before connecting the printer. Then I installed the sofware according to the prompts. Then, if I remember right, I plugged in and connected the printer to the computer, either when the prompt told me to or when the software had totally installed. Also, there is more than one possible download. I would ask Epson which one to luse based on your equipment. Good luck. </p>
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<p>I did that for my 3800 recently. I down loaded the software to the desktop before connecting the printer. Then I installed the sofware according to the prompts. Then, if I remember right, I plugged in and connected the printer to the computer, either when the prompt told me to or when the software had totally installed. Also, there is more than one possible download. I would ask Epson which one to luse based on your equipment. Good luck. </p>
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<p>Thanks fellows. I tried to "tone" the file in the printer software as you all suggested. However, I want this process to tone the image file so I can display a toned image on line on my website. How does one tone the file in printer mode, then save it on the hard drive?</p>
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<p>Chas, yes I have viewed two or three of their videos. I downloaded a trial version of SilverEfex Pro. The software buttons are turned off for any puer-non converted color grayscale files. I just scanned a b&w neg using CMYK instead of grayscale. Then converted to RGB. Now at least the Photo Filter works. I unistalled the NIK software earlier, thinking that something may be wrong with it. I now think that it is possible that toning a pure grayscale file is not possible because no color channels are present.</p>
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<p>I am embarrassed to ask this question. It is only after many tries myself and no help from Nik Software support. In PSE 6, how do you add tone, ie selenium, warm tone etc., to a file made from a scanned black and white neg in TIFF format. I can get some things to work in a color file that was converted to b&w, but not from a "real" b&w file. Does it have something to do with the b&w file not having any RGB or CMYK? I can tone just fine, when I print it on an Epson 3800. But I need to have a nice warm or selenium tone on a file on my website. <a href="http://www.goldenlightphotographic.com">www.goldenlightphotographic.com</a> Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
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<p>I love film. I have learned to like digital. It lets me multi-task. Regarding Kodak; they are a large corporation. A Corporation is a body without a soul. Give the natural law of supply and demand time to work this all out.</p>
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<p>I use Xtol with Pan F+ 120,deveoped in a Jobo rotary processor, scanned on a 10 year old Imacom film scanner at 3200ppi. Using an Epson 3800, 16x20 prints on glossy paper look great and no grain. To get a long tonal range, I develop for a slightly flat neg and scan as such. Then in PSE adjust the levels and channels to get what I want. I can predict that TMY would be similar.</p>
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<p>I have noticed Flextights going for more money on Ebay.</p>
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<p>I have PSE 4, 6, and 8. I do not notice much difference in any of them. What are the main differences?</p>
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<p>Curious to know why a Llamda or digital print will not work.</p>
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<p>Tim, I am sure that drum scanning will out perform the 750. You might find it to be overkill, depending on your needs for detail. I use a jobo cpp-2 processor and Xtol developer. I also use medium format camera for work that requires more mobility. For that I scan with a 10 year old Imacon Flextight Photo scanner. Using Pan F+, I can get very acceptable 16x20 prints.</p>
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<p>I shoot 8x10 Tri-X, scan on an Epson Perfection v750 pro, then print 16x20 on an Epson 3800 with excellent results from a variety of papers.</p>
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