steve_johnston4
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Posts posted by steve_johnston4
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<p>Several years ago I shot a comparison test roll for Contax, Nikon and Leica each with their 35mm f2.8 lens. Ten shots each on 36 roll Ektachrome. All of the same 10 low-mid-and high contrast landscapes. I compared the frames on a Leica slide projector at about 24x36 on a neutral silver screen. They were all very comparable and adequate. I forced myself to pick one or two that were at least very slightly better than the rest. They were both Contax. After that test I went straight Nikon for 35mm and have not looked back. The F100 is the one body that I have used the most. It is so flexible and compatible, it's almost boring. Just get the premium Nikkor lenses.</p>
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<p>If you would like to have the camera and finder serviced/restored to work nearly like new, send it to Sover Wong in the UK. Website is; http://www.soverf2repair.webs.com/</p>
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<p>Very interesting. I have been using a D800E since it came out. I usually shoot at 100 ISO RAW or TIFF. Print at 360ppi/dpi up to 24x36, with excellent detail. If I were to shoot at say 1200 iso, would I see noise?</p>
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<p>I guess I'll weigh in on this as well. I used a Flextight for 10 years. SCSI was a nightmare to get running, then it was very sweet. Since then, I have used a v750 on 6x4.5 and 6x6 negs, with good results up to 24x30 print size.</p>
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<p>I could not find any links to it on their site.</p>
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<p>I guess I have been asleep under a bridge for the past couple of years, since I downloaded PSE11. I just went on adobe.com and all I could find was Creative Cloud promo. Is buying PSE software no longer available? Is PSE 11 support gone?? Will my PSE 11 software automatically self-destruct someday??? </p>
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<p>This discussion gives me a flash back to 10 years ago shooting with a D200. The card crashed in the middle of the shoot. I had to start over and re-shoot on a different card. Next day, I went into my long time photo supply store complaining about the crash. I said, "give me something that is fast and won't crash." They gave me a box of TRI-X.</p>
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<p>Very helpful link Don. Thanks very much!</p>
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<p>Oops! I meant that I saw a video of canvas being loaded via the rear loader of an Epson 3880 model. Will that work on a 3800 model? Sorry</p>
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<p>I have been loading canvas on my Epson Stylus Pro 3800 from the front. It's a pain and I have to guide the canvas out the front using a pallet knife to keep it from hanging up and destroying the printer. I saw a video showing canvas being loaded via the rear loader, much like paper. Will that work on a 3800 model?? Thanks.</p>
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<p>Makes me glad I got the 800E in the first roll-out. So far so good. My medium format has been sitting on the shelf June 2012.</p>
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<p>I need to correct my F2's viewfinder to match my failing eyesight. I use glasses to correct close up reading. The strength number needed is +200. What correction diopter for a Nikon F2 should I use to see clearly and focus correctly? Thanks. </p>
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<p>In answer to your questions: #1. not a problem with my 800E received in June 2012. The rest of the questions?? The D800E I own is the best and most universal leap in technology I have ever witnessed. I have essentially retired my medium format gear. Questions 2 thru whatever: It's a small price to pay for a great camera! </p>
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<p>I have been using the NIK plug-ins for the past couple of years. Has the software been upgraded recently?</p>
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<p>I dumped my Hassy long ago for a Contax 645. Still happy with my decision. </p>
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<p>I have used a Contax 645 since the late 90's. I love the system. It replaced my Bladd system because it is easier to operate, and with excellent results. Get a "bare bones body" or two for parts. If you want to go digital, get a good 35+MP back. I am still upset with Kyosera for punting on such a good system.</p>
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<p>I think I have found my problem; sloppy alignment of each photo and not enough overlap. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Sorry. This is the first time I have used the Photomerge function on PSE 11. Using a d800e with 20-35 f2.8 nikkor, I shot four different series of two to three 8-bit JPEGs the same as I have done using other stitching software. The frames were shot both standing in one place right to left and left to right and then moving straight from right to left. The frames overlapped approximately 10-20%. Just let me know what else would be helpful to know. Thanks.</p>
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<p>I keep getting a "Script Error", a panorama could not be created as some images could not be aligned". I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Thanks Howard. I have used both and am not a fan of either. Maybe I need more practice, or counseling.</p>
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<p>Hello! I am about to start using my Epson Precision 750v Pro again, after not using it for a few years. I just downloaded new Epson software that for a simple reflective scan seemed to work easy enough. My question is, what other software is now, or still, available that is particularly good for film? Thanks!</p>
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<p>Thanks very much everyone. I should be able to figure it out now. Happy shooting!</p>
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<p>Thanks very much for your answers. I just thought of something. On the built-in diopters on the D200 and D800, I crank up the correction at or close to the highest setting. How might that equate to the f2 and f3 diopter strengths? </p>
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<p>I am in need of diopters for my F2AS and F3HP. I have found through some searching that the two are different in size. What I have not found is what the various corrective numbers equate to in glasses correction. ie +1,2,3 etc. Is +1 diopter equivalent to +1.25 glasses etc? Thanks.</p>
Epson Stylus Pro 3800 in dry dock
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted